Alex Dark

Lathe or a mill

Both my front and rears did this due to, I think worn nipples on the slaves. Changed out to tnn in the end

Wigan : The old plaz backing a were curved, the newer ones are the same form as the magura backing

Id say a 127 27 stem personally, nice bike though I love mine.

The above I'm pretty sure is a 2 finger blade. Only choices are to my knowledge rb designs, fresh products and possibly an echo tr lever blade

Do not use a screwdriver on the threads, it's possible to chase any damaged portion of the thread with a very small file if necessary

Try turning the cog around and screwing it on, if it won't that points to the cog and that's your answer, if it does then try another cog / ffw on the cranks to check them

Ride with flipp and was massively impressed, but surely Williams is right .... Brake less is limiting to some extent

2006 hope mini lever, fitted to all the hope brakes form that age I think. 2007 style levers fit but are smaller, so less leverage and ultimately less power

I'd say worth nearer 330-380

Yeh it probably wont work to be fair but was interesting doing it anyway.

Thats a pretty sweet idea... really similar! Basically your foot sits into the pedal more, for instance I hate echo pedals ( dunno which ones they are, the real flat platform ones ) and love my mates v12s he hacked into with a grinder... with knackered pins i slipped far less than with my mg1's and felt more secure too. Id either have to do it as a step, or program a 3d toolpath and it really wasnt worth the hassle...that was just done on a manual mill by eye in under 20mins as a bodge.

Got bored after work the other day and had nothing to do so had a bash at combining the best BB axle i had ( reset ti ) with the best cups/bearings i had ( echo external ) The idea was to replace the inner sleeves that sit between the bearings and axle ( and cover the outer surfaces of the bearings ) with new Stainless versions ( same as orig. ) that would change the axle diameter from 25mm to the reset's 21.5mm, also to account for the narrower offset between bearings ( by making each top hat sleeve longer by half the difference). Here's the toolpath.... Drilled out to 21~mm then bored out to 21.5mm with a small screwcutting bar. ( left u/s by 0.01mm to be polished out ) turned the inner end to 25mm ( +\- 0.005mm ) allowing the bearings to tap on. External groove to create the chamfer you can see from the outside Parted off at .4 mm o/s Faced to length, then polished to give tap fit onto axle. Finished product; yet to fit and try. For anyone thats interested im a bit of a newb to this, but using an XYZ 425 prototrak. Hopefully give a nice light BB but with decent bearings......if this doesnt work ill just get some Enduro bearings and rebuild it as a full Reset unit anyway. Also modded my Mg1's; didnt fancy cutting or milling the centres but needed them to be more concave...so used a ball nose and removed most of the material and left some nice little grooves for grip

The older z3r is bang on.... The newer one as stated above is too high a bb rise for its wb

Whole bike price, sorry

As above ... Zhi z3r frame , no dents quite a few scratches Tt maggie forks Try all h0le on king singlespeesld rear, sticky lite tyre Try all h0le on monty disc hub, try all tyre Zhi 3d stem Viz pro 720 bars 04 Maguras, rb blades , real cousts, tr mounts Burns with the bash, mg1s Need to know how much I could actually sell this for, cheers http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/9463648/

It's just an oxide coating though ? And as you stated its only a few microns thick.... Maybe enough to help resist scratches but surely not enough to affect the parts core strength unless its mega thin? I know next to f**k all about anodising but im pretty sure dreis are silver, and reasonably sure that even the silver echo bits are anodised to prevent against corrosion?

The try all cranks did also come in black; and no doubt they were made originally in china or thereabouts.

Get some slx cranks ..... Rockshox revelation forks are pretty good; I like my dual airs a lot

They use servowave, so the leverage point "ramps " up toward the end of the lever stroke giving more power and less travel

Looks like someone's college project to me:.... Few solid works renderings and some word art

Hah,Really? Tar always turned lethal when i got it even slightly damp

Ali: I've heard this also, but as no one else lists the durometer I'm a bit stuck.... The maxxis beaver is ideal apart from the hard compound thanks though Small block 8 Is something else I've tried and wasn't too impressed with ( too hard again )

Heyho just looking for some advice; Running a stiky lite rear an stiky front but looking to replace soon. I've been looking fairly fruitlessly on the interweb, especially for a front tyre and have only found 3 that seem to fit the bill..... Does anyone know of any equal alternatives? Ive looked at maxxis, panaracer intense, Hutchinson , continental and michelin ( what's on crc and wiggle anyway ) Front: sub 500gr, 45a or softer durometer, folding bead, 2.0-2.3 Hipefully around £30 Rear : as similar to my old tryall as possible ( probably just get the same again if not ) <£52 Found these: http://www.nextdaytyres.co.uk/details.aspx/CONTINENTAL-RACE-KING-MARK-II-MTB-26/165 which seem the closest so far Cheers

I'm considering the change from 16:14 to 16:13... Still not too sure; here's a calculator for you: http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html