craigjames

Gave the Audi a little bit of love over the weekend, new oil and filters and actually cleaned it (definitely not to Jardo's standards)! Enjoying driving again after owning the 5 series tank for a few years and find i'm accumulating parts for it as quickly as my bank balance will allow. One minor setback was once I was under the car I could see a small amount of oil seeping from the gearbox: Checked the filling port and doesn't seem to have lost any oil. Was my intention to change the GB oil anyway, but need to find a replacement part number for the seal and check there are no surprises lurking behind that cover before I swap it out. Sorry for the poor quality photos, my dad, a camera phone and low light don't tend to work too well.

Sounds like a plan, fortunately a few cans of beer/packets of biscuits and I can get anything welded up by the nuclear welders at work So might be a viable option. Why would you change the tailpipe? Just for looks?

That was the plan, just trawling through forums/ebay to find a cat back system for sale. Millteks just don't seem to come up too often, which is a shame. I've been reading up on ARBs and there is a lot of info (opinion) on setups for S3s, but not a lot for A3s, what did you run on yours? 22mm FR/19mm R?

Shame they don't do a 2.5" system Can imagine it's pretty damn loud. Nick or anyone, a little excessive for "stage 2" AUM? Was planning on just getting a 2.5" to go with the 3" DP I have.

Yes they are still trading, as said give them a ring Joe's dad owns the shop but that's pretty much where the connection ends. Joe works for Moore Large and has done for a while now.

Less weight innit! Even if it did, it would probably be peeling by now..

As pretty much said, wheelbase by itself doesn't really affect the the handling of a trials bike. It's how the wheelbase is made up short/long chainstays, reach, head angle and BB height. Using wheelbase as a measuring stick to compare frames is pretty useless when it comes to trials. I'll ask a question; why are you trying to find out? I mean is it purely to understand what influence wheelbase has on a trials bike and the way it rides? Or are you trying to compare something?

It's pretty unlikely that the Onza hub will work with either rim with the spokes you have.

Grinning the whole way through.

That's fair enough Dan, forgot you'd done a bit of work to it!

Low pressures and narrow rims will both contribute to tyre roll. What pressure are you running and what tyres? Running 45+ PSI and you should be ok with most tyres on those rims.

Did you notice a big cloud of black smoke out the exhaust as you lost all boost? Had a clip on one of the boost pipes fail on my PD130 Ibiza when I lost all boost/power, quite common, nothing a jubilee clip couldn't sort.

A bit of oscillation is normal. So tight/loose spots can be expected. However as said if the FW is staying still as the cranks rotate then I would say the crank threads are stripped.

34 MPG at 80 isn't that bad really, my A3 will do 44 MPG (calculated) doing a long run at 70ish.

Fred, that could be a whole lot worse. As Jardo said a darn site better than that French go-kart you were in when I last saw you! Skoze, either raise it or weld some skid plates at the joints to stop it catching as badly?

Not all of us no... Does seem to be the "in" thing at the moment.

Are you related to Cleric?

Sorry to take the this all of topic! Use a booster if your frame suffers from enough flex that it affects the brake or you feel it would reduce the life of your frame. Most modern frames with a built in booster don't require anything else and adding one may increase the brakes hold but at the sacrifice of reduced bite. If your frame flexes a lot, then a two bolt booster can be a could compromise between; improving brake feel, reducing flex and whilst not lowering bite at the expense of hold. Personally I think that anyone that has to use tar to make a brake work either has the wrong pad/rim combo or can't set up a brake; you shouldn't have to use a sticky substance to make a brake work. Since I've been running French Coust pads (for the last 5 years or so) I've always had a brake that has performed consistently excellent in all conditions. With a well set up brake and a good grind, they really are awesome. I think the other benefit of these pads is that they just last so damn long, my current set are coming up to 18 months old and still have life in them.

Pretty much the ultimate pad and rim combination and it didn't work?! Very very odd. But then you do use tar to make your brake work

You were talking about talking off of a slope, not rolling down it. Make up your mind! Bite yes, will help you lock the wheel. But when taking off of a slope your wheel would be locked and static already, the hold of the pads would be holding the wheel static as it is already locked. You've contradicted yourself, I understand what you were trying to say; but at no point when taking off of a slope do you require bite, to get to the setup and lock the wheel yes. But that wasn't what you were talking about. Setup and take off are two different moves. Jeeez, that's bizarre. I really hate to say it but there must have been something wrong with your setup or something. They really are awesome pads! You weren't running tar like you are now? What rim were you running? Just curious

Were you running grind? I've just never known anyone to get proper Cousts performing something other than awesome; bite and hold in pretty much any conditions is what they're known for! The fact that you could get neither from these pads would suggest you were doing something wrong... I understand what you're trying to say, but you were talking about taking off of a downslope not rolling down one. When you're taking off of a downslope then your wheel is already locked, bite has already taken place and the holding force of the pads is what is holding your wheel still prior to take off. Bite is literally how quickly the pad will lock the wheel, hold is what keeps it from slipping.

You're doing something wrong! You want hold on a down slope, that's exactly what you want. Who would want brake slip on a down hold through not having enough hold?!

Curvature is fairly easy. Cut the sides with a jigsaw to the curve you want, secure batons between the two side and a frame to support it all. The just screw the ramp surface to the batons to give the curve.

Really?!!?!

Usually an admin fee for changing the details and issuing a new certificate, you'll have to post the old one back to them too. But yeah pretty damn easy. Might be an additional cost or a saving due to it being different car/insurance group etc.