Le @ Tnn Engineering

If you've even got the smallest amount of oil on your pads (during the bleed) there gone. Sand .5mm off them or even better replace them. It's fair to say it's very easy to have oil leak down your slave cylinders onto your pads.

PM me your address and I'll send you new clamps.

Alot of these line are bigger than they look. I think it's Lewis's hugeness which can be deceiving.

Slo mo the best mo. Very cool

Billiant!

You got the skills to pay the bills.

The two lines riden where epic! One way to know if you bb is about to go is the cranks are starting to bend out of line or look like there drooping.

Mr Mcarthur how you liking the dual maggies? Your front brake is out of control and you rear sound partially sweet!! What compounds are you running f and r? 2:09 You know the you want the post to post gap. The trials world wants it too. Are we going to see it on the next vid?????

Me too.

If you have tried everything and no joy. There is a high chance your pads are contaminated beyond salvation. Change you pads and grind you rim then you should be laughing. Bawhaha. Lewis recently had a wheel built with oil as lube for the spoke nipple. It leaked onto the rim and the pads and no matter what we did the brake would not hold and sounded quite. We finally replaced the pads and all was normal again. So what happened is the equivalent of getting oil on your disc pads. The oil had soaked into the polyurethane which caused huge brake failure. Even sanding the braking surface clean didn't help. Bottom line is oil and brake don't mix.

After years of the same issues. Echo TR steel cams are my dream come true. They work very well no dramas,end of problems.

That's a sweet shade of green. Powder coating is the only way to go far superior to spray paint. You can organise custom powder coating colours but it's very expensive. All I can suggest is keep looking for someone who has the right shade of green in powder. Or settle for a different colour. But whatever you do don't spray it's gay. Scratches off too easily. Sorry if this isn't much help.

LGM last for forever. So if you number 1 priority is performance riders like TRA and Joe Brewer just grind as harsh as possible for peak power. (new thicker disc,steep angle,fast movement,moderate pressure 1-2kg of force,only grind in a pulling direction) One other trick is stop the grinder after grinding about .5 metre of rim and pick off any chucks of aluminum stuck on the disc. This will keep the wheel from clogging up and flattening out your perfect grind.

It such a pain to have to file your magura mounts to get them truly flat. But it's very common on pretty much every frame to have some misalignment in the mounts. But on a brighter note it's worth the trouble and time.

Wet run in works well.

I've been playing with Vee's front and rear on my comp bike for a while now. It's a fantastic combination LGM for all out power Belaey's for a little more modulation.

This is personal thing but a maggie gives more instant bite allowing the wheel to lock and shift your weight forwards. Most riders who have ridden both find the maggies have helped that's mainly on stock. On a mod the difference is less noticeable due to the smaller wheel to rotor size ratio.

Only reason why the compounds are split front and back is to optimize the qualities of both compounds for reverse and forwards braking. Some riders like to run one LGM one one side and a Belaey on the other too. The LGM last longer then the Belaeys but generally the front half (LGM) will wear faster then the back so it evens out nicely. This is unless you use your rim brake to slow down a lot.

The modulation of the Belaey pads is due to the compound not the chamfered edges. During testing we had no issues with the individual pad adhesion to the backing been any different reliability wise to a standard TNN pad.

Dirt Jumper Jake Wow I'm impressed never seen this happen. If your willing to send the backing back to us for a look there's a very good chance we'll cover it under warranty even if it is second hand. Tnnengineering.com for mailing address Thanks Le.

Alle For awesome braking. LGM + HARSH GRIND -Use a NEW 4mm thick metal grinding disc. -Hold grinder at 45 degrees to the rim. -Apply some pressure while grinding and move the grinder with some speed. This will make the grind harsher. -Only grind the rim on the pull stroke (towards yourself) grinding in the push stroke can cause the grinding wheel to dig in. -stop the grinder after 1 foot and remove any alum on the grinding wheel. -Repeat until finished. One last thing as in this video grind with the tyre on and wheel still in bike.

Alle If your after a good front pad go the Belaeys on a super light grind for modulation and power. But as you asked for a smooth rim the Beleays bite and lock like a crazed dog. But are totally useless in the wet. I personally like the Beleays for the consistent braking and it's not as grind dependent as the long lasting LGM's Le.

LGM's for urban and On and Off braking. Belaey's for more modulation and natural riding. That's just a general guide but plenty of people ride LGM's for natural and Belaey"s for urban.

Wow usually the LGM's can take longer to bed in. Must have done a sweet job setting up your brakes.

On a light grind I personally don't think the lgms are the best choice. They are generally best for med to harsh grinds for wet and dry conditions. I'd recommend the Belaey pads for a light grind for wet and dry conditions. But if you ride alot of wet conditions I'd go for a harsher grind. Also the Belaey pads are very gentle on grinds we've had rims go for months without a regrind. Bike ridden 2-4 times a week.