Mark W

The new Arcade Fuse and Pro bikes have come and gone I think there's supposed to be some new ones coming in pretty soon though, including a possible Team bike in some form.

Plus it comes with a 150mm stem as standard so you've got scope to scale it up to 165mm or 180mm.

Yeah, he still rides - buys from us from time to time

Just caught up with some BMX videos and clocked the Cult 'Something New' video after seeing it as a recommended thing on Youtube. Dan Foley makes riding bikes look so good, it's actually given me the spark to want to ride again. Seeing something other than sloppy as f**k, gash looking, bitch cranky, lack-of-creativity riding is so f**king refreshing.

Cranks will always bed in, so you will always need to re-tighten a new pair of cranks regardless. As mentioned before, ISIS splines sit on a taper so they won't/shouldn't totally bottom out on the end of the spline on the BB axle either. As before, you'll probably be able to tighten the crank onto the BB a lot more if the bolt is actually greased too. It will be feeling way tighter than it actually is simply because of that.

If the Middleburns are older they will have worn in a bit so they will fit better. I've seen people with new cranks that sit a similar distance away from the stopper and they've worked out fine - you just need to keep on top of making sure the crank bolt is tight when you're out riding. You'll be able to get a lot more torque through the crank bolts if they're greased too. It looks like the bolt is dry as are the threads in the BB, so that won't be helping you get them tighter.

The BMX track is pretty fun. The skatepark is fairly average. There was a fun streetier bit to play around on a little further into the park though, although I don't know if it'll still be there. Can see part of it at around 7:30-ish (the start of my bit of the video):

Not sure if they've changed the piston material, but aside from the hose fitting you have to use they'll be pretty much the same, yeah. The MT4/6 calipers have a bit more machining so should be lighter but not by much.

How much grease have you used? Usually the cranks won't bottom out fully against the stopper on the crank arm. There's a very slight taper on the cranks that should stop that from happening. If they're super worn they will do, but not all will. I've had a few combos in the past (Try-All cranks on a Trialtech BB) where there was a bit more of a gap, but without seeing a photo it's hard to say for sure if it's 'right' or 'wrong'.

New cranks will often be really tight on splines - usually just a LOT of grease is the key, on both the splines, the inside of the BB threads, the crank bolt and under the head of the crank bolt too. Tapping the cranks on with a rubber mallet can be fairly common with some new cranks. It's a good sign though, it should mean the cranks last longer and don't end up developing play - if they went on easily it'd be more of a concern.

They base everything on making their products modular so they can hit different OEM price points, that's why they're all so similar. As an end product they're different though. For example, the MT2 now comes with what appears to be regular rim brake hose and a regular barbed fitting rather than a banjo fitting (which makes routing the hose neater/easier/better) and the reinforced Kevlar hose. It's mainly differences in the details like those.

It used to be 2-piece, they've changed to one-piece. They no longer have the same hose as shown in that photo, they've switched to a different fitting/hose system now as shown on our website.

The hub should fit fine. Are you putting the tensioners on the inside or outside of the dropouts? Both Trialtech Sport Disc (M6 bolts, 5mm allen key head) and Sport HD Disc (M10 bolts, 8mm allen key head) hubs fit the Console. They're all 135mm spaced so you shouldn't have any issues. It might be the frame itself is tight for some reason, but if you only need to splay the frame a small amount that's not so bad. If it's majorly out then it suggests something is up.

I got battered by Ali into doing them the 'right' way - getting your weight really far forward is the main thing really. I learnt them brakeless then had to relearn them again when I had brakes as I kept pulling them when I didn't need to as grabbing a handful of brake is my default reaction to "I'm not sure what's happening" situations. On a 24 though just getting your weight forward and really pushing through to let the bike just roll up works super well.

This. Too low and it's just harder to keep that momentum going upward, or you have to do a really weird (and not representative of going bigger) hop into it. The brakes vs. brakeless things is work playing with too. When I rode my Purple Sky and was doing hooks on the natural-ish stuff (not much of it actually vert, generally just weird shaped stuff) at Blackpool, quite often I'd do myself over because I'd default to pulling the brakes, and that would kill my momentum. Learning to hold off doing that and just keep it brakeless and just use your body to preload/move the bike instead made life a lot easier.

Found the best (i.e. non-shittest) way is to have it so the seat is on the rear/rear bump with the nose pointing upwards, then line up the rear prongs on the post with the saddle, then use two hands on the post to push down and kind of rotate them further into place. If you hold the bottom end of the post in one place with your one hand then press down at the top of the post with your other to get it to properly seat and click into place you'll be fine. Once they're in you can slip the spacer in up front, then compress the front end closed and enjoy the "Oh f**k are these threads stripping?" feeling as the first couple of threads on the bolt just about make contact. Once you've got it done they're bueno though, prefer the shape/feel/look/weight of them by far From the perspective of the tenant, Adam's right. I live in a shithole in Preston and over the past year or so I've lived there, after the initial people who lived there moved out it's had a relatively high turnover of residents. These have ranged from a Nigerian lady who was super polite, friendly, made big pots of delicious food and left them out for anyone to try through to one of the present c**ts who lives with me who's got bailiffs coming round for his stuff, has his friends come round (and ring the doorbell to get his attention) in the middle of the night, has never cleaned, leaves stuff lying around everywhere and is in general a subhuman piece of shit. What I'm getting at is that if you're opening your place up to everyone, you'll inevitably get some dickheads, but most will range from tolerable to cool. I wouldn't let one guy trying to dick you over put you off letting again. If the letting agency you plump for are anything as shit as the ones my landlady farmed us out to, you're going to be paying out a bunch of money for f**k all.

Which bits are you looking at replacing? For things like the tyres, you'd just need a 20" tyre up front and a 19" on the rear (the tyre will likely say "20 x 2.50" on it, but it lies). Grips are a one-size-fits-all affair. Any HS33 style pads will fit on the rear brake, and any V-Brake pads will fit up front. The headset looks to be a normal standard/regular headset rather than integrated or internal, and the BB is just a square taper type. You'd probably want a 127.5mm spindle to make sure that it all clears nicely.

Bonus super fun fact: The Nukeproof Electron Evo pedals are now called the Nukeproof Neutron pedals, despite the Neutrons being the name of the previous generation of alloy pedals Nukeproof did (the Inspired Team style ones). Nice work, Nukeproof

Just to clarify it a little, the plastics are the Comps, the alloy ones are the Pros. Been using the Pros for quite a while now - prefer the body shape of them to the Electrons, they feel a little more concave-y/less convex-y than the Electrons did to me. Seem to be holding up well in general too.

You can track pretty much anything on any service on trackitonline.ru. We use it for our Royal Mail ISF parcels as they give more detailed info about Royal Mail shipments than Royal Mail themselves...

Sam Nichols used it to strip a powdercoated Inspired frame from what I can remember - should be fine

Something new: Just laced these up for Carthy to test - some new Trialtech double wall rims. These are ridiculously stiff (for those who've tried them, they're up there with Spank rims), and laced up super nicely. From giving them a grind they're a pretty hard alloy so should work well in terms of brake performance, especially with the extra boost from that inner wall too. Weight is around 570g so fairly light considering their rigidity/stiffness. Be cool to see how they work out

When it suits him, yes... Regarding this, it was because a simple explanation was all that would have been needed. It would have clarified it straight away and it would have been kept on topic, rather than the cloak and dagger stuff. As a result of mentioning it, Barbara kindly provided a wealth of info about the status with BC which has cleared that all up. Now that's out in the open, it's easier to work out what to do next. Transparency helps every time, rather than just trying to make things appear all secretive for no reason whatsoever. If it's only raised in the AGM it also means it's just within those 4 walls, so for people who can't make it it doesn't seem particularly fair as it's already been mentioned here. By just giving a straight forward explanation before hand it also means that time isn't wasted at the AGM having to explain it there, and plans can be made for how to deal with it in future rather than having to wait, find out what the score is then go from there. Cheers for that Barbara, it's always been something I've been interested by but that's the first clear summary of it. Thanks

Fair play to whoever answered with: "I've never entered a competition" "I don't ride trials any more" "I don't need trial parts" "you have no chance." Slow weekend or something?