RobinJI

If its coming from the lever try wacking some WD40 or greese on the little brass barrel that the reach adjuster screws into, and on the pivot. If its coming from the caliper check that the pads are warn evenly, my LX did it because one of the pads was warn unevenly and the piston creaked as it twisted in the caliper when you pulled it hard.

Nice A good reason not to cock aounrd near rotors, it's all to easy to do that kinda stuff, I've certainly had a few close calls. Edit: one of my friends did a similar thing skating but it wasn't hanging off and they did the same paperclip and lighter thing.

What 24seven do you have? If its the Holroyd then the hub must be a 110mm spacing, so will fit no problem atall, But if its any other 24seven frame, then it will be 135mm and wont fit. If its 135 then just get a normal pitbull and a tensioner, rather than the mod one, it will be alot cheeper than a new hub and wheelbuild. The deal with 116mm spacing as explained above is so that you can run a 110mm hub, with a 3mm snail cam on each side without having to flex the stays apart. If you don't wan't snailcams just wack 3mm of washers on there. Is that picture of your profile in your frame or just an example? because that looks like a 135mm 9-speed hub in vertical dropouts.

John, I'll find you some if you really wan't, it's not really hard, although it would be cool if tarty sold it.

Yeah, front grinds are fine. Could try just grinding one side at first, so it's a little more subtle, or nice soft pads made for clean rims. Only reason you don't see many ground front rims is because it looses alot of modulation, so makes wheelswaps and such a bit trickier. But if you're not into that kinda thing then go for it! Also grinding isn't more expencive really, be a scab and borrow a grinder, practice on an old nackered rim, and then do it yourself, that way its free!

Hey, to avoid bending them just undo them all, then uncross them and take them out without the rim on there.

Don't let one or two braking put you off. They have solf thousands, a few are bound to break just because of manufacturing discrepancies. There still amazing hubs, and theres nothing out there nearly as good for the money.

I'd say go for the Saracen 2.6 off e-bay, there nicer than the 20" in my opinion, and thats an amazing price. frame won't really hold you back either, so you can just ride it untill anything breaks, then upgrade it, and you'll get a sweet bike by the end.

Oh right, yeah, I love hopes, I know there stronger than kings, I was talking about the freewheel system really, rather than the hub in total . Just didn't make it very clear.

Chances are it was just the tension caused between the drive force placed on the ratchet ring, and the spokes that were transfering most of that force to the rim, stressing the hub body. Due to this drive force the spokes pulling the other way would not have been under tension, meaning that it wasn't ripped apart by the spokes tension from the build, but by the drive force through the spokes. to quote gary fisher. Kings are Light and strong but not cheep The hope is Light, and compared to a king, cheep, but not as strong. I'd say its more likely to be down to raw materials as I'm sure hope have done there research and calulations to work out how much material to put there. Speeking from experience your spokes would snap and your rim would crack around the spoke holes, especialy as his rim is not eyeleted. The forces on the hub counteract because of the oposing spokes, so it's normaly the last thing to go.

Looking good, Very similar to one of my friends 660, and thats a beast to ride.

Yep, just ride more and they toughen up and get solid as hell. Mine never hurt anymore. If you wanna speed em up holding a lighter to them quicky works with ones on your fingertips from playing guitar, so dont see why it wouldnt on you palm, you just heat em up every now and then and it speeds up how fast they form.

Hahaha, Good point, but I've had gaffa tape stuck in my hair before, and it hurts like f**k! Think I'm just gunna see if I can fit them any better and if that doesnt work I'll just have a look around for one of those elastic things. I get what someone said about them staying on except fast spins, but problem is, I ride 24" and love to spin. They stay on fine on ups and stuff, but 270 drops and they go flying!

I play bass, have done for about 16 months now I think, since last june anyway. I'm alright at it, can play weirdly fast, I'm just shite at remembering the whole song and all the variations as stuff. I'm loving learning ATDI bass lines at the moment, there not hard, but really fun and well writen. I'm playing an Ibanez GSR200, got a loverly feela nd sound to it, and everyone that trys it is obsessed with playing slap bass on it! including me! Amp wise I'm still using my Peavey 20W practice amp for now, its got a good sound to it, just not all that loud.

When the frame arives anytime within the next two weeks I'm gunna be riding a Iolo Bikes Custom 24", will definatly get some pics up in the bike pics forum when its here, only short of a BB and chainring parts wise. For now though I'm just riding my Mongoose Teocal Super freeride bike, used to be a comp, till I killed the frame and they gave me a Super frame under warenty. Only starndard parts are the rear gears and hub, and the cranks/BB, But my XTR cranks are going on sometime. Pictures

I've needed glasses for a couple of years now, but I've only worn them in school/college lessons and watching films. However the time to start learning to drive has come so I'm gunna have to where them when I'm behind the wheel. I tried wearing them lots recently so friends would get used to it, but I've quickly found that while I'm riding I miss judge distance's because of not being used to the slight distortion they cause. This got me thinking that for me to be safe on the roads I'm gunna have to get really used to wearing them so I can judge distance's safely while driving. So I started wearing them 24/7, and I'm a lot more used to it now, but when I ride they keep falling off my head, I'm afraid I'll start to have the opposite problem, as in when I take them off I won't be able to judge distance's properly! Now I'm stuck, because I can't ride with them, as they fall off, and I won't be able to ride without them, because I won't be able to hit targets. I know the obvious one is contacts, but my eyesight's really not that bad, just bad enough to need them to drive, so It would seem a waist of money. Do any of you guys have the same problem? What can I do about it besides shelling out for contacts?

On my old V24 I was running a 28-14 which was pirfect for a mix of street and trials, could still get the speed for stairs and Race-tracks as long as you didn't mind pedaling like a hamster on speed, and when it came to the street stuff I could still stall nicely and do technical stuff. You're not really gunna be able to do any decent dirt with a lower than 1-2 gearing, so I'd advise an 18t sprocket on the back, just as low as posible, while not holding you back. For street trials I'm gunna be running a 20-16 at first (same gear as 20-17 on 26" wheels), but I suspect I will want to change to 22-16 soon. If you know anyone with a 26", mod or BMX that you like the geering on, you work it out with: (chianring/sprocket)*wheel diameter in inch's. (mods count as 20" as its done by the outside diameter, which is still 20" because of the Fat tyre) So a 26" with 20-17 is (20/17)*26=30.588 And 24" with 20-16 is (20/16)*24=30 And 10" with 18-12 is (18/12)*20=30 so basicly the same.

I don't really have any kind of problem with gays, who thay shag is up to them, not me. So as long as I'm not getting bumed by them I'm not really bothered. Like a while ago on a train a gay guy was checking me out and stuff, then I just put my arm round my girlfriend at the time and kissed her and he when away, which was fine, he didnt cause any neusence or anything, and it made my girlfriends mate laugh like hell!! I know what people mean about guys acting 'gay' and it is anoing, just seems really attension seeking and sad, but then if they act like that and I found out they are not gay, I'd still think they were a knob just as much! I can think of a few gay guys who I know and get along with fine, and the majority of gay men are decent guys, they just like a bit of cock every now and then!

Clicky - 4 bolt braze ons, come with 4-bolt clamps too, which you can either flog or keep as spares. I think that the idea with the holes straight through the frame would be good on a cruser, would weeken the frame too much for proper use, but on a cruser, hell yeah! I think what people mean with the evos upside down is that with a 20" BMX wheel and a normal BMX frame which have U-break mounts (not Vee mounts) you can run Evo 1 mounts upside down with a magura. However this frame has Vee break mounts so with a 20" wheel evo mounts would work fine the normal way up. BUT! this guy is running a 19" wheel so he has extra pimp factor with the huge tyre! so the Vee mounts are in the wrong place for Vees and Evo mounts. Just hack em off and either braze on some 4-bolts, or drill some holes and do your idea.

I'm not sure about converting it to use the pro II trials bolts, But a 10mm axel is a 10mm axel, have a look around and see if you can find an axel for it how it is, just a little longer. Could ask around at your local industrial estate, and see if anyone could make you up an axel by simply cutting off like a 10 * 200mm rod of steel and threading first 30mm of each end. That'd give you pleanty of room for anything you wanted to bolt to the ends.

Can't think why that would be. I've been meaning to get my lip done off to the left with a black ring for months, but I could never be bothered, and now I'm looking for a job, so I'll probably leave it till I've secured one, then get it done (only looking in bike shops, and they normaly dont care about piercings, just better for interviews to not have a swolen lip really.)

Seconded Edit: found the bail one on google video - just search neil tunnicliffe and its the top one

Can't find anything in the FAQs topic, all I can suggest is to take it out and measure it if you haven't binned it.

Best thing is obviosly a Crank Extractor, which everywhere stocks! even most holfords! If the thread is stripped (in which case someones been a tit ) then by far the bset method along time before heating/whacking with a hammer is to go and borrow an oldschool fly wheel puller That kinda thing, but the ones with adjustable arms, and hook the arms behind the crank, and just pull it off asif you were using a crank extractor! so easy, but I'm yet to see anyone but myself try it

(sorry for bumping an old topic, but better than starting a new one ) I find that Square taper is just as good as long as its all good quality stuff, as the cranks have to be made of a better alloy to cope with the stress without rounding. There fine if you tighten them every ride. Also 36/48 spline BMX BBs are awsome, they are really easy to fit if you know how. The cranks spacing can be a bit of a pain, but after fitting 2 or 3 sets you find it really easy, and the cross compatability makes eveything worth wile in the long run!