cwtrials

haha, that first gap looks big to begin with and he completely overshoots it.

+4. Did Ben just run a shinpad thread into one of the best of all time? P.S. I never wore shinpads, but my left leg was so scarred I didn't have hair growing on the front of it for about 10 years. Shinning hurts like hell. My advice is wear shinpads at least till you haven't needed them for a year, and always if riding in the snow. Kneepads not really, unless you're really a carnage seeker.

! I bought one of Ryan's bikes off pinkbike awhile back, a manifesto with a few prototype parts. It was cool as could be. Also, it was like riding trials on bus made out of turd covered bricks. It made me respect him a million times more. Back to the OP. I really enjoy the triboulat brothers, they are doing some MASSIVE moves with for the most part, a lot of style. (The footplants are rad). Also, remember this is just a few instagram clips from the last couple weeks, not some majorly edited and thought out video. I can't figure out why people get after them so much.

Yeah, I never got anything to work on them. Just get some new rims. With how many brakes pads you've bought you could've done that already. They are light, but not strong and don't brake well.

Not sure I've ever seen anyone do a curb frontflip like this....

Try looking at a couple different bearings? Might be easier than trying to skim off the center.

Yeah. The options vary pretty significant depending on your welding / fabrication skills or lack thereof and your enormous amounts of startup money or lack thereof.

I don't think for street 110mm spacing would give a sturdy enough base. Then for rim brake bikes (like mine, clearing the slave cylinders is the major issue).

lol. Even in trials I'm not normal. I did try it with the Crewkerz bars the other day. I'm going to try several different bar / stem combos to figure out what actually works with this geo. To be fair, I've never broken a frame. Also, so far I am loving the Hope / SLX combo like crazy

Recently I got my Marino 26" frames back. (I have two identical frames, one in blue and one in red). The blue one is the fun build, so here it is. I'll update this thread as I make some changes to it. Geo is 1060, +80, 377, with a 73 degree headtube. Reach is 680. Either you think I'm crazy and the geo is just dumb, or you look at the numbers and think "hey, that sounds like a lot of fun." The long reach allowed me to go with a 130mm stem right off the bat and felt good. The goal is to have something that is more flickable and fun than normal modern pure bikes that still feels decent on rear wheel moves. The shorter wheelbase and slightly shorter chainstay make this manual nicely (not that I know how). I've got to work up some confidence on bigger rolling bunnyhops, but it should be nice. With the super high BB it still does rear moves and sidehops decently with the bars rolled back into a less visually oppressive angle. I liked the idea of MTB cranks and a hope hub on a pure bike. It took a bit more modification / grinding than I would've liked to get the cranks to work. Having the rim brake slave cylinders made the clearance super difficult and I had to sand the pads down to almost nothing and take about 1mm off the back of the drive side crank. At some point when I have some more funds, I may try a boost crank made for a 83mm bb. But so far this setup is AMAZING! It feels so stiff. Front Magura MT7 and rear Trialtech are a super nice combo. The Magura is working like crap since I moved it over, the disc mount must be at a slightly different angle or something. So far the rear trialtech Carthy rim is pretty nice! I love not seeing cutouts and it feels super stiff. The coust pads on it are a amazing. The rear heatsink tensioner is a bit sloppy looking. Originally Marino said he'd be able to fabricate a crewkerz style mount, but then wasn't able to figure it out in the end. Maybe at some point I'll weld one on myself (bonus of steel). Due to the gear ratio on this, there is just a lot of slack to take up. Maybe using a half link would help. I can put a hanger on it and just go with an old school two wheel tensioner too. At some point I will go rear tubeless on this bike. But right not it is fairly cold and my tires just feel like crap no matter what so I'm not stressing it. Tire clearance is a bit of an issue, I had to trim a couple center knobs a mm or two to get it to stop rubbing. The Inspired Arcade bars look incredible, but I am going to try my Crewkerz bars on my next ride. Between the 73 degree head angle and the streety bars, the front end felt so different it was hard to get used to.

Nice! I may give it a try. My slx cranks are on a Marino with rim brakes. I had to shave my pads down to almost nothing to get the cylinders to clear.

So there are a few topics on here about chaining clearance issues with mtb style cranks. Recently I spent a considerable amount of time with an angle grinder to get some slx cranks to work. Would cranks for an 83mm BB and a few spacers fix this issue? My frame has a 73mm BB, so two 2mm spacers in each side and then 2 of the 0.5mm axle washers per side and that'd work...right? Or am I completely missing something

I enjoyed that!

If it doesn't come with dedicated disc mounts don't try any weird adapters. They will not be up to the task of trials.

If you get flats a lot having a fixed rear end is nice. Also the brake pads are always centered. In a year of riding my crewkerz I haven't adjusted the brakes once and have never had to mess with alignment, even after getting a flat. The echo grub screws worked pretty good, but it always seemed I'd have to re-adjust after a few minutes of riding. Snail cams were a huge pain, I'd have to redo them after just about every move. It seems with snail cams if you weighed less than 180 lbs they were fine, but anyone bigger just hated them.

Finally got my Marino in. Sadly there is no way to make the SLX cranks clear the chainstays, even with axle spacers. I had it made with a 73mm BB shell, so I can't really use BB spacers. Ugh. Looking into other options. Anybody up to buy a brand new pair of SLX cranks with basguard? lol

If you don't know who Drew Fortner is, he should be on your radar. He's only been riding for 5 years I think.

Why not use a street trials fork?

Sounds horrible. On a related note I found some echo flats for super cheap.

I guess in theory my steel axle ones would bend first?

lol I do TRY to ride smooth. But once and I while I just go full sack of bricks. There are plenty of riders of 200 lbs though.

I know this is a super opinionated question. In the past I had some echo flats with Ti axles I took off after two years. Now I am running on three years with steel axle echo flat pedals and am starting to wonder when they will break. Somehow I don't like the idea of what a snapped axle could do to my legs. How long do you want before retiring pedals? (or other parts for that matter, my spare parts bin has a handful of bits I took off before breaking)

The one I was looking at buying comes with a BB70. That is a bit helpful thanks! Thanks for the opinion! I do drops I consider big (8'), but I know that's not really huge compared to what you're doing lol. I'll look into the SRAM cranks, thanks for the info!

I'm setting up a trials bike without trials specific cranks for the first time since power pro cranks on my brisa, and honestly haven't really been paying attention to the MTB tech scene since it changes every 3.2 minutes. Trading a frame for a rear hope hub for this setup. Can anyone explain the different between Saint, SLX, and Zee cranks? Obviously Zee is budget friendly, but is there much of a difference? SLX is lighter, but not as strong? I found a good deal on some SLX cranks with bottom bracket in a 22/32/40 combo, compatible with a 104 bcd bashring I have and was thinking of giving that a go.

Maxxis has a new Downhill tire for junior downhill bikes that is almost the exact same as the old 24" holy roller. The Maxxis Minion DHF 3C 24" . Thick sidewall, butyl insert, and soft compound. Been riding it for awhile and it's not light, but reliable.