2sixstreet

Thats a bit odd... Someones been 'shopping' at the same place as me. Before anyone asks, I already have more than enough testers

Mate get back on it! I started trials at 32 and love it. I have a road and XC background so you have a better starting point to get back into it - youth and trials experience.

Have been running '05's front and rear with metal TPA's and Deng levers for about 3 months now - not one problem.

Slight correction: Water boils at 100 degrees C, it won't get any hotter no matter how long or how many times you boil it - it will just turn to steam. Removing pads from backings - put in a pan of boiling water - put them in the oven and check regularly - put the pad in a vice and wind away - the pad will crush and pop out of the backing. Make sure you dont catch any of the backing.

Turn it upside down, put the stem back on part way, pick it up by front wheel and drop it to the floor.

Ahh, they already exist. Element do a range of bikes called Proton, Electro, Xenon etc...

Inventor 11

Its a bit weird hearing you guys talk about Niki like that. I used to do a few training rides with her and bumped into her at Uni from time to time. Long time ago now when she did XC and I lived in another country. Definitely a hottie though. Got a brain in her head too.

RAREBREED

Do both days. You may not do it all in one

Totally agree. My vote is for Ritchey WCS Foam.

Totally agree. You need need to consider how something like that is going to be manufactured. For something that complex I cant imagine any cost effective traditional manufacturing techniques. My suggestion would be take the exact geo from a Maggie or Deng blade and model something new-ish around that. Do some basic calcs and then see what results you get from subtle tweaks in length, moving the pivot etc. What program are you using by the way?

Am pretty sure we'll be out at some point. I'll give you a shout when and where.

There might be a correct way which someone will post but I held the end over a gentle flame (ie candle) and then used a nail or allen key etc to open up the inside whilst it was still a bit pliable. Dont go so big that it is easy to push on the barb though, you need some resistance. I've not had a problem since.

You're back on a mod? Theres a few of us riding tomorrow. I cant get out 'til after 4 or so but will ride anywhere theres enough light.

Another vote for Rock Greens - awesome on a rhyno lite smooth anodised rim (front with HS33). In fact, i'm changing to another compound because they bite a bit too much.

Hangs too far down for my liking but top effort all the same. At least get rid of the mech hanger now.

Black and white Heres a link to my stock - white frame, black rims. black and white control

It is simpler doing it that way but I dont think there will be much problem with Ti - it doesnt exactly break too easily and theres a good deal of adjustment built in so if you do bash it, just swing it back. I like that Ti one but it would be much neater if you could tension up instead of down.

Whats everyones preferred meeting point? If most are coming by train lets say 3 steps at Temple Meads?

... the lid would blow off. You could increase temperature by using a pressure cooker but its far easier to reach 150 degrees by popping them in the oven.

You'll still just have boiling water. If you make water hotter than 100 degrees it turns into steam.

I used to race one of those Lenosky Schwinn's in XC. Beastly frame - 2.9 lbs.

100 degrees in boiling water wouldnt be a problem. May not actually be enough to soften the glue but the PU would still be the same. Theres quite a big industry in PU bushes, high speed bearings etc. Working temps can be very high.

I'm not entirely sure but if it is a 'superglue' based glue (cyanoacrylate) then acetone will break the bond. I'm curious to know what glue you will be using to glue the pads in the new backings.