totaltrials

Why? They're a normal 1 1/8" steerer. Unless I'm being stupid and missing something glaringly obvious, they should fit on pretty much any frame. (dependant on steerer length).

And who does that?

You should know by now Dave, people don't actually turn up to organised rides.

Here you go: http://weightweenies...ect.php?id=7283 228g for 105x30

I don't know anyone who is a Rockman Manus. Is that even possible?

Awsome Neil.

I realised I had a life for a few days. . Glad it's back though. I can now procrastinate better than ever.

Don't forget to do the cheese grater test on them bad boys. .

That's fine then. Keep that up. You probably just need more time to notice a difference. Try to exercise every day with the occasional off day if you're tired. If you don't over do it each day you should be ok to do a little exercise each day.

How long have you been training? If you're generally not that fat but just have a bit of a belly, it'll take a lot longer to get rid of rather than if you were fat all over. If you're training quite a bit, you want to be taking in around 2000kcal a day, non training maybe around 1500kcal. I'm sure someone would be able to give you something more accurate depending on your weight and size. It's going to take quite a while and you probably won't notice a difference for a while until all of a sudden you notice an improvement.

I'd use chainring bolts right away rather than screwing into the aluminium. There's a reason why chainring bolts have such a small tpi. If you are to screw straight into the bash, I wouldn't have thought there would be enough material to safely secure the chainring. If you use chainring bolts you can clamp from both sides, making it impossible to rip out. It'd also look better than seeing bolts sticking out the front of the bash.

Looks well good. Say thanks to me Dave

I'm sure it said the 2nd May before. Ah well, I might be down on the 2nd and 3rd anyway.

I might be down from Liverpool then, so me and Davetrials should be out and about.

Well done to Revolver. Everyone needs to be this guy.

One thing to bare in mind with front rim brakes is, do you want modulation or lock. I purposely make my front brake worse. I give my front rim a light grind and put bog standard Avid pads on. This gives me good modulation, decent lock and no hugely annoying squeal (they are also very cheap to replace and last a decent amount of time). If you were to use trials designed pads (Heatsink, TNN etc) you will probably find they are very sharp and noisy. You could go for a smooth rim and Inspired V-pads, but it still could be sharp and nosey. But it depends how you want it, as some people prefer this. In terms of V-brake arms, pretty much any Avid or Shimano arms are good enough. Don't go for anything too cheap as the springs and spring adjustment are usually useless. Any Shimano Parallel push linkage brakes (XT, XTR) will still work well, but tend to be very very slightly more spongy than a regular V-brake, and I've never noticed any difference in power with this brakes. Avid levers are good and popular, and you can't really go wrong for performance and price. As for the cables, I'd recommend Shimano XTR, they aren't hugely expensive for a full front and rear set (around £20) but for some reason always tend to feel the nicest out of any cables. You can just get a pretty cheap Jagwire inner and outer from your local shop and to be honest, with a bit of oil, it'll still feel perfectly fine. You won't get a huge difference in strength between inner cables, but if you get a stainless steel inner cable you shouldn't have a problem. But for piece of mind you could just change the inner cable every 4/6 months as they are only £1.50 - £3.

What a film. At first I thought it was going to be a bit tacky and cheesey with kids trying to be lil ninjas dresses as super heros. But my god it was propper good and really funny, it's just one big joke but you kind of knew that while watching it so it worked.

Just for the fact the quality was immense made everything look 10 times better. But the riding was very good too so, brilliant video. Gone of the days of eeongoedidee and keeping 5minute videos under 50mb, if you're old enough to remember those days, the days before Youtube, my god, that's weird nostagia.

It's saying invalid referral code you know.

I don't think you'd be able to do it. It'd be far too much hassle and the hub has quite wide flanges anyway.

Ditto. Evo2 mounts can be a pain, but you should be able to get a good set up. I'd probably do away with the quick release and just fit a normal bolt rather than the hour glass bolt. If your brake is relatively old, you might have some pretty indented cylinder washers. Getting some new ones should make setting the brake up much easier as it won't pull out of alignment when you tighten up. So you should be able to align the pads perfectly square by eye then gradually tighten them up. Cylinder washer:

Looks nasty that. But it is good to have them in you're a beginner as you're more likely to slip off. Once you improve a lot you'll probably find you don't slip off so much. I don't use shin pads, but I'd imagine you don't need anything too bulky and something that straps up nicely. There are pads which arn't like the DH pads but are like a fabric with hard inserts. These may be more comfortable than a solid piece of plastic around your shin. So, something like this 661 Veggie shin pad.

You can't kick like you normally do for obvious reasons. So you change your technique, you should put a quicker/flickier kick in without dropping the front wheel. It's more of a bounce as soon as you touch the point so do one hop and go straight away, don't hang around. You're also going to have to put more emphasis on compression on the take off to give you that lift.

Super riding Jack, totally unique, creative and mega ballsy.