2sixstreet

In

If you're still out after 5 i'm up for it.

Which year model lever is it? I may have some kicking about. PM me the measured size (ID and section) i'll have a look for you.

My two cents worth... You have a frame tapped to M6 which is more than likely 1.0 Pitch (standard) You want to go back to M5 which has a standard pitch of 0.8 (standard) The M5 helicoil (named by internal thread) has to have an internal pitch of 0.8 to match the bolt The external pitch has to match the internal pitch by design So, you need to tap M6 x 0.8 to run a standard M5 helicoil. The M6 x 0.1 you have at the moment is not suitable. Helicoils work by being compressed when they are being wound in. Once the tension is taken off they expand and lock in. Removing is possible but requires a bit more force and there is a special extractor tool available. As has been mentioned and if there is enough material i'd go for M8 and then tap the internal back to M5. Those Keenserts look good too but have not used them. Other methods - 'cold welding' the holes with a filler rod. It can be used with butane, propane MAPP etc. - Have it fully welded and re-tapped - Theres a product called 'Metal Repair' which might work for a short time but I doubt it would be a long term solution. It's a paste you mix and once it's gone off you can work it (file, drill, tap etc)

The rear window looks Saab 99 ish but theres no vent below it.

Drinking in Bristol? Wheres my invite ?

I'm there if I get my mounts sorted. Then again the jubilee worked a treat.

As above. Is everything past the lever body on an HS11 the same as an HS33?

Either that or DuraFix (other brands are available) which is a fluxless filler rod. The beauty of it is that you can use it with butane, mapp, propane etc.

I think he means that once the holes are welded then he has no reference for the hole to be re-drilled. Before welding, mark the centre of the hole to the outside of the 4-bolt tab in each direction. No, don't use a permanant marker, scribe it with something sharp. After welding and facing, joining the scribed lines from each side of the mount to find your centres again.

Have you tested the current systems on the market? I don't want to dissuade you from your project but it has been done and the current products out there work well. I used to race XC back in the day when UST (and latex) was becoming popular and affordable but there was still a large majority of people (including me) who used lightweight tubes and tyres. UST just wasn't reliable enough. It was also the time when cartridges were developing. I can tell you now that a 12g canister will not inflate a standard 26" tube/tyre to 110psi twice. In a road bike tyre you'd be lucky to get 70-80psi out of a single one. It would get you home ok but you wouldnt be time trialling along the way. I can't honestly see a market for trials riders for CO2. It's convenient but it's not a cheap alternative to carrying a pump and like what has been said, who cares if you're out on a ride and it takes you 5min to fix a flat. Your mates are going to wait for you, in a cross country race they won't. On the rare occasion I flatted I could get going again in under 90 seconds. In that time you could lose about 8 places. Also carrying the small extra weight of a mini pump around all day as opposed to a CO2 canister and inflater is hardly a strain. If you go ahead with the project I would market it squarely to those that have a need for light weight and are able to use it quickly as well as see the cost benefit. I'd investigate having a protection around the canister from a marketing point of view too - they get extremely cold. I used to use cut off gloves so could hang onto them ok and it was quite refreshing on a hot summers day (in Aus). First time users usually get a bit of frost bite or stuck to the canister. Some companies have come up with a foam covering, others use a protective plastic cover. You could also look into threaded and non-threaded cartridge heads. Base your pros and cons around leakage when piercing before use. A threaded system could be more secure than one which you need to mechanically close onto to break the seal. Maybe look at a canister with a small valve for added security and re-use? Something you may not realise is that CO2 by nature will 'leak' from a perfectly good tube much faster than atmospheric air. When convenient after using CO2 you need to fully deflate your tube and pump it back up normally. I'll let you do your own research as to why. I'm a bit out of touch with XC racing now but with the numerous 'no-tubes' and UST systems around it's a pretty safe bet that if you won't flat and if you do it's not going to be fixed with CO2 (or patches and glue). I believe that you can now take service on each lap too. Of course theres a market for the people who run conventional tube/tyre combo and is convenient for weekend warriors. Good luck with the project, I hope you come up with something innovative. For the person who suggested carrying around 300psi, I doubt it would pass whatever laws there are for products to enter the market.

I'm up for it.

DMR V8's. I was looking around for something different to reduce the shin carnage when I slipped and something that didnt lose so many pins but there was nothing I fancied that didn't cost the national debt of a small country. For a couple of quid I replaced all the pins with M5 stainless grub screws and havent had a problem since. Made great pedals into awesome ones.

New spot in Bristol Ro?

You bringing all the guys from the Isle again? Won't be able to make it unfortunately.

Either day is cool with me, just need a bit of notice.

Sounds good, i'll be there.

You already have the base coat so it s agood starting canvas. Theres only about 20 grams of colour on there plus the clear coat. Get into it!

Yes well it is camouflage... I know what you mean. Cheers for all the comments guys, am glad to see the end of it to be honest. When I closed my eyes to go to bed each night all I had was an image of camo. It'll be scratched up pretty soon but i'm expecting that and it shouldn't show as badly as if it was one solid colour. XXVI is just 26, no other reason other than to break up the camo a bit (Monkey Boy I may be old but not TWICE that yet!) Pictures taken In Victoria Park over Knowle way. Not a bad park with a few different bits to ride as long you get on with cider drinking chavs 'sharing' the skate park. Yep, next to the railway lines. Updates from previous build are MOE BB and Middleburns. Braided crossover on rear and removed my booster/crossover protector.

White base coat was done with pressure pack. the camo was done by hand. I estimate about 20-25hrs of work. Comments welcome. Edit: Last picture added to try and show a bit of contrast.

That's lovely.

Yes but that would actually be true. Looking fit Mark, will have to make it down to the Isle for a ride soon. Can you send me the ferry schedule?

Weaker and lighter means you need more of it to bring it back up to the same standard as traditional materials like steel. Ti alloy is also very good at bending/flexing which I wouldn't want in my BB, pedals, bolts etc... I agree with saving weight in the right places, go for steel.

There

Yeah I (I being Dave to try and clear up any confusion) have been ruuning a 24/7 since August and highly recommend it. I bought another (the one I will weigh) as a spare but it will be quite a while before I need it by the looks of things. I'm not the smoothest rider and don't go particularly big but I do give it a workout. I would destroy a Halo Combat (I know its not ideal for trials to to start with) in a much shorter amount of time. The 24/7 has some small dents here and there and i've flatted on a dual ply a couple of times if thats indication. Built my own wheel onto a ProII and its been rock solid, just the odd tweak here and there and it's never been out of round. I ran it with the machined sidewall for ages with good braking power (HS33). I ended up with a grind which is also good and holds really well. Tar also works if thats your thing. They are very similar to other branded rims i've seen on mates bikes. For the price I don't think you can go wrong. I'd happily keep buying them.