craigjames

I am blind!

Seen a few E39 "M5" estates. They look awesome. Although I think i'd rather have a B5 RS4 Avant...

Nigh on all FFW and fixed cogs run slightly out of concentricity and as far as i'm aware it's the person that sets the tension that dictates how tight it is.... You set the tension too tight. It's probably a combination of it being run too tight for a period of time, age of other components and maybe the chainline. But if it's only ever so slightly off that won't make a massive amount of difference. You say it's a 5 star rated chain, but what model of KMC chain is specifically? Can't remember the last time i snapped a chain (jinxed myself now), for the sake of £10 every 4-6 months it's worth changing.

Edit: Jardo summed it up perfectly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Seat-Leon-Cupra-R-1-8T-BAM-225-Platinum-Grey-/181535380090?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a445a127a ??

Looks smart like it a lot. Hopefully they'll bring this one out into production. It's been too long since Onza had a comp level 20" frame. I'm guessing it's fairly light too? What sort of reach does it measure up at?

Why does it not surprise me that Jardo's two favourite drivers have been Schumacher and Vettel? Vettel has been consistently outperformed by his teammate in an underperforming car. How is going to another team with an underperforming car going to help? Oh because Kimi will be his teammate and he hasn't exactly been on it since he came back to Ferrari. It's a shame Jenson could see himself without a seat next season, but I guess in F1 terms he is getting on a bit. Alonso is taking a risk leaving Ferrari, but it seems a calculated one, it's not like the team has delivered a car that performs as you would expect.

Then it'll be the case of putting the hours in when you get a Job at keep the qualifications up to date/ up training. There's such a demand for skilled welders that you shouldn't have a problem. Are you looking to stay up around Bristol area? Might be worth seeing what jobs are around right now. Haha fair enough, looks nice and even. Was just the slight concavity and maybe a tiny bit of undercut. I only trained up to do MIG and old school gas so I can't comment as I found it fairly easy, been a while since i've used it though. I'd love to give TIG a go, just more of an art in my opinion.

I have a semi... Although the bead looks slightly concaved? It all depends what sort of welding you envisage doing and where you want to work. Here down at Devonport the welders can earn a really good wage, a darn sight more than the 18k you mention. But it depends where you get trained up and what qualifications you hold. There is currently a massive shortage of skilled welders and we seem to be sub contracting a lot of labour in. Are you looking to do an apprenticeship or get your qualifications at a college/training school?

And that's why so many household items come with power supplies... Think it's actually 230v 50Hz single phase, although you'll see a lot of places calling it 240 because that's what we used to have.

Does the tree come with it?!

Are you referring to lubing up the thread to help stop spoke twist? If so yes. I tend to put a small bit of grease on the spoke thread, helps the thread run freely to stop it binding and twisting the nipple. The nipples NiconJ is referring to don't claim to anything more than help align the nipple and the spoke thread by having a more rounded "ball joint" profile to the nipple. No manufacturer claims about slippery coatings or such. Can see some merit in those nipples, but never heard of anyone using grease or lube to aid the seating of the spoke or nipple heads. De-stressing the wheel properly after you first true and tension it should do the same thing.

Just the first time it's happened in the 3 years i've lived here.

Then if you aren't happy that it's a B stock item then warranty it?! You've got a solution to make the frame work because it isn't manufactured correctly; but that isn't good enough. You've also go the option to warranty it because it isn't fit for purpose; but that option isn't good enough. Mistakes in manufacturing happen, a lot of Chinese produced products don't got through the same quality check procedures as items manufactured elsewhere. It's one reason why they are comparatively cheap. Remember trials is a very small part of the cycling industry (this isn't road cycling or mountain biking!) and as such comparatively small production runs are made. In any other industry these small production runs would result in high prices to ensure a certain level of quality; but trials parts are relatively cheap. As such the quality can suffer. You can't have both, there will always be a compromise. You've got two options, pick one and quit moaning about it.

There are but it's under the Noise act 1996 which has to be policed by the local council. They can fine the company etc. But the police can't do anything. Just a f**king piss take really. Went on for a couple of hours too.

Apparently 2AM this morning was a reasonable time for the local train line maintenance contractors set about cutting down several trees on the embankments near the line. 8 men, 3 petrol chainsaws and 2 large wood chippers. I don't care if doing it during the day affects your business and profitline, doing it at that time affects my ability to sleep. c**ts.

Don't think any sort of modding would have saved that, definitely wouldn't risk riding with it bodged or not. Bloody dangerous!

Indeed, pretty shrewd move really.

It is, Rockshox sold something similar back in the 90's. I think they're being marketed as a cheaper/easier way for people who ride cyclocross and road to fit discs as it only requires calipers and rotors; also enables them to retain the brake shifter combo levers that drop bars use. Currently full hydraulic drop bar setups are pretty damn expensive.

The only place you're likely to get one from is another frame.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sunlite-threadless-68-mm-sealed-bearing-bottom-bracket-for-frames-with-damaged-threads-prod33909/ This one has a 127.5mm axle option

BETD do BB helicoils if it is beyond saving by chasing the threads through with a tap, but it's really not cheap... http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=236&Name=Frame+repairs To be honest by the time you've shipped it off to them and paid for it to be repaired you'd be a fair way to a new frame, especially once you've got the brake mounts helicoiled, if they're repairable. I know it's a rare frame, but that's only because it's old; personally unless the frame really holds a massive amount of sentimental value and as such you could justify spending the money on it rather buying new, I wouldn't bother. EDIT: The other option if you're using square taper cranks is to fit something like this: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/page/find/?name=threadless%20bottom%20bracket&page=1

What you mean the one he posted on Facebook today?...

Holy moley! Little bit scary!

28, A3 1.8T, 9 years no claims, £380 fully comp (unlimited mods up to 280BHP (no chance of getting there!)).