AdamR28

Appears not in this case glad you are getting sorted out

I've not seen this before - thought a few people might find it interesting! https://www.ibiscycles.com/our-story/history/7-trials

My only direct experience here is making frames for myself, without the use of a proper jig, no fancy tools, and with DIY techniques. I've made 3 now, and number 1 was a bit of a bodge, but none of the dimensions were more than 10mm or 1 degree different to my drawings. The 2nd was better. The 3rd frame is within 2mm and 0.1 degrees. Frame builders can manufacture to superb tolerances and with great consistency, its just the graphic on the frame is "wrong" in this case. Some good info here: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/manufacturing-alignment-tolerance.1207578/#post-15700651

Possible I guess, but very rare to be the cause. Only way to tell is to strip the hoses off and inspect.

Your frame isn't a 'lemon', the geometry is just different to what the manufacturer states. It's pretty common. But yes, I agree it doesn't make sense! It is something Tarty have discussed at length with Christian in the past, but somehow this is not seen as an issue at Crewkerz.

Yep, known "problem" with this frame. Loads of these bikes out there with the headset cups not sitting flush, without issue, so don't worry. Source of knowledge: I built about 300 of these bikes back in 2003-2004 when I was working for Onza... they had a special lower cup made, which of course nearlt 20 years on they won't have available any more. A heads up, I would measure the BB thread diameter before you go any further with the build... some of these frames have oversized BB threads (by accident), for which the solution was to get some oversized BBs made to fit, which again you will struggle to find any more. Plus these special BBs only came in 119mm square taper, not much use nowadays!

Yup... 44mm insertion diameter, cups hidden inside frame, bearings into cups. The photo above shows the frame has been dented (front of head tube), hence the dimension being a bit small. Should be around 33.9mm. In reality, just press the cup in and all will be ok.

From an axle fatigue point of view, nearer the dropout. I think, when considering the hub / rear sprocket, it more depends on the bearing layout and design of the hub. Overall, I tend to let my front sprocket decide where the rear one goes.

My experience is that you'll need a new rotor.

That is pretty normal after wetting the rotor. However, new pads AND rotor required to get the brake working properly again. No exceptions.

Could perhaps have been the tiny pads on the BB5s getting stuck into the huge holes in the previous rotors? Not sure if its still doing the same with the Shimanos... If you can't be arsed lacquering the frame, a wipe down with an oily rag, WD40, etc does a good enough job of keeping rust at bay. I did a full winter of MTB on mine and it came back 'good as new' with a bit of wire wool afterwards. You do lose the nicely coloured heat zones around the welds though. Awesome to see it built fully and I hope you love it, top work!

Looking ace Managed to have a little ride yet? What sort of length chainstay did you end up setting the rear wheel at?

What a beaut

Perhaps a case of mistaken identity at Hope... wouldn't be the first time stuff like this has got mixed up at their place. There's not a lot to differentiate between the two part numbers, especially to a non bike nerd...

Have you tried the Pro axle?

Bummer! It's quite common on kit cars as they often aren't set up properly... there should be a mechanical stop to the pedal itself (a bolt through the firewall is more than adequate) which is found just before or at the same time as the throttle is fully open.

Did you try to add photo there Tom? Or just belatedly very happy for Luke? I've recently gone full XC whippet, bought lycra and everything. This bike is seriously easy to ride very fast. Technology: who knew?

Brake is contaminated, possibly due to the brake cleaner. New pads and rotor required to get it back to full performance, but burning pads and properly cleaning rotor will help. Organic pads work better for trials.

This x100 the little nadgery stuff is the killer until you've ridden a fair bit of natural!

Weird how this has gone under the radar: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-tyne-61885899 Or maybe not...

Depends on a lot of things... the best thing to do is push your brake pads all the way back, measure the gap, and subtract 2mm

Tarty have stock now. Lever feel is lovely and light. The whole thing looks smaller in person than on photos, weirdly. Power is going to be a touch more than the Tech 3, with associated reduction in pad / rotor clearance.

Its all good, it'll work just fine.

I don't recall that... but then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast today

Have used the Rainsports on both road and track and been impressed with them in all conditions. Obviously dry track days are a bit 'limited' but they don't shred apart and are consistent. Wouldn't hesitate to fit to any of my cars.