forteh

Internal floating piston, it's a standard design for separating gas and oil in shocks and forks. Typically used to allow displacement of hydraulic fluid by a damper rod. Normally pressurised with nitrogen on the gas side in shocks which is why shock damper servicing is not normally a home job. They're not complicated compared to some forks and shocks, the ifp whilst adding a layer of complexity lowers weight and is a conveniently packaged solution, it's just taken sram 4 years to get it working reliably

So it would appear that getting hold of an A1 full service kit is a bit of a faff right now, spoke to TFT and they have the A2 in stock but that's no good for the A1. They've done me a basic service kit with the upgraded IFP for 15 quid which is a lot cheaper than the 50+ quid it would be for the full kit. It won't have the replacement DU bushes or the brass keys, if the bottom DU bush is fubar I measure and source a new one for a quid or so (or make one from delrin) and if the keys are worn significantly I machine some new ones at work

Isn't it a case of resetting and bleeding the IFP? Nothing complicated in a reverb and there's no nitrogen charge needed. The tools are freely available to do so and there are guides on how to do it

Spoke too f**king soon ..... Went for a quick bimble over cannock chase this morning (first ride since the Brecon Beast back in september ), so spent a little time fettling the bike last night. Now my reverb has had a slightly aerated ifp for a while and just sagged a little, nothing major to complain about; it had started sagging a little more so I checked the pressure on it and whoops, it only had 75psi in it as opposed the 250 it's meant to! Pumped it up and it back to only a few mm movement - Great. Nice frosty -2 start (fortunately for christmans the wife got me some under armour coldgear compression tights for rugby training with the Lichfield U7s - thoroughly impressed with them, expensive but work well and got no cramps despite pushing quite hard with no warm up) and within 200 yards the post had magically dumped all of it's air. Quick pump up and away we went, it held for close to another 3 miles before failing again at which point I slammed the dropper an raised it up out the frame as much as possible. As stated above, it's 4 years old now and never been serviced so I figured I should do so, being a tight arse I would rather service it myself so I get to learn how to do it and avoid the 85 quid for someone else to do so. I'm going to presume that I need the full service kit (that includes the updated IFP) and the lower DU bush; who knows where is cheapest to get it from and whill it definitely include the lastest IFP? Are the service kits universal across all non-stealth reverbs? I will probably invest in the correct tooling for bleeding and setting the IFP, it's not much more than a tenner from CRC and it takes some of the guesswork and hassle out of the job. Beers in advance

I wear my shimano mt51s all the time (funnily enough being clipped) and they're superb, comfy enough for all day rides, can walk and drive in them fine. Not waterproof at all but with a pair of merino wool socks that isn't too much of an issue unless it's really inclement - for that there's sealskinz. I've not used the shimano flat shoes myself but give the quality of my boots I wouldn't hesitate to try some out for flat pedal use. Jacket wise I have an endura convertable jacket/gilet thingy, the arms zip off and stash in a back pocket, it rolls up small enough to just about fit into the bungee strap on my tiny camelbak (the one I don't use anymore because it has space for car keys and aphone and that's about it!). It's windproof, waterproof and keeps you nice and warm as long as you're not stood still for too long.

Only on a thursday

Dann84893020574867's pedalbox

I built a couple of machines with almost the exact same spec (used 4770k to overclock) for solidworks at work a couple of years ago, they were just shy of £700 each without a gpu. I reckon you could get around £500 ish on eBay but it might be completely different market in nz. You would get more money if it were the 4770k as there is far more demand with the extended usability of an overclockable processor. As JT pointed out, tech prices have come down dramatically in the last few years.

I would say that the gunk is just dried loctite. Easy to get the pulley off though, get a steel plate with two holes in to suit the diametrically opposite tapped holes, chuck a spacer into the pulley (a socket will do) and use a couple of set pins in the threaded holes to draw the pulley off the shaft; as it comes off, add washers between the spacer and the plate to take up the slack. If it were wobbling on a worn keyway / shaft / pulley I would expect it to be able to be pulled off by hand.

They're only 350 quid new :-) Silly religious zealot murican!

That is long, heavy and very stable in the air, it was reasonably lightweight when I bought it back in 2004 but things have changed significantly since. If you had a go on a short frame it would feel really odd with you being so lanky, mine is 21" top tube and whilst really stable I do struggle to spin it a little being a shortarse

The fact it's self whittled makes it that much more of a treasure for you doesn't it Luke?

So Reuben has been invited to a 7th birthday party tomorrow morning by one of the lads from the rugby club. It's a group bmx session at a local club, like a good dutiful stepdad I've dug my bmx out to join in (if they let me!) Bmx tracks scare the shite out of me, let's hope I don't stack it too hard edit: didn't bin it, a couple of close calls even I was pushing a little too fast for my 12 year old bald tyres! Reuben binned it loads but also progressed loads, good job he had a full face lid, knee and elbow pads. I even managed to get the rhythm right and built enough speed to jump some of the smaller doubles

Camshaft bearing cap shell or are they plain aluminium journal with pressurised oil feed?

Might watch it tonight with the wife

dann8489239272873 in drunkposting™ at work shocker!

I can ask, do you have the design in dxf already?

I heard he brought a bag of splatter to go with the welder Tig is still so much nicer, no noise, no splatter (sic) and sexier welds!

It also smells like shite

Factory foreman at work has agreed to let me loose on 'his' lathe* so I can machine myself a new rebound piston and midvalve arbor for my damper cartridge. I've not used a lathe in anger in nearly 20 years so should be fun *he's been a machinist at work since he was 16, he retires next year. He is the only person to have used that particular lathe in the last 15 years or so

Nowt wrong with square taper burns, run them on my triton and on the intense Ok so I'm not particularly heavy so I perhaps don't notice bottom bracket flex so much

IIRC there's the Mk1 type A (silver seal head collar), Mk1 type B (black seal head collar), then there have been a couple of iterations of the Mk2 with revisions to the ifp as Brad pointed out. Then of course you have the stealth vs external routing. I have an external Mk1B and other than a leak past the ifp has been great. Recently I thought the seal head bush had died as it was getting a bit sticky, undoing it, liberally applying sram butter to the DU bush and wiper before tightening it back down has made a big difference - unsuprising considering it's 4 years old now and that's the only maintenance I've carried out. At some point I will open it up and reset the ifp, imho it's not worth the 85 quid to pay someone else to do it when the seal kit is a tenner!

Me? Im old, have a bmx Cant claim to be the profile though :(

Now forgive me if I'm wrong, but isn't that bit fitted incorrectly?

I don't get why people are having their reverb posts fail? Mine is 4 years old now, no service yet and no major issues. A little air has leaked by the ifp causing it to sag by a couple of mm but that's a pretty easy fix. That said there are a lot of reputedly very reliable droppers out there now.