forteh

It's advisable to do so yes but not required to mount the tyre, tubeless ready tyres have porous sidewalls which will only hold air for a short while. A UST rim profile makes a huge difference when trying to mount the tyres (UST tyre or not) because the bead shelf and hook holds bead much tighter and forms a better seal. When mounting my tyres I pull as much of the bead onto the shelf by hand as I can which means it takes about 4 pumps with the trackpump to initially inflate the tyre and then up to 25psi to blow it onto the bead shelf.

Might be worth giving pjme a ring to see if they can repair it. They welded up, machined replated and honed my 636 rotax motor after the oil pump had failed and twisted the piston in the bore. It cost 193 to do the whole lot including rebuilding and balancing the crank, took a while but well worth the wait! https://www.pjme.co.uk/ Good luck

Gorilla tape for the rim strip (make a jig to cut it to the external width of the rim) and a decent sealant, personally I use oko magic milk and it's worked as advertised. UST labelled tyres are heavier than tubeless ready but hold air without sealant when used with a UST rim, tubeless ready are much lighter but require sealant to hold air in the porous sidewalls. UST rims + tyres do not require sealant or tape but come with a price premium. I sealed up non tubeless ready tyres on d521s without too much effort, biggest issue is having a compressor that can blow the tyre onto the rim bead to form a seal ; with UST compliant rims (wtb TCS for example) you can do it with a track pump no problems. The difference to the ride is pronounced, you can lose pressure to increase grip without increasing rolling resistance. Work on your riding weight in pounds divided by 7 less 1 or 2 front, plus 1 or 2 rear for the pressures; my riding weight of 165lb gives 22f/25r which works pretty spot on. You have to get used to the occasional spadoing noise when the tyre rebounds off a root though.

I like that, reminds me of the internal spaces on military planes

People are stupid enough to pay more for a different colour? Take their f**king money! Presume it's a coloured film applied behind the glass panels? Are iphones still glass panelled?

Another update on my marzocchi pheonix forks Got the two replacement components machined, did a dry assembly run and all went together pretty smoothly. Assembled the damper with a guessed shim stack, glued the bottom bung in and left it overnight to cure, rebuilt the forks next day filled with oil and something wasnt quite right because there was no compression damping at all; I think I had made the shim stack far too stiff and it was blowing the oil past the glide rings on the compression and rebound groups. Stripped it all down again, took the shims out to rebuild it as the original marzocchi poppet valve (which to be fair is far from bad) glued the bung in and stuck it under a heat lamp to speed up the cure. Reassembled the forks again, put them on the bike, a couple of quick bounces later the glue comes unstuck the cartrigde dismantles in the forks and its back to stripping again! Decide to revisit the design whereby the plug is glued into the bottom of the damper body, the cartridge is only 1mm thick aluminium tube so no way to cut a thread onto it, the only possibility is to glue a threaded sleeve to the bottom and thread the outside of the plug. On investigation of tooling at work we have no M20 fine pitch taps or dies, manage to find some on ebay for 20 quid and get a brass threaded collar machined and bonded onto the cartridge body. I threaded the outside diameter of the plug and hey presto a quickly serviceable compression damper group. Assemble the forks (again with the poppet valve set up) as a test, there is a fair amount of initial stiction that shouldnt be there and there is oil weeping from the bottom of the compresison adjuster. Back to pieces again, replaced a chewed up o-ring on the compresison adjuster and discovered that the stiction is because the cartridge is no longer sitting concentric to the stanchion tubes and is pushing the damper rod at an angle - going to destroy the damper rod and top glide bushing in addition to making the very top of the stroke (the bit where you want zero stickiness) really sticky. After much deliberation I realised that I must have bonded the threaded collar on at a slight angle resulting in the slanted cartridge, cue a little (actually quite a lot) of tactical filing of the bottom plug and its now concentric again with zero stiction Whilst it was apart I revisited the shim stack, working on a known base point I would assemble the cartrigde into the lower legs, fill with oil and pump the damper rod by hand whilst playing with the compression adjuster to see how the shims were affecting the stroke. After 3-4 iterations I got a shim stack that gave noticeable low speed compression damping but still opened up with faster movements. Put it all back together again with fresh oil and ride it to work next day (seeing as I finished cleaning the oil from the dining room floor at 2am!); the forks feel nicely composed, loads of support at the top of the stoke with very little pedal induced movement unless honking on the bars, small bumps dissapear completely. If I remember correctly the shim stack is 15x0.15 - 15x0.2 - 8x0.2 - 14x0.2 - 12x0.2 - 11x0.2 - 10x0.15 clamped up with an 8mm clamp. Just been out for a couple of miles including a short section round the local nature reserve and woods and the fork just works. Thrashing down 20+ steep sleeper edged steps (with eroded dirt tops so not a smooth roll off) felt like rolling off a kerb, lots of successive high speed impacts just dissapeared and at no point did it feel overwhelmed. Impacts when cornering were sucked up and flattened with no deviation from the front wheel, just tracking where it was pointed. Hucking a bunnyhop to flat off a 2 foot high bank (I know it is hardly big!) resulted in about 75% fork travel so high speed compression damping seems to be pretty good in that respect, need a touch more on the rear shock though I think. Climbing hard on the pedals out of the saddle and over the bars gives about 2" of fork bob, I think I will add another 14x0.15 shim to the back of the low speed compression stack to see if that will quell the standing pedal bob a little without sacrificing the small bump compliance. All in all super pleased with how the fork is working for the moment and glad that I have invested the time and effort to rebuild it! TL:DR my forks are back together and better than they were because I fixed them edit: just got back from a quick lap of cannock chase, the fork is sublime. Rides high in the travel, completely flattens trail chatter, opens up like a trapdoor when something big comes through and recovers instantly for the next hit; the worst of cannocks braking bumps were simply ploughed through as if they were flat. Launching off jumps gives a lovely controlled landing, zero impact just a composed dissipation of energy; last time I rode was with the tst micro cartridge and in comparison to the shim stack it is diabolically bad off the same jumps. To say that Im pleased is a massive understatement, the fact that the forks are performing so well on first attempt makes it all the better

A guy at work just lost 500 quid through lowcost due to no hotels, paid by debit card so it's unlikely he'll get it back. On holiday front we've bought a Ø5m canvas bell tent, been camping a couple of times in the last month and it's far nicer than a plastic tent. Bought a ghillie kettle and trangia for hot water/cooking duties and planning on making a self contained firepit/barbeque to take with us Off again in a fortnight

My bar end anecdote was the result of 3" of flesh apple cored from my groin, I did have plastic bar ends and would have died there and then without them. When they stitched the hole up they could see the femoral artery within a few mm of the bottom of the tunnel. Very lucky to have suffered no major long term damage!

Tom Booth on 10101 posts and he wastes it poking fun at dannnn366435311598 75 5457885. Worth it I reckon

Alternator belt snapped this morning on the way to work, local ford guy I normally used is too busy to squeeze it in as a foreigner, local halfords autocentre couldn't get onto it tomorrow but couldn't give a price, local ats refused to even quote saying it was outside of their skillset Looked at it at lunchtime with one of the welders (who does a fair amount of his own car work) and within 10 minutes got the tensioner backed off and pinned in place ready to put a new belt on. Went to halfords (2 minute walk from work) and a new belt is 15 quid and delivered in a couple of hours Much easier to change than the one on my old focus, only got three pulleys and the tensioner to worry about.

You still baffle me You ought to chuck this up on pinkbike and wait for the cries of coaster brake!

Why is that difficult? Nut splitter and job's a good un.

We have an l200 at work and it's horrible to drive, so boaty and likes to go sideways at least provocation in the damp. It's a twin cab so load space is not great although you can sling a bike in the back no problems edit: it's an 11 plate on 76k and has been reliable to the best of my knowledge, pretty shite on fuel though.

Google normally syncs your photos to google drive unless you've specificalyl told it not to

True, it's an mpv for those in denial that they need an mpv Paul doens't need an mpv but he wants a larger more practical vehicle, the s-max gives you space, comfort and economy - he has the porsche for shits and giggles.

Ford Smax, drives really well, pokey(ish*), economical(ish**), loads of room, loads of seats, very comfy Perhaps not that cool but really practical, I paid 3.5k for my 56 plate titanium. * 2.0 tdci is 140bhp but for some reason they seemed to come from ford with more, some have been reported to be almost 155 stock. ** I get slightly better than fords suggested mpg figures, 42 pottering around town and 52 on the motorway, I do drive sensibly though. edit: load space is massive with the rear seats flat, full 6 foot long and flat so can sleep in it if need be.

I only ever bid with <20 seconds to go, generally I win most auctions I really want to

My old 1.25 Zetec fiesta had keyless cam pulleys, changed the belt without the Ford tools no problem, well apart from forgetting to torque up the crank pulley 3 pistons dented, 5 valves decapitated and 9 valves bent!

Spent a week in somerset end of may, ate cheese, drank scrumpy, got away from it all for a few days :-) Got a long weekend camping in our bell tent end of July but nothing else planned.

3/10 Must try harder!

Got to ask them the question on the warranty, if it fails, who foots the labour bill? Might be worth a shot, as long as part numbers tie up and they haven't just reboxed a cheap unit.

Didn't jardo have issues with techniclutch as well? That said, if it is indeed a sachs branded unit there shouldn't be quality issues? I'm assuming the above unit was a techniclutch own brand?

pfft i r just fick injuneeh not a ingleesh teetcha!

Don't leave the bog roll in there, wet tissue is not structually sound; you will have finger/poo interface!