Mark W

They're not SL forks. If you particularly want to use low profile clamps you can run washers underneath, as said before. Clamps + washers = less weight than "heavy" clamps.

When we first got them in the mounts looked pretty low - checked them with a few different clamps and they fitted fine. The Racing Line clamps are anomalous in a way, they're not made with the same dimensions as other clamps in the sense they have a weird slot spacing, but they're also mega thin/low profile to save weight. This means the cylinders sit nearer the frame/fork, so in this case it's catching the fork. The curve on the rear of the brake mount itself doesn't quite match the curve of the fork leg, but they still seem to be square (having checked a set of ours): Apologies for the shit photo, it's dark-ish in here so hard to really get it to show up.

I usually have a coffee before/as I'm climbing so it sounds like something like that might be useful for me, although when I looked into it the other day it looked £30-35~ which is a little out of my price range for something to try on the off chance.

Tocco levers were made wrong from the get go. We (by which I mean Cap) stripped down and fixed each lever (requiring some time on the lathe) before they got sent out, and we've had no issues with them. Simple fixes that Tensile could have done themselves, especially as we pointed it out as soon as we first got them/they were first shown, but they just didn't. A waste really because they were good levers, especially at that price. They've been discontinued now though so I guess that's a moot point.

It's not just the materials, you miss out on the BAT adjustment and have a slightly fiddlier reach adjust, but that's about it really. Thing with the SLXs, as most Shimano brakes, is that the pad knock is pretty bad on them. It's possible to work around that, but they're not that fit-and-forget. For me having used BB7s for a good few years and used hydraulic discs too, I just prefer the lever feel on hydraulic brakes, plus I didn't find my BB7s were all that maintenance/f**king around free. The adjusters used to wind themselves off, and they took a bit of looking after to keep the lever feel reasonably decent. Under £100 I think I would go for a BB7 though simply because of the cost of them. You could get a really, really good setup for comfortable under £100 that'd need less fiddling with than a sub-£100 hydraulic brake. The BB7/SD7 combo rules, and with a cheap SLX rotor, some Trialtech pads and a cable of your choice you're set.

I'm a little tardy to the party, but nice photos Karl!

I expect the results will be interesting. EDIT: ...should probably point out that's mainly because all the steel PM mounts I've seen haven't been great. I think it works pretty well for aluminium where you can get tech with the shape and have a pretty sizeable/supportive mount, but not so much with steel. For the adaptors, the majority of ones I've seen break have tended to go in the 'arms' rather than the bolt part, so with how tall that Hope mount sits I think you'd still possibly have similar-ish issues. That said, Hope adaptors seem to be some of the best out there so it'd probably be fine.

That's what I meant before though - if you're running a 203mm, you'd still need to run an adaptor as they're usually just in either 160mm or 180mm positions as standard. This is what the Hope +20mm mounts look like to give you an idea: We've got info on the 26" frames up now for those interested. Geo, with a 400 x 35 fork, is: WB: 1085mm CS: 380mm BB: 70mm HA: 71.5° Reach: 665 or 670ish at a guess Weight: 1.6~kg (TBC) They're £329, so a little more than the 20" frame but still pretty cheap for what's a nice frame.

Can't work out the Youtube URLs from the new Dig player, so here are some links: This up for the 48hrs, but well worth watching if you've not seen Still United: http://digbmx.com/videos/christian-rigal-still-united-full-part This up for 4eva but well worth watching anyway: http://digbmx.com/videos/mike-gray-haro-2016

That is true, although that's essentially the same as the +20mm IS mounts on the Skye V3 and the new Fourplay frames (which have the same dropout, albeit machined out for a 10mm axle):

Word. Been in January, February and March and they were all pretty ideal. Shorts, T-shirts, ice creams, errrrryday.

It shows what happened in the rest of the comp, and what happened to him/his friends? I liked how it wasn't a normal super slow mo/dubstep comp review type video. There were some funny bits in there.

Ah, cool - I haven't actually checked their website out before. Retard... And yeah, plenty of 20" options! Bearing in mind 2 of those 20" sizes come in 2 different brake mount options that's a lot of frames. With the disc mounts it's kind of a tricky one. For a standard 160mm post mount it's not too bad, but for a +20mm style mount they're pretty hefty. Adaptors going from IS to Post are also a bit more common. I'd imagine more shops have facing tools for an IS Mount as well (plus facing PM frames sucks anyway). We'll see what happens though I suppose, PM does seem to be the preferred choice nowadays by a reasonable margin.

In fairness Andy's been making videos like that for a long time now Looked like a fun time though! American scene seems to be getting better and better.

Good detective work Where did you find those?

I'm running my Pro 2 on my Arcade with no tensioners - no movement yet. Clean dropouts, shitloads of grease, everything's fine.

Yes and no - basically, they're 135mm spaced so you'd need to run them on the outside of your frame, or just squeeze a single drive-side one inside the frame too. Just using a single cam with the Hope hubs isn't too bad simply because of how tight you get those M10 axle bolts.

Even though you weren't there with a bike I still hope you acknowledged how plentiful and incredible the spots are Really want to go back to Barca, such a cool place.

As and when we get the seats for the frames I expect we'll be posting up about them, so your wish will be granted at some stage... Not 100% sure on the value of it, although I guess as Jitsie aim at the mototrials guys too having a more 'normal' looking bike/just having a saddle might be a draw for them.

Ah, downer - wasn't sure if it was just the usual hot day/filming in direct sunlight issue, but that does sound a little f**ked...

It's 25.4mm-ish. Not sure if Jitsie are planning on putting out a quill style post, or whether the seat tube tapers slightly so you just wedge it in...

Some news from Jitsie which might be of interest to some - they're launching their range of frames, which you've probably already seen people like Adam Morewood and Nico Vallée riding. The 20" frames are first up, in either 970mm or 1010mm WB options, in 4-Bolt or Disc. They're a pretty simple design, but should hopefully be nice and tough. Internal headtube, 116mm spacing, 68mm regular shell, 4-bolt Ozonys-style bash mount - compatible with most setups. One slightly unique thing about them is the seat tube arrangement. Shown here they have a silicone bung covering the top of it, but Jitsie are also launching a seat/post setup so you can run a seat if you want to. Geo, measured with the Jitsie Varial forks, is: WB: 1010/970mm CS: 350mm BB: +80mm HA: 71.5° Reach: 600/570mm

That place is pretty legit - the guy who runs it (I think...) is the same person who's running Adam's old MX5 race car, and Adam's Mk3 used to belong to him too. Genuine guy. I think I've had a couple of bits and pieces from him through Adam before too.

...but for serious, fair play for Andrei getting that comp organised. Not a huge fan of the WR stuff, but the main riding event looked pretty legit from the admittedly limited media I've seen from it so far. Having an event like that actually make trials look cool is a massive rarity.

Worth installing Magic Lantern on it and keeping an eye on the sensor temperature if it's a hot day/you're doing long records? It won't change much about it, but I guess you can keep an eye on it and if it starts creeping up you can turn the camera off for a little bit and open it up (e.g. memory card door) to let a bit of heat dissipate. At least that way you're being ahead of it rather than having to react to it going "f**k you buddy" mid-clip.