nmt_oli

James- 101.8 hp you tell me- not bad. I wonder how mine will compare with the GTI cam, was that at Tom Airy? dunno how compareable our figures will be if there from different rollers. Bled my brakes today, much firmer pedal now. shame the rear left bleed nipple broke off, so cant bleed that drum at least got the other 3 done. Also got some electro luminescent white dial faces, in the middle of installign them- finishing tomorrow morning. will post pics when done.

right, a camper van would be cool- but check into insurance first, they might not want to ensure a new driver on such a large vehicle, even if it isnt very high performance. My golf is a 1.6 golf driver, cost me £1200 on insurance (TPFT) with no mods when i got it as although im 19 its first year driving, no exp, no no claims. I got the car in pretty good condition for £450, so a lower model golf CL (you prob be lookign at a 1.3) would be easy to find in good nick for that price i would imagine. A golf mk 1 is likely to be in worse condition than a mk2, just because of age, but good ones are still around. have a look on autotrader, and im clasifieds liek golf+ mag. I havent found my car to be expensive to maintain at all, but mainly because im doign the work myself. Labour costs more than parts. Ive basically given it a 100k service- all fluids, timing belt, new brakes alround (pad/shoes and disks/drums) , new clutch, ne exaust full system, as well as engine mods (and new headgasket) and estimate i have spent around £750- much cheaper than if i had a garage to the work.

Lookign even better now i have new brakes all round, and painted front calipers with the alloys on! need to sort out 2 tyres for the back 2 alloys and they will be on tomorrow. How much you get that cam for james? and has it made a lot of difference? Since this is my daily driver, i dont think id want a more agressive cam. The GTI one is pretty agressive in our engines since its a smaller engine, and not injection. If your free on monday afternoon, could always see if you can get a tune up straight after me or something. Engine bay in full! New brakes and painted calipers, tasty! New brakes behind new wheels (looks liek its not very low, but it had only just been dropped off the jack- it settles to lower than that.

Salisbury will be a change for you guys, it may not be as big as soton, but theres still a fair amount- im still to ride some of it.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=83110 Just so you know new guy

coolio, hopefully most of a sals crew will be out. I will try and be there, may have to cut it short if i havent finished my car, need to have it done by monday. meeting at front or back of train station?

Just chucked a seat in to my golf (almost literally) and took it for a quick spin since i finished the engine tonight. WHOOOOOOO!!!! Its SOOOOOOO much FASTER! A bit wierd driving with only one seat, no door cards oor window winders or anythign lol. Sounds soo much better too. induction noise is lovely, and exhaust is gorgeous.

Procrastinating- very bad habit.

Oi, Rich- don't forget me!

Whohoo! Engine now runs, still got to hook up carb to throttle and choke cables when i get brakets in the post, but other wise all seems ok. Made a HUGE plume of smoke when it first started as it burnt off all the oil in the bores

Whey a bump for the VAG thread. My golfs gettign back together after major work. engine now just about complete, needs a bit of plumbing. On the bench in the bay With the rest of it. List of what im doing: Engine: weber dmtl carb upgrade GTI camshaft New Full GTI exaust, mk3 centre section to replace front box with straight through pipe. (all painted black for rust resistance, with polished tips for looks ) cleaned and rebuilt head, new valve stem seals, new gaskets all round. Painted head Red - must add some power. new head gasket new timing belt + tensioner New clutch + cleaned gearbox Suspension/handling: New uprated gas shocks with 30mm lowered springs new alloys, Speedline 14x6 need refurbing. Upgraded fornt brakes to GTI vented disks, new disks, pads, drums, shoes allround. Interior: Currently stripping about to retrim doorcards in white vinyl 2 bucket seats to go in looking for black pref leather rear bench and new parcel shelf. Ice: getting a full new install if i have time building pods for components in front doors and rear side cards retrim my amp rack in the boot build a side sub enclosure in my boot to regain boot space Andhopefully have this finished in one weeks time!!!!

James is damn right! Especially when a lot of managers can be incompetent (belive me, they are- while i was at halfords our store had i think 5 diff managers!) it helps to get good pay from the start, as it may be hard to bump up later on, unless you work very hard/ do something special. I need to get me a suit!

BRING IT ON!!! someone give me link/dates now! (actually, i can prob find it). If its on the same time as im at the centenary jamboree i am goign to be very very pissed off. Edit: Oh yeah! no diary clashes im sooooo there. 7-8th July if anyone needs to know

Dishwasher does disks pretty well too, can be useful to give em a quick wipe with meths or other clean solvent afterward just to make sure there sportless. new pads are best bet, other wise decontaminate as best as possible using techniques others have suggested. Then bed in using your personal method, evyone seems to have a different opinion. clean water and and long stops, but not too hard works for me, followed by the use of a bit of mud on the rotor (some mud works better than others, wierd!) to get maximum bite i find.

Has been covered extensively before, please see this topic for full discussion: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=69659

Ticcy, you need a creative Zen Sleek http://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Sleek-Pho...8&s=gateway

rigid forks would definately be a good idea, for that frame it would be a good idea to get some long ones to compensate for suspension geo, will feel nicer than proper trials forks. brakes youve got sorted, wheels seem good enough. Loose the 32t ring for a smaller bash gaurd if you like too, then theres not much left without uprgrading major things, so leave it at that until things break/limit you.

Arent they now mine though ? Unless you have another pair, you sold em to me with the zero frame! Still seem solid, although im not a harsh rider.

give me a ring if your going out, ive nop finished work and have a month off before uni. Will aso send my forks off when i go to uni so my kona will be perfect fot the xmas hols (currently preload doesnt work, and springs a a tad soft) A TF afan day/weekend sound like a damn fine idea, we can take both bikes, ride xc in the day and blast trials in the evening (if we have enough energy that is!)

Hope are very good, and do things out of good will to maintain customers. that is a very old hub, hasnt been manufactured for about 5 years i believe, and it would take quite a beating to do that to the hub. Yes, they have started charging because people were abusing there good will, but thats more for stuff that gets bought, and is returned within a month or two obviously misused, rather than just over used. Oh, and don't worry about not being the origonal owner thing, they dont expect it for a product that old. i bought a mono hub off a friend, it didnt seem right, and i identified the problem as the wrong spacer in the hub behind the bearing sent it off to hope with a nice letter and they sent it back within a week, no charge.

oh, nice! the ratchet has probably cracked, and then when you put pressure down it was stressing the hubshell, cracklign it too. send it back to hope (either hub or wheel) and theyl sort it out, might even do it for free, but i think they have started charging to fix stuff now.

Aye, i cruise round the country side occasionally, although not usually as determinedly as you chris!

There is a difference of +20mm in rotor size to the front, this is to enable companies to make one size caliper (cheaper than 2) and have it fit on a 180/160 rotor combination, as generaly a larger rotor is needed for the front.

I'm afraid i fail to see how a power cap can suddenly prevent drain on the battery and alternator in a 'voila' kinda way. A capacitor holds electrical charge, and can deliver it very fast when needed when compared to a battery, once discharged it needs to be charged again, this takes a LOT longer than the discharge period. Unless correctly used they dont help that much at all, and will not in any way reduce power drain on the batt/alternator, they will just smooth it out somewhat. Power caps are actully best used for the front speakers, rather than the subs as it prevents lack of power to these speakers, which is always mroe noticable.

since this has been bumped, i will do an update! got new clutch in my golf, gearbox back on too. just fiddlign with release arm now. Also fitted rear secxtion of the exauast, looks 100x better! will take some more pics soon and post em up.