forteh

Not sure, Im not familiar with the t-pro chainstays Looks like this..... (photo taken with bike upside down obviously )

Woo, me @ 1.10 (hiding behing bigman :$ ) Since I first met callum last autumn, his bike control has got loads better, still not smoth and dialled but alot of progress Im dissapointed that the brand didnt make an appearance

I would leave it, likely to only crack if its creased across the tube. Chances are it is a relatively thin tube compared to an aluminium one of the same size so more susceptable to denting, if it does crack then get it welded and stick a thin plate on there as armour plating - my triton frame has small bashplates welded on exactly where your dent is and Ive caught one of them on a wall, couple of scuffs but nothing else, because the plate is only welded top and bottom its not stressed and is unlikely to crack. The plate only needs to be 1-1.5mm thick to do its job

I will probably be there, hoepfully more than 3 people will turn up, unlike the last brum ride

Cant help with the chainline but your cat is sexy

But dont buy a modstock frame because that can then cause expensive wheel rebuilds when you want to try a normal frame BTW modstock = 26" frame with 116mm rear hub spacing and horizontal dropouts, as opposed to normal stock with the standard 135mm rear hub spacing

Ive seen a 5 year old levelboss frame take an 8 foot drop with a 15stone bloke on board, they are very strong, the same frame is still going Also alot heavier than the new koxx frames but hey its not gonna snap on you

As said, if you stick with one of the deng frames (echo/zoo/adamant/gu) then you will have no problems with a 2nd hand one unless its been absolutely thrashed (which would be apparant from photos). I would offer you my echo hifi frame for 65 quid but the geometry really isnt that nice, the BB is too high for the reach of the frame; you wouldnt snap it though The common cracking frames are generally from monty and koxx, but these are both aimed almost solely at the competition market and as such are designed to be light to gain the advantadge - you wouldnt go banger racing in an F1 car About the only exception to this rule is the koxx levelboss, I seem to remember them being bombproof.

You couldnt go much far wrong with a t-rex for starters Personally I would look at a 2nd hand frame off here and spec it out with components that you want form tarty. As its your 1st trials bike you are unlikely to find a perfect frame for you, and if youve just blown 300+ on a new frame to find out that something else would suit you better in 3 months time then you have to take the massive depreciation hit associated with new frames Dont forget that its isnt just the frame that suffers in trials, the components take a hammering and the more you can spend on upgrading/ better speccing them the better your ride will be. The t-rex frame is very strong, geometry is pretty good for a beginner and will last you a decent amount of time. Someone will probably come shoot me down in flames and suggest a far better frame to start with, but hey

Taj is awesome, so awesome infact I named my cat after him The fake dummy bail at 3:18 made me

I was thinking the same, my stock is 8.95kg but thats using lightweight components pretty much everywhere. Have you actually weighed the bike?

For me it was the trialsworks riders - Ben Trinder, Mike Fox, John O'Leary and Rich (cant remember his surname now but got a chin like bruce forsyth :$ ). It was awesome riding with zoo sponsored riders

What I was saying though was that in the 1st water bleed some oil remains will probably be in the system, if you were to re-bleed the brake (especially if you blow it through to clean it out) with water then I suspect it would be more likely to develop sticky pistons. If the brake isnt leaking then there is no need to bleed it

I have titanium holes Its a pity that aluminium holes are lighter

Not had a chance to ride, pulled the muscles in my back on sunday and now got a bit of a cold It will likely be months before I know if its come out of solution. Chances are you have some oil left in the system somewhere, my 1st water bleed lasted for ages before getting sticky pistons. Subsequently after being re-bled with water I developed sticky pistons within a couple of months and the only way to rectify it (without bleeding with oil) was to manually oil the pistons. The emulsion bleed relubricated the pistons after a couple of strokes and they are now moving smoothly as intended. Bear in mind my maggie slaves are over 10 years old so the seals are possibly more prone to sticking

If you use too coarse a blade then it will splinter on the edges, I cut a test piece using a file saw and it worked ok but did splinter alittle, you can file the splinters down to smooth. If you use a cutting disk then you dont need to bind the edges as it cuts cleanly It is fecking horrible, I was coughing for days I wouldnt worry about a tiny bit of inhalation, but dont do it for prolonged periods because it is carcinogenic, but then so is smoking

My carbon one is 18g

On the top right hand side of the thread, click the button that says options, change the layout to standard

You can cut carbon with a very, very fine tooth sharp hacksaw blade but it will be hard work as it has a nasty habit of blunting blades very quickly, also you wont be able to really cut rounded edges easily. Using a dremel cutting disk is much easier and does a far better job - watch out for the dust though as its fuggin horrible stuff. Aluminium would be your easier option if you only have a hacksaw For the same stiffness though it would be much much heavier.

Google for local non ferrous metal stockists, they should be able to cut you a length from a plate. If youre looking to make your own booster then I would consider carbon, you can get a plate of 4mm thick thats big enough to make a v booster for about 15-17 quid, its stiffer than aluminium and can be considerably lighter

If you buy wd40 in liquid form you will be able to bleed with it as normal, probably cost you 20 quid for a gallon tin though.

I passed my test on valentines It was 10 years ago mind edit: shit no it wasnt, twas 12 years ago, f**k Ive lost 2 years!!!

I thought there was a mk1 and mk2 st blaise, then there was the koxx giacomo (the orange one). I could be wrong though, I think the mk2 st blaise had a slightly higher BB?

My 32 hole dx32 is 654g with 18mm holes drilled in it, that is lighter than most other rims out there; I believe you can go as large as 25mm holes in them for more weight saving. They are only 38mm wide so make sure you will be able to set up your brake ok, the reduced width can cause more tyre roll at lower pressures but Ive not really had any problems with it

Of course, if it remains in emulsion then its all good, if it starts to get sticky slaves again then a rethink is in order Never used procool (my supermoto is air cooled ) but it may work, dont know the lubrication properties of propylene glycol though; a quick scan of wikipedia gave these application results: - :D :D Should be ok I reckon, perhaps you could mix it 50:50 with more distilled water (procool is 50% distilled already) to give a lighter feel