dezmtber

I like to use the tensile 60, works fine for me and I have a spare on a spare crank arm ready for if it fails mid comp so i can just put the new one on in minutes, I can't really carry a spare wheel round though if a hope hub snaps the pawls springs or shifts the drive ring in the hub. I know those are very unlikely but it a ride ending fail.

It's a fairly solid build all working fine I would say closer to £250

You can stand your full body weight on a mod wheel ni problem. I didnt dare do this with my 24" wheel

I think risse still do 12" travel forks? Risse bigfoot forks you can still buy

Mista Wong

Welfare ? I mean welds

What are you comparing the welfare to? The only welds I have seen that are better are done by my mate who welds aero space titanium. As far a bike frames the welds are spot on.

Use the grease syringe in the small Allen key grub screw. And copper slip grease the pedal threads. If none of this works you have problems with the cranks or bottom bracket

Looks smart were going to have to get a ride in sometime

The red one has a driver that bolts the cog to it. Maybe the hub shell will be the same as the pro 2 mtb hub so the disc possibility could be on the cards ?

No disc mounts thou

Ferrari red if you want something different

Those rotors are very light the brake surface is alloy with a steel coating to help take heat from the disc pads, The rivets are much better than the other rotors you can get like hope, aztec, superstar ect... I can't say if they are fully capable of really heavy gaps or landings, thou

side up on the cotton reel was amazing

Of the 510 breaks at 1200 kg it pretty much tells me the 610 should be mental strong. I an just saying if you fit it correct and oil.it regular and are light on the bike. You can like me use a much lighter chain. Yes a mechanic can run this chain because I do this thing called looking after the chsin rather than bashing and throwing salt at it. I am not daying you guys don't look after your bikes but the evidence says it all. My bike doesn't break where yours does.

I have done done reasarch for you Breaking force to snap all the chains Kmc 510 hx 1200kg Kmc 710 1300kg Kmc 710 sl 950kg I will never put 1 ton through a Kool sl so I am not changing. Until I am convinced otherwize

I use park tools mini brute at home and the brute at work. I split around 10 chains a week ? I use the split link suplyed with the Kmc Kool sl chain and guess what my freind snapped one Kool sl it took 9 months and was due to hitting the chain on a rock and it held up the rest of the ride on half the link in tackt, we realized it had a broken link at home checking the bike over before the next ride. Replace the chain and good for another 9 months, or 6 if my mate replaced his as often as I do. I know why u broke a Kool sl. You reused the pins after removing them, don't do this if you get the kool sl, use the split link. If I had enough sl split links I would run a chain made purely of split links for a comp just to prove a point

The main reason I use the Kool sl is because the pins are solid as. When trimming this chain the tool goes through serious stresses that no other chain I have split gives, I use yhe kool sl split pin too which has also proven to be tough as, my mate uses the same Kool sl, he is 16 stone. Isn't the new tryall sl chain the same as well. Just asuming some top French comp riders will be using this chain now

Kool sl

looks like a winner to me ?

I tryed a 36 at mountain mayhem I couldnt even reach the cranks If i get a new uni I think a 24" maybe on the cards

Blk mrk bars are top stuff. Very nice So what's the highest stack on tf ? And has it snapped ? I use 20mm stack no snapped steerer yet. On echo urbans 09 20" and rockman spade on 24"

I don't know

i would use it deffinitly

Hate the bulk not the person. Just because there fat doesn't make them a bad person, it just means they eat a lot and do very little. I do have a dislike to obesety