marg26

I usually use my old 510 Freeriders which are quite flexible. Also have a pair of Scott flat pedal shoes that are stiffer soled with a harder grip compound, but they feel lethal in the wet. Will probably just take a minute or so out to recover, something I'm not used to doing so much with most of my riding being to commute and/or XC style rides. Heard a few people mention Addidas Terrex for MTB, so will have to keep a look out for sale offers.

Is it normal your feet fatigue quite quickly from trials riding? Any recommendations to improve it, foot position, exercises, etc?

New bike built up for daily commuting. Frame & forks are new, set of wheels from shed (which weren't hardcore enough for my hardtail), and everything else donated from my old 26" commuter. Had a mess about trying trials stuff on it last night, is good fun for practicing stuff on the way home, and nippy for getting about on too Will probably have to sort mudguards for it at some point, but don't want to spoil it for now.

Like the mix of entrants ability in this.

Couldn't find a horse videos thread so is posting it here ok?

Go read the tutorials on http://www.trashzen.com/ and watch all those videos recommended to you in your thread from September again!

You're best off asking on singletrackworld.

I spent most of my life thinking exercise was something other people did, and I didn't need to. Now in my early forties wishing I had been more physically active through my twenties and thirties. I've been trying to find an elusive balance over the past couple of years, cycling on daily commutes (4 miles each way), and trying to gain upper body strength/mobility/flexibility through taking bits and pieces from bodyweight exercise/stretching/yoga. If I do too much cycling, especially off road or attempting basic trials stuff, then I have to cut right back on exercises that involve bending elbows and flexing wrists (ie push ups, inverted rows, pull ups, planks, handstands against wall etc). Likewise if I do too much of those exercises I have to cut back on the off road cycling and trials-like stuff. But then strengthening my upper body is also helpful to my riding. I had a heavy landing over a couple of weeks ago which slammed my left wrist. I was reading a thread on here which recommended Controlled Articular Rotations (CARs). There's videos on Youtube demonstrating so I picked one and have been loosely following that. CARs on the left wrist have to be taken carefully, it's painful in flexion*. It seems to be slowly improving, but taking longer than previous instances. Cycling distance has been cut down, and still doing a few short sections of light off-road. It's frustrating to say the least. * standing with elbows at side, forearms horizontal, hand pointing upwards palm forwards.

It's a shame about the timing, but no worries. If I really like the older version (assuming I'm actually going to get it, lol) then I'll probably get this new one too.

Ahhh. How long has it been out? Come Christmas day, I might have to fake happiness with the previous version :-(

Finally got round to looking at it last night, yes, it's the one that appears to prevent the bearing falling out from the freehub. Agree it doesn't appear to do much. The circlip was the first thing I removed before deciding I should probably look at some howtos and diagrams.

Discovered the hub bearings need replacing so partially dismantled the hub to inspect. The freehub bearings seem ok, but the hub bearings don't turn freely and feel like crap. Decided while waiting for bearings to be delivered to put it back together so I can ride. Got the whole thing back together and wheel in frame, and it was only when tidying up I discovered the internal circlip on the floor. Woops. How important is it? I've been out for a hour long ride this morning and completely forgot about it, so hoping it will be ok for another ride or two until I dismantle and replace the bearings.

Yes giving it a bleed worked.

Rear hub will need to match rear dropouts. Guessing that the '09 Boardman is a standard QR (135x10), whereas modern frames are 142x12 or 148x12 (Boost), with Boost becoming the way things are going.

Think mine is more pdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdl freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeewheeeeeeeeeeel pdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdlpdl freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeewheeeeeeeeeeel. lol.

An uncanny number.

Anyone use Strava when out on their trials/street-trials bike? I've been using it for a few years so just carried on using it on the trials bike, got my HR monitor on too. It slightly amuses me to use Strava for rides where distance/speed/endurance aren't objectives. Plus it can help remember spots I've found.

I thought of this thread today. Went out for a ride along the coast. Trying to take it a little bit easy to avoid getting too sweaty in the cold weather due to yet another cold+cough. 99% home, around the 8 mile mark, riding into a headwind I just had enough and got off and walked. 22:16 is such a chore for getting anywhere especially when there's a head wind.

I read this entire thread a few days ago. Now he stops posting!? I feel let down.

Front does look a bit low compared with (taken from Bike Pics thread)

Before I got my first street trails bike recently, I was hoping to be able to get away with general a-to-b riding on it from time to time (specifically an 8 mile round trip commute with fun spots on the way home). After riding it I've pretty much thrown that idea out the window. Coming from MTB too, yes your weight does feel over the front on bunny hops etc but there's like a universe worth of space to move your body position on a trials bike it's not exactly a problem, just need time to adjust. Find it difficult to believe a long low slack enduro 650b MTB is better on pump tracks than a Hex? I thought the recieved wisdom was shorter bikes better there?

From Friday but <various excuses here>. I've whittled 40 clips and 7gb of footage down to these ahem "best bits": Need to find solution to wind noise on Yi 4K camera.

-nevermind-

The MT7 brake on my bike gets real squidgy when feathering the lever, such that it doesn't take too long before the lever reaches the bar with continued feathering. Release the lever however and then do a hard grab of the brake and it reverts back to normal. It's not great when feathering on approach to an obstacle to find the power's gone just as you need it. Have you experienced this? Does it just need a good bleed or something else?