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Echo Sl Range


JonMack

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Everybody saying about "why would you drill holes in the cranks", well it hasn't forfeited much strength and it's saved 50g and I'd bet on it being the stiffest crank under 500g.

Have you seen the image on the site and the description, if you can understand it haha:

designSLcrank.jpg

We design the first ECHO CNC crank in 2005 summer. In the last 3 years, zero cranked report. It means it's very strong, so we are sure it's too strong for some riders. So we keep the design as ECHO URBAN crank, for who need something really strong. And remove some grams to make it lighter, as ECHO SL cranks.

From the picture at the bottom, you can see there is no special weak point in the crank. Not every crank can be drill for lighter, ECHO crank has "I" shape design, most material on the outside, so even we remove the material inside the cranks still no weak point.

Anyone wanna buy an 06 control? :P.

parts are seriously stupid this year, why would u buy drilled bar ends if plastic ones are lighter + cheaper?

Matx

The bar ends surprisingly only weigh 14g a set. Look pretty pimp, and you don't have to worry about them popping out every 10minutes.

Adam do you know if they will do the tr lever blades seperatley, and would they fit a 04 maggie? :)

You can't get the lever blade sperately at the moment, but the full TR lever will be available:

* Extruded 6061 T6 aluminum CNC main cylinder holder.

* Compatible for both left or right side.

* High strength 7075 CNC level blade. with comfortable end shape, great feeling.

* For mineral oil only.

* 74g / set, include bolts and flow.

* Available in 6 different anodized color.

I'd just buy the full lever, they should be pretty reasonably priced too around £45.

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From the picture at the bottom, you can see there is no special weak point in the crank. Not every crank can be drill for lighter, ECHO crank has "I" shape design, most material on the outside, so even we remove the material inside the cranks still no weak point.

These cranks could actually be VERY good. All this time I have wondered to myself why this "I" shape hasn't been used before for cranks. The 'stress' and 'strain' forces are at their peak at the outer edges of the crank arms (where, on these cranks, there will be more material), and at the some point near the middle (I'm guessing it would be the perfect centre if the cranks were perfectly symmetrical) their is no stress or strain force whatsoever (the point at which the material has been removed with these cranks).

Its the same reason why steel beams used in steel frames for buildings have an "I" cross section, instead of a rectangular cross section

Deng may have actually thought these through...

Joe

Having said that I have now remembered that the monty ti cranks have material removed from the middle of their inner face, and there are probably a few others that do too...

Edited by thefletch
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'I' cross section cranks are great in bending, but cranks also experience twisting as your weight is applied through the pedal rather than directly to the end of the crank. A tubular crank, longer in the axis in which is is bent (Shimano Hollowtech style) is the best shape for optimum stiffness to weight for a crank. It is perfectly true that the holes will have very little effect on the overall stiffness of the crank, but 'I' beams don't resist twisting well at all compared to tubes, they're just easier to make and (useful for trials specifically) they're more impact tolerant... There's a test rig in the university where I work consisting of an I beam concreted into a wall - you can't even feel the deflection in the beam if you hang your whole weight off the end of it, but it's laughably easy to twist the beam (cm of deflection with 10-20kg hung off it) if you apply loads off the beam axis.

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If anyone else can remember the Hi-Fi vs XTP FEA (Or whatever those pics are of...) shots that Deng posted up, it's always as well to take Deng's graphics with a pinch of salt.

What, am I missing something here? I thought the Hi-Fi frames were way way stronger than XTPs?

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Drilled cranks = killed ankles?

Have you actually seen the shape of these cranks? It's more likely the I shape will rape your ankles than a few tucked away holes. The Echo CNC cranks were never ankle friendly but adding holes in a fairly inaccessable area won't make things worse.

And as Phil has pointed out, the strength of these cranks hasn't been compromised but 50g have been saved. That's what clever weight saving is all about.

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I think that's the 3rd post I've read about the risk of ankles being ripped apart.

I really can't see how, the holes are tucked away, surely it's the shape and bend of the cranks which makes a crank that knackers ankles, an example is tensile with their very straight armed cranks. I'd more expect the edge of the "I-beam" construction of the cranks to cause more hassle than the holes.

The I-beam construction of the cranks is very clever. Exactly what Deng said about the fact theres no strength lost from drilling the holes is right. I also don't think a twisting force is going to affect the cranks, maybe on a long beam, but on a pair of cranks the twist must be so minimal over such a small width compared to the length.

Anyway, I'd be pretty sure if you bought the sl cranks you won't have a problem with them, the design is spot on as far as cranks go.

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That's the point that dude came up with when he made his entirely CNC'd frame. It needed crosslinks for strength, and it made it look like a bridge.

I do like those cranks though, they look cool. I'd buy some as I'm not terribly likely to snap anything, but it might not be worth the price. Especially when I got my tensile cranks for £30.

Hmm, I've clipped my ankle on my tensiles. But then, when I rode yesterday, I didn't.

I suppose its one of those things you've just got to learn to avoid.

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