dave85

Where the hell is he going, and why is he waltzing about ten feet up in the pissing rain on slippy rocks?

Crank arm in a vice, nice big pair of stillsons and it WILL just walk off. Or bend summat

Splits rather than solid but you get the idea. Looks nice when its moving, then again how often do you see the outside of your car when you're driving it?

Im running the pads out of my BB7 and the BB7 rotor, and I can tell you it really isnt worth you experimenting with

Three miles better. You just have to put up with no feedback. (actually I've noticed the same as Tomm, in the pissing wet the juicy is good, in the dry its rubbish )

So it'll flap around like a wizard's sleeve, yeah proper good idea that one. You just keep excelling yourself.

Mine is rather average on the back of my bike (26" and 203 rotor), despite pad changes and whatnot it doesnt have the final locking power I'd like.

Nylon block is the ticket, its quieter than a chunk of metal. I had one with a few holes drilled through it from side to side and then cable ties holding it to the stay. Not overly secure but it worked well.

Something like that should sort you out.

I would like to add that Iolo is actually doing this work himself; with the greatest deference to all businessmen around here, having the skills and tools to build a frame from scratch is worth slightly more to the trials community than peddling catalogue parts through an internet store. He deserves our support.

Thats what mine looks like. It is slightly overkill

A stepped bush with a parallel section to fit the bore of the cup and a flat face to push on the top edge is what ive got, taper ones will do at a pinch, you'll just have to watch it more carefully and be aware that it could bend bits on light headsets (like cane creek C2's)

A couple of alloy/steel/whatever bushes that will support the cups and keep them concentric and in line helps enormously

Thats normal if youve been generous with the oil. Its not letting it all out, only the excess. The bearing outer covers are shields rather than rubber seals so they will let oil past.

Is that an opinion or a question? Oh and the magura is a 2000 (or '01 i cant quite remember) magura louise, they came in raceline for some celebration or something.

You beat two and a half tons of 4x4, on tarmac. have a lollipop to celebrate

(this lot assuming its an '05 mag) Try turning the TPA around, so its using threads that havent been mangled, or put a tap through it if you have one, its M6. Or last resort, fire me a PM and i'll sort you out with an alloy replacement.

This one?

Apollos aren't made from a metal with a high fatigue limit.

Yeah piece of cake. You cant get anything the wrong way round or daft stuff like that, its all nice and obvious. Bit of finishline lube on the steel surfaces of the axle, and a dab of grease on the threads and you can make as good a job as anyone will.

Yeah that fits. Pop the old axle out, new one in, adjusting collar on and locked up with a 3/32" allen key, bolts in each end and your away.

Mike's gifted..... Just means he'll end up stuck worse than us later on

The headtube join does look a little spindly for comfort.

8 x 1.25 10 x 1.25 and cannondale is 5/16" UNC I do believe.

Ko bike will have your nuts for that