craigjames

Ok a dual ply tyre may certainly help and might even cure the problem but it wont solve the cause and i'm sure it's nothing to do with his set up. There really is no reason to run that sort of pressure on any tyre for trials, it reduces grip and the bounce you get from the tyre compressing and rebounding. For now a dual ply tyre will help but surely the answer is to learn to ride smoother?

I have just wasted the last 45 minutes at work reading this thread and a lot of those 300 facts were complete rubbish.

Anyone remember Trapdoor, the kids program?

Don't know what it would be like for trials, but i've got a set on my full sus bike and they are amazing, soooooooo much power!

Those original steel Monty forks don't have a disc brake mount, were never intended for discs and therefore probs won't clear a disc whatever you do.

I imagine its more with the fact that they're cheapo steel forks with the dropouts welded central to the fork leg. Unfortunately if it won't space out and wont work with proper Torx disc rotor bolts then it's new forks time, certainly a worth while upgrade.

Dude if you can a picture would be ideal .

Rotor bolts If you've tried something like them then I'd get some pics up or give us a spec (hub, forks, brake etc) of what you have, or even better both.

Do your bolts look like this: or like this: Generally the latter will be higher profile and can catch on your fork legs, if you have those get some like the first; they're Ti,but some lil black torx disc rotor bolts will do you fine. If thats not the issue, get some pics up so we can figure out what is

Do you have domed torx (star) bolts or normal cap head allen bolts?

Very very impressive stuff.

Whole tour or nothing. Matt i hope you do realise myself and Luke will just kidnap you....

My mate down the road had that bike, used to pich it and wear the batteries out in no time. The sega master system with Alex the Kid, still ahve a soft toy evil poddigton pea at home and a Thundercats sword that lights up and made sound effects My first mountainbike that had RST 281s, crud catchers (the original square ones) and riser bars with a brace to stop them bending. Orange michelin widgrippers. The racoons on tv. Micro machines.

Think you may have an invasion of 24" riders.....

Funn Soljam pedals have a small section of grip tape in the centre of the platform, they've been out for fair few years now. Never tried any, could be ok. Matt surely with muddy comps they get gooed up with mud making the grip tape useless?

Seems fair enough Simps. Might hit up Ross and see whats going on too.

A highly educational, informative and well thought out response. Well done.

Thank god i have my own car this year, I have dark memories of my last trip with you going side ways round a roundabout in your packed beemer....

I run a single ply folding Kenda with about 20ish psi and pick a pinch every few weeks maybe... A dual play would certainly help your issues as would a nice 47mm wide rim. I don't think big heavy tubes are the answer as I use cheap Wilko or Raleigh tubes.

Sorry if i've missed it but you still haven't said what tyre you're running? You really shouldn't need to run pressures any where near that high to prevent pinches.

So this is a topic trying to persuade you to spend five minutes of your life changing over a set of pads...... nice.

Pretty pimp build, preferred Adams proto colour wise. Considering the spec the full bike price isn't ridiculous either.

That wasn't a Viz! square hole job with angled sidewalls and seemingly made of a material that was awful for holding a grind or actually being ground in the first place.

Rubbish, it's fairly easy if you're competent. Can't ever remember getting a pinch so bad it was unfixable.

I don't know what it is about those rims, but mine was awful. Had about 4 different pads that I tried with it, new bleeds, several different grinds; all tried to be set up by several different people and it was still rubbish. My Rockman/Try-All rim is much much better.