forteh

Looks proper shit that does edit: had you considered slicing the rear corners off the dropouts to shave some more weight?

You can only buy the founders edition cards from scan as they're nvidias fullfillment partner for the UK, been watching the telegram alert bots for a couple of weeks now; just a case of when the stock alerts come out get one ordered immediately. I hit the buy button within 20 seconds of the notification and the 3070s were sold out by the time I put my card details in. Plenty of them about on facebook or ebay but scalpers are asking 900+ for a founders edition, the MSRP of them is 469 The founders editions don't have the low hash rate gubbins in them which means that they mine crypto at higher rates than all the other cards, unfortunately it's scalpers buying the cards cheap and then flogging them at 100% markup to cryptominers who will think nothing of throwing a grand at a gpu. I could immediately make almost 300 quid profit by selling it to cex, but I want the card not the cash

Finally bagged an RTX3070 gpu for MSRP rather than the 200% price gouging going on with anyone trying to make a quick buck and making the buying market intolerable for the people who want a gpu for the intended use of playing games. Entire uk stock of founders edition cards was out of stock within minutes Super pleased I've managed to grab one though, will make flying and driving in VR much prettier

Our MD has said that anyone in contact with covid has to go home until all clear. Ours came back from scout camp, clear on the Friday before and Monday after, positive by Tuesday. Youngest went down with fever for 48 hours from Tuesday, second youngest and wife tested positive Thursday. I tested positve on the following Monday. Bear in mind we made no attempt to keep it to ourselves within the house but also didn't leave the house. The eldest went to stop with her dad on the Thursday onwards of half term, she was testing daily and never came up positive but it did mean that the wasn't going to mess up her mocks by having to isolate. So I was in close proximity to positive cases and still took almost a week to display aany symptoms or positive test myself. Keep safe, it wasn't too bad for us all things being told.

There go our energy bills then...

Out of curiosity because I don't know, how does the vaccine lose efficiency? I was of the understanding that it prepped your immune system by giving it building blocks to fight the virus or do these building blocks degrade over time? Now that I've had covid and have built antibodies do those antibodies also degrade over time, I may well be wrong but I don't think that's how it works is it? Obviously if the virus mutates into a new strain then I may be susceptible to it and catch it again. If I catch covid again now will I even know? edit: done a little reading, it's like the cold virus in that the body does not produce permanent antibodies as it generally does for chickenpox. As such you can still reinfect with the virus but your body may have some residual antibodies.

We will get to Boris's herd immunity eventually. I'm double vaccinated, I caught covid last month and it wasn't all that bad. Can't categorically say that the vaccine helped or not but I should now be protected theoretically.

I'd phone them first, you can have a much better chat on the phone than pingpong emails back and forth. Ask to speak to someone who can advise on tuning/revalving a fox DPS for a svelte whippet like fellow and see what they say

That image had crossed my mind Bloody celebrity bike riders!

I know But you don't get to put the personal touches into it unless you build it yourself, it's the next logical step

@Ali C wait till you build yourself a campervan

Makes me feel better about my kitchen that I started in 2015, still not made the cupboard doors but it's all fully functioning and properly made (the bits that are!) edit: excuse the grubby floor, blame that on the Labrador!

I would speak to TF tuned and get them to revalve it to your weight, fox can only do so much with the limited shim stack in there to try to cover a massive range of rider weights. You need to increase the spring pressure to support the load but that can then take you outside of the damper range capacity. In something like a cane creek double barrel you have an enormous range of adjustment of 4 different damping circuits. My intense (which for all intents and purposes is the same suspension system as your frame) came with a fox rp23 and it constantly blew through the travel unless pumped up hard enough to take it outside of the sag envelope at which point the vpp works like ass. Fitted the ccdba which enabled me to balance the high speed compression damping with the spring rate and now I have a bike that pedals like a hardtail, I can't feel any bottom out and is active enough to deflect when riding over cracks in paving slabs Try getting the shock tuned first or at least chat to TFT and they will be able to suggest what your best options are.

We're looking at much less work than that fortunately, fit a new CU, shifting a couple of sockets in the kitchen and putting a few in the extension along with the lights. The rest of it is just checking it through for any gremlins hopefully

As daft as it sounds, a spot of cyanoacrylate might be enough on the spoke if you even need anything at all; the silversolder does give a lovely filleted finish once the flux is cleaned up though. Perhaps anneal and temper the stainless after soldering? The patent is quite an interesting read, I would hazard that they must have some sort of mechanical key for the CA to hold the spoke end in; could be a simple as a rolled thread, I guess it would key into the braid very freely. So how does the jig work? Must be some force to get the coil wrapped so tightly? edit: So they did look to use the finger trap to retain the spoke end but glued because you need less length (and associated weight).

What kind of f**king wizardry is that spoke jig! The results look like the videos you see of coil spring winding machines but obviously without the automation, very impressive repeatablilty though. Wonder if there is any HAZ from the soldering? I would suspect not but it would be interesting to see if an unsoldered behaved in the same manner. Do you know what load the spoke end snapped at?

Think our earths are solid green

Yeah, we've got red and black throughout, a fuse board and no consumer unit, well there is one but it's not connected to anything and the fuse board looks older... We're starting in the house extension in the next month or so and have earmarked a couple of grand from the budget to get the wiring checked over and renewed if needed. God knows how much needs doing or how much it's going to cost though!

Yup the silver soldering gives a far nicer finish and I'd warrant it's probably a stronger structure than welding such small section stainless. Also gives you a more useable flat to grip with a spanner that you'll naturally make I think the deburring on the berd spokes is because the hub holes need to be opened out to get the full splice through, I would have thought that the default j bend spoke hole chamfer might be enough.

Where's your sense of adventure young Thomas? Perhaps mask stove enamel the forks but mask off the droputs and clearcoat them so you can see any crack propegation?

I think powdercoating will give a more ductile coating and less liable to crack if the substrate cracks, personally I would go with a stove enammelling, it's more brittle and also would be period correct for the forks

Yeah, obviously berd are doing it because they can't let the customer do the splice, it would be like selling a kit of tubes and a tig welder instead of a frame Are you still having to add the extra chamfer/deburr to the hub if you're not having to push the full spliced head through the spoke hole? I think the methacrylate with a keyed spoke and a heatshrink wrap will work quite nicely. If you're not familiar with methacrylate, think of it as 2 part epoxy superglue paste, working time is very short and it cures hard enough to machine if need be.

Surely wouldn't it be simpler to not have to splice the spoke directly to the hub or is it not that much more fiddly for a one off? Admittedly it does look far, far nicer than the dogbone bits that berd use (I think they just use a length of dyneema soaked in a cyanoacrylate to make it ridgid).

Shouldn't be too hard to knock up a jig to get them all the same length if you're bonding them in. Just put the spliced end over a peg and have the nipple set in a clamp to set the length. Working out how much shorter to make them to allow for the additional stretch might take some time though.

Could replace the glass with a sheet of polycarb for child safety should it fall off the wall?