Mark W

I hope Duncan's video from that place is a purely coincidental shot-for-shot remake of this.

I've seen quite a lot of recent work from Josh and he's putting out some great stuff. I know his earlier frames weren't the best, but he's right up there now.

This video's 10 years old. Yohan's riding in the same style/way in it, including footjam whips, manuals, stoppies, spins, etc. That aside, I agree with Flipp. Your videos keep improving

FFW on a street trials bike isn't ideal. You get more resistance/drag through the drivetrain that slows you down, especially when you compare a trials FFW setup to using a rear Hope freehub. They just spin forever, whereas with a FFW setup you'll generally find your wheel slows down really quickly. The other thing is that the chain is constantly spinning on a FFW setup, and on mod I used to have issues with it destroying jeans - I'd hate to think what it'd be like at speed on a 24... Although lighter is generally better, weight on a street trials bike isn't really that big a deal. For most moves you won't really notice it as much. Those bikes don't tend to be amazing for outright trialsy trials stuff which is where you would notice the extra weight more, so it's worth going for a slightly heavier bike that's going to be reliable (and not feel flexy). When I ran lighter trials-orientated parts on my early 24s I didn't like the feel of it, especially with wheels. Landing spins on lighter, single wall rims with low flange hubs just feels like a mess.

I hope that Brexit triggers some kind of economic collapse in Europe just to cut marketing budgets for bike brands so this whole "Look what he's doing on a road bike!!!" shit ends.

The lever blades on the Trialtech levers aren't the same as the separate blades they sell for '05-style lever bodies.

Kenny, you of all people should know that you can never have too many arrows in the quiver Get it done. Even if it's just there as a back-up option for a quick play it's worth having around!

Ah, OK - that's a 26" one by the looks of it which makes that make sense! That might also come into your decision too - 24" and 26" bikes feel quite different, so it depends if you have a preference.

Hmm. Weird. From memory, the white and black Elements were the first to come with disc mounts too - the yellow and grey before were non-disc. The purple Flow is definitely non-disc though.

Friends don't let friends use new Nitromors. They basically took the active ingredient out - Starchem is your friend.

No need to re-bleed - there's a little retaining plate that holds the piston in place so it doesn't go anywhere. It's super easy to fit them - they don't have a weird spring setup like the stanndard MT2/4/5 levers, so it's much more straight forward. The only thing to try and avoid is tapping the lever pin completely out of the body. They come with a new one, but if you can keep the old one partially in the body it's way easier to tap it back in. Think of it like splitting a chain, basically.

Which generation/colour bikes are we talking? The early Elements and early Flows were non-disc, so if either bike is non-disc then that might hold you back a bit further down the line if you wanted to upgrade. Just to add, if they're both rim brake only or both disc ready, then the Element would be the better of the two. The frames and forks are broadly similar, but some aspects of the Element are a bit above the Flow. For example, Elements came with Truvativ splined cranks whereas some models of Flow came with square taper.

As Ben says, they fit. You can fit the HC3 blades to any of the latest MT-series bodies as far as I know. I had them on a set of MT2 bodies with no problems. They were easier to install than the standard MT2 blades even, despite Magura saying they're not compatible.

Thanks Luke, appreciate it

Hyper conveniently, the back of my Mum's car. My car broke down the day before so had to do a stuff-and-bike-car-switcheroo. We were both pooped so just left stuff in the car (never had a problem here before). Came out this morning and it's gone. It's from a private carpark, from the middle of a row with the boot reversed up to the wall. Think we were just unlucky that people happened to go into the car park that night to steal shit. It was wheels-off, and was partially covered by other stuff, but that's the way it goes. Lesson learned...

Not expecting to get anything back, but if anyone sees an army green Inspired Arcade kicking around feel free to let me know. Magura MT7 brakes with HC3 blades, Drop And Roll laser etched Hope hubs, chrome Spank Spike rims, Lizard Skins Danny grips, Tripod seat and post, Conti tyres, etc...

I hear Brian Mcculloch spends more time on shameless self promotion than actually doing his job, but then I guess there's not much sun in Scotland to really justify those solar panels anyway.

No worries Can't remember if it covers it in the video, but if you find the chain/wheel slip around in the vice, you can 'pinch' a little triangle of chain (so instead of wrapping around like it normally would, you create a little peak by one tooth by making a little triangle of chain). That stops it being able to spin as it can't force it's way through the vice.

Doooooon't get a chain whip! They're OK for using to undo cassette lockrings, but they're in no way strong enough to take a fixed sprocket off. The amount of calls I got when I was at TartyBikes from shops saying "It's impossible to take off, I've broken ___ chain whips trying" was mental. This is a rough idea of what to do: But essentially, wrap some chain around the sprocket, clamp that in a vice then turn the wheel off. It's best if you've got two people involved - shocking works best, so giving it a 3 count then trying to unscrew simultaneously is the way to go, not just gradually loading it up with more power. Tyre on and inflated to make life easier!

One quick thing - if you're trying to work out whether you've got a front or rear freewheel setup, there's a simple test. Stand the bike up and spin the cranks around backwards. If your chain moves, you've got a freewheel on your rear hub (or a rear freehub, like a Hope). If your chain doesn't move, you've got a front freewheel setup. The Zoot has front freewheel (you'll see people call that "FFW" too), so as said before you'd just need to get a normal 135mm spaced fixed hub for it. You can use your existing rear sprocket from your Zoot, but they can be hassle to get off. If you've got access to a vice and a bit of old chain it's not too bad. Aside from that, you could just get a new sprocket to go with your new hub. The Trialtech Screw-On would be a prime one to go for, and to maintain your standard gear ratio you'd need 14t from memory. You can always count the teeth on your old sprocket to check though.

The Clean K1 bikes are out now! Our bikes landed in the UK a little while ago, but to make sure we had the best bikes possible we held off putting them live until we got hold of the new T13 V2 levers for them. Both 20" and 26" bikes have features such as integrated sprung tensioners, internal cable routing, tapered headsets and more. The 26" also features a unique integrated brake clamp/mount too which makes setup easier. 26" - Weight & Geo: - Wheelbase: 1095mm - Chainstay length: 380mm - BB Rise: 70mm - Head angle: 71.5° - Reach (from centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube): 670mm - Weight: 7.720kg 20" - Weight & Geo: - Wheelbase: 1010mm - Chainstay length: 350mm - BB Rise: 87mm - Head angle: 72° - Reach (from centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube): 610mm - Weight: 6.840kg Some photos: The 26":

Perhaps, but you're forgetting one thing:

Have you even looked at the actual product? I don't think it's really going to suit anyone in this thread...

The thing that jumps out at me when I read stuff like that is that the vast majority are already doing the "Just get it done, don't worry about making it look good" thing but not actually ever refining the moves/line whatever, or doing it without bitch cranks and so on. Being hyper specific, but you can count the number of high level 24" street trials riders who don't put cranks into manny 180s on one hand, and they're vastly outnumbered by people who do. At what point do you stop saying "It's a practise version"? At the moment it seems like from that criteria the majority of videos people put out are full of clips of "practise versions"... I'm a fully paid up member of Team Fussy, as you yourself have called me out for in the past on rides. The reason I do it isn't because I want to make it look good, but because I want it to feel good - it just so happens that when you do things right they tend to look better than when you don't (plenty of 24" videos backing that up, and a reason why high level comp riders who try out street trials look incredibly fish out of water). I can specifically remember one occasion where you've called me out for it in person before was about me not doing a manny 180 as a part of a line, and telling me to put a crank in to make it work, but as Ali said I think that'd hinder me way more than it'd help. EDIT: Just wanted to re-iterate that I really liked that video, and I'm a big fan of your riding

Especially true in frames that have slotted IS mounts.