Alex Dark

Well impressed with your work Sunny! Ive got a few renderings from when I did my college course...and what it looked like before being modelled / after being made

Just started a new job where im using solidworks a hell of a lot. Looking to try and optimise our design times, but cant really work out exactly how to go about this. Im designing hydraulic cylinders, so i have to draw / extrude the tubes and rods then drag and drop the pistons/headbushes/backends etc into the assembly ( this is assuming ive already drawn them, ive got a fair catalogue now ) then dimension and annotate the drawings - usually taking me about 1hr 20mins for a full set of drawings ready to be machined. This could all be made so easy with driveworks express, and ive had a look at the video below. Its a pretty heavy undertaking so some guidance would be appreciated! Seems like its just lots of rules that need to be implemented ( e.d depending on which headbush, the thread depth and clearance depth has to change .... or .... with a different style of cylinder a different piston could be used. The end goal is literally to have a form to fill out like: Cylinder type: Stroke Closed centres Port sizes Pin hole dia. Then solidworks could generate a model and all relevant drawings automatically. To do this though literally everything would have to be linked, and each model would have to have some characteristics assigned to it surely? Any help would be massively appreciated.... Alex

Havent seen a down-gap to front for years haha Really enjoyed that

Entire axle Im afraid!

Trialtechs ive seen a couple of pictures of them going at the HS mounts, and a fair few of the rockmans dying at the steerer. The above problems could well have been cured by the latest iterations of both products

Bit of a weird one... the stock onza rims as pictured are great...but the mod ones just will not hold a grind...who knows what the 24 versions would be like ( that's if they are as i assume made in the same factory and just re-branded Kabra )

Agree with Ali. get the forks that will last longer.

All edges need to be heavily chamfered/ filleted. What price are you looking at selling them for? They look to be cut out on a routercam or basic CNC mill...if not why not try something a little more adventurous? I wouldn't have said the asymmetric idea is a good one... surely it's just going to be more weight on one side / more flex on the other? Have you had this design put through FEA or any kind of load analysis?

Great video..the song is by RJD2, and from Roam or the Collective

I can't really understand why they didn't get this project off the ground a couple of years ago...they had access to the zoot 24" parts ( front wheel would still be usable etc ) and just taking the most popular mod and stock geo and taking an average would have made a really good frame Comparatively, id say an echo 24's pretty cheap. The only frames cheaper than echo aren't great. Pictures or it didn't happen?

Cant see any pictures of me riding... but this is my first bike I thought was a trials bike haha Earliest picture of me riding I could find... parallel rolling gap

How much it affects the strength is really controlled by how far you go with your " mods " A simple headtube cut as round on the echo pure 2011 and nicely finished I can't really see breaking... Whatever you do, make sure you stay well away from the welds, and finish it all off with as bigger radius in the corners as possible to help minimise stress risers. I I cut my bionic headtube out with a drill and angle grinder... basically get the rough shape you want and finish carefully with files, then coarse sandpaper...then something like 320 W+D I really wouldn't bother with the seat tubes....or any tubing. the amount of weight there you can save is just ridiculously small compared to the CNC chunks ( wall thickness of the seat tube might be 1.6mm, whereas on the headtube it could be up to 4mm Cutting the middle section of your pedals is going to depend what pedals you have, and whether you have good quality sealed bearings, On older mod frames with bash plates you could trim maybe 200gr off, but with something like your because or that echo the possible amount of weight to be saved is fairly minimal! Very picture heavy, but below are some mods I did to my old B4r Edit: and this one I like for some reason?

Definitely wont be the old ones...and from memory the old ones weren't even particularly good anyway

All the hopes ive had have been pretty underwhelming. The best brake ive had ( and have now ) is either an avid bb7 with a 185 rotor on a stock, or a front magura with coust pads

04 mags, echo external BB, rb blades.

Broke 2 of the silver ones, one i re-welded to last another 2 weeks before it snapped. As Nick says the black ones are balls, but just usable. There's one they made before the current (post 07 ), and before the older style ( pre 07 ) that if i remember correctly was stronger and slightly heavier duty. Otherwise, those Onza cable discs seem to have lots of power and I personally haven't seen one snapped. Edit: £30 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17722

The viz freewheel I had was utter shit.... in contrast the tensile 96 is on a par with the SL on my spare bike

Chuck some stem stackers underneath the stem to achieve the same effect if possible

if it's faded I doubt anything will get back the lustre... either strip them raw or leave them I'd say

mig weld a very small bar to the top of the bolt drill the bolt head off hacksaw between the mounts ( you will obviously damage the mount this way ) to cut the bolt in two. That will enable you to remove the brake gubbins and just grab the exposed bolt end with mole grips

Less haste, more speed.... https://vimeo.com/43516155 Embed won't work for me, just says the video doesn't exist?

Proper return to form on the video front I reckon! Haven't enjoyed one of yours so much since Street Training...

AS above... little edit from a few hours in Truro

The sprocket and arm come off together, profiles are incredibly crude in that their "tool" is in essence a bolt you threadd into the bb axle, hold onto the crank arm, and twat top push the bottom bracket out of the axle ( as opposed to pulling the crank arm off the axle ). There is an aftermarket puller that sits under the bulge in the crankarm and works like a traditional sq taper/isis puller . If youre handy in the workshop making one wouldn't be ridiculous

In reply to Jack Iveson, he got it from Ares who posted in the topic. Bike looks really nice, best looking GU ive ever seen and to Andeee, posting up a picture of a snapped frame when the guys clearly pretty proud of his bike is a pretty ghey thing to do surely? Any bike will break if you beat it to shit, and we all know why they tend to break at the fore bash mount...im sure stunt man T is more than aware!