Krisboats

It's not just aesthetic, if you run a post mount style brake (avid with the post adapter etc) then all that is holding the brake from normal rotational forces are the threads in the mount and on the bolts.

I noticed that when going to static switch an obstacle. I do it to my wrong side so the effect is more apparent but i find the engagement point of my hope is usually with the pedal near enough on the object or too high for comfort. Normally i just reposition so its not a problem but i'd imagine a better rider wouldn't want the loss of time in a hard section.

+1 for people putting their name in their sig instead of writing it everytime. The inneficiency of someone typing it each time bugs me

Pretty gutted i couldn't make it this time. Bloody work. Looks like you all had a good time.

Well i did say i only skim-read the topic. I knew it was one of the two setups gave more 'effective' engagements.

Yep, 18:15 is good. Personally i'd stick the freehweel on the front, theres some technical reason for it to engage quicker at the front than the back (i skim read it a while ago so wouldn't wan't to explain it in too much detail) that i think is to do with the cranks rotating quicker than the wheel so gives you more effective engagements per rotation. Main benefit really is the even weight distribution. Having a heavy back end can make manouverability a bit more tyresome.

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Yeah, setting off soon.

Well that'll depend entirely on which gametype you select and how good the other online players are.

128mm ISIS giga pipe team DH. It's a little grindy but it goes round.

Ha ha, knees in the armpits. Classic.

It's plugged into the mains? Could you be a bit more specific?

You finished it on legendary?

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I'm actually surprised by the forum for once, in a very positive way. I was expecting loads of people to post up saying they'd drop them straight away and find the other guy and smash his head in as the average age on here is quite young. I'm happy to be mistaken in that a lot of people accept it's largely circumstantial. I wouldn't really know how to answer unless i ever find myself in that situation. I think it's somewhat engrained in us nowadays that it's best to leave if your partner cheats, out of self respect. Although i'd be inclined to say that i think sticking with them and getting through it can command just as much respect as doing "the right thing".

The alu tnn bash has 15% wider teeth which makes it only single speed chain compatible. I guess that would help wear life a bit. I'd love to buy one and turn into into a half ring, but at £89 i don't think i could bring myself to do it. Has anyone who's used an alloy chainring give a comment as to how long they last?

That's awful but i can see why they would, it's a lot of kit you had there. If i spot anything on ebay etc i'll be sure to let you know.

What are the differences in wear time between the tnn 18tooth alloy bashring and the steel middleburn one? I imagine the allow would wear faster but for the price difference and weight difference i wonder if normal everyday use would see such a great difference between their lifespans? I shall be looking at getting one if my cranks ever turn up but have to make my mind up at some point, which i'd rather do well informed. Also, the 16t version of the middleburn ring offers very little in the way of chain protection due to the low height of the bash compared to the chain. Is this the same for the tnn bashring? In reply to the OP i had several kmc chains snap fairly quickly running the 16t bash, but a KHE would last several months to a year before being replaced. Obviously though the KHE does give a slight weight penalty and is prone to stiff links. The 16t middleburn ring was a nice piece of kit, but i don't think i'd run that ratio again. The heatsink site is down for me?

He won't be complaining at that, he loves being the centre of attention We'll have to do a Leicester ride again soon as there's some stuff i would love to try round there.

The koxx sky bikes have a very high front end to compensate for the high bottom bracket though. The levelboss will have a flat bottom bracket, so putting a similar stem as designed for the sky frames will result in the balance point on the back wheel being fairly sluggish on your koxx.

Very nice dude. Nice and relaxed, well edited, good angles. I liked very much. P.s. Cheers for filming me for those couple of clips, usually too busy filming to get any clips of myself in videos.

I think halo has it's flaws yes, but as a product Reach feels very well produced with lots of action and fairly nice visuals. I'm on like level 3 on legendary but off to go get some food from town now. It plays a lot faster than halo 3, enemies also seem far tougher by comparison. but the atmosphere and planet all seem well dialled aside from some buggy lines flicker-appearing in the middle of the sky during one cutscene. Excited about the prospect of online with the speed of single player action. krisboats2 if anyone fancies it later.

No, trials riser bars tend to have more up and back sweep on them. Making standard handlebars look rather flat by comparison. I used onza carbons as a transition from flat bars then recently i've moved onto monty's and now viz bars. Flat bars aren't very nice, i would ditch them if i were you. on a 1065 a really long stem will see you quite far over the front of the bike, which can feel a little unnatural. At 5'10" i'd be inclined to go for something between 100 and 120mm with maybe 10-15 degrees of rise. Then a nice set of riser bars to compliment it.

Rock pad blues are still to this day the best pads i've ever used. Plazmatic CRM's are great too but lose out massively in the wet.