JD™ Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 The only thing that needs doing is just putting that freewheel spacer on... I wonder how many more times that needs to be said before it's accepted as the correct answer? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 I wonder how many more times that needs to be said before it's accepted as the correct answer? +1 get a freewheel spacer on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leistonbmx Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) I have a freewheel spacer in my shed somewhere. Some black echo one. EDIT: You're not from UK. Never mind. Edited September 28, 2011 by Leistonbmx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 This is why I design frames you would have to put a 30 tooth cog before the chain hits mine. It is their fault for sure, quite simply put they didn't put enough clearance with the seatstay design, the seatstay will flex a bit when you ride and the chainline needs to come nowhere near the frame when you pedal. It is just too close. I would say ride the frame if you want to save money, it could break but isn't too dangerous I have had a seatstay snap when I was riding, the chainstay and other seatstay usually hold the frame together so you can just replace it when that breaks it also might not break altogether. But yeah it should be warranty in my opinion. You are running totally normal gearing... or consider switching to the new fans evo frame. They are designed and built with quality but are a bit pricey compared to the echo. side note: I once gridned the frame so deep on the seatstay on my GU that their was a hole in it and it didn't break. You are probably safe to ride it but it will be hard to stop that, cause the seatstay will always flex somewhat so its likely to get worn down more. Thanks, thats a real relief! It's not a question of the gearing, it's a question of the spacing. Echo supply a spacer with their cranks for you to use if you aren't using a bashring, and this spaces your freewheel over. If you use that spacer, there's no problem. That's a pre-built Echo Lite SL. You can just about make out the spacer behind the freewheel. Same on the 'standard' one too. We've sold over 25 20" Echo Lite full builds and haven't had any issues like that at all. Quality wasn't really one of the factors that stood out on the Evo frames we received. Well, it was in a way in so much as the lack of quality control was pretty apparent. I just got the frameset, so I didn't have the spacer But I figured that the bottom bracket spacers were sufficient since they were supplied with the frame.. I think the issue with warranty is that the chain must've been hitting since the bike was built. Nothing has changed or failed, except you failing to notice the issue ! I'd have though hub flange spacing is as much of an issue as BB spacers too- I know flange spacing and so chainline is certainly not constant between different hubs so would also affect things. As has been suggested, flip your 12T cog round (might need a couple of shims to space it out a little depending on the hub, chain and sprocket) and use a smaller spacer on the BB and the frame will probably last without any problem. Well, it'll eventually break somewhere but I doubt it will be where the chain's been rubbing. Yea I guess it's a long shot, but like I mentioned above, it seems like I've set up everything right. There could be a chance (event if it's small!) that the problem exists because of a design flaw in the frame. I wonder how many more times that needs to be said before it's accepted as the correct answer? I will get one, but I was just seeing what my options were, because I don't really like spending 12 pounds on shipping for one small item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leistonbmx Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 If you know someone with a Lathe I can send you measurements for the spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 it seems like I've set up everything right. ...other than not running a freewheel spacer. Yes, clearance is tight, but there are setups that work fine. Get the spacer and your issue should be gone, done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 I just got the frameset, so I didn't have the spacer But I figured that the bottom bracket spacers were sufficient since they were supplied with the frame.. It isn't anything to do with the BB, BB spacers or frame - it's literally just the need for a spacer on the crank arm behind the freewheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 here's my take. The frame design is fine (if a little close). I don't understand how you could have ridden the frame without knowing that was happening? Your setup isn't fine otherwise it wouldn't have happened. the frame is supplied with bottom bracket spacers, the freewheel spacer isn't supplied because they come with Echo cranks. I am afraid the fault is with the user in this case, the first ride (or even the first time the bike is assembled) should be sufficient to to realize the setup rubs. Those frames are fine when the correct spacers are used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 here's my take. The frame design is fine (if a little close). I don't understand how you could have ridden the frame without knowing that was happening? Your setup isn't fine otherwise it wouldn't have happened. the frame is supplied with bottom bracket spacers, the freewheel spacer isn't supplied because they come with Echo cranks. I am afraid the fault is with the user in this case, the first ride (or even the first time the bike is assembled) should be sufficient to to realize the setup rubs. Those frames are fine when the correct spacers are used. Yea I´m not sure how I didn´t notice aswell, I didn´t feel any friction while spinning the wheel. I guess I should view this as a lesson next time I get a new frame! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) I didn´t feel any friction while spinning the wheel. I guess the chain could've been a bit slack, so it only raised high enough to grind on the chainstay when under load... But yeah - just need a freewheel spacer. (Or a bashring. So much nicer to not have a plate. Plates should be illegal ) Edit: I just looked at the pictures and realize that probably was not the case Edited September 28, 2011 by aener Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) I guess the chain could've been a bit slack, so it only raised high enough to grind on the chainstay when under load... But yeah - just need a freewheel spacer. (Or a bashring. So much nicer to not have a plate. Plates should be illegal ) Edit: I just looked at the pictures and realize that probably was not the case I hardly ever use my bashplate, and the guard came with the frame anyway Don't want to spend any more money, the frameset already drained my wallet. Still waiting for the freewheel spacer to arrive, I've been looking at my screw on sprocket aswell, and I don't think I can flip the the cog arround since that would cause it to rub the spokes because the teeth are at the very end of the thread. I've looked on tartybikes but it's hard to see from the pictures. Are there any screw on cogs that have the teeth centered on the cog? Edit: almost forgot, I need one with 12 teeth! Edit2: Found some centered cogs, but they are listed under singlespeed. Are these usuable as a rear cog aswell? Sorry for all the basic questions, never had any trouble with cogs before! Edited September 29, 2011 by omgnoseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) The Echo Tr sprockets run centred teeth. Happen the be the cheapest sprocket on tarty too If you look at the tarty menu, find Sproket -> Screw on Sprokets. First one Edited September 29, 2011 by Echo Lite 09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 The Echo Tr sprockets run centred teeth. Happen the be the cheapest sprocket on tarty too If you look at the tarty menu, find Sproket -> Screw on Sprokets. First one Awesome, thanks a bunch! Still wondering about the singlespeed sprockets though? Could pick one up from a bmx store so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Awesome, thanks a bunch! Still wondering about the singlespeed sprockets though? Could pick one up from a bmx store so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping Bmx sprockets arnt great to be honest. My mate used one temporarily and because it had less threads than a trials one, it stripped all the threads on the hub. Id just fix it properly first time around and get a trials one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 So i've put on a freewheel spacer and and a rear cog with centered teeth. The chainline has improved, but is still incredibly close to the chainstay. Would it hurt to put more spacers between the hub and dropout on the chainside than on the other side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 That would be fine, I've done that in the past, as long as there's at least ~4mm of axle in the dropout it'll be ok. Didn't read the thread in full detail, but you can afford a slim spacer between the crank and FW too, nothing too wide as the threads are a bit oversized on the ENO, but 2-3mm will help pinch you a bit of space About the original issue - unfortunately user error The Try-All hub you have in there is VERY wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) That would be fine, I've done that in the past, as long as there's at least ~4mm of axle in the dropout it'll be ok. Didn't read the thread in full detail, but you can afford a slim spacer between the crank and FW too, nothing too wide as the threads are a bit oversized on the ENO, but 2-3mm will help pinch you a bit of space About the original issue - unfortunately user error The Try-All hub you have in there is VERY wide. Yeah I'm running a spacer there now Using an echo SL btw! Oh I wasn't aware that the hub was the main problem. Might still need to buy a new hub if the freewheelspacer and new cog give me enough clearance. Will post some more picture's tomorrow, it still feels unsafe. But I really can't afford a new hub right now Edited October 4, 2011 by omgnoseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Oops, my bad, sorry, thought it looked like an ENO :$ You only need 3-4mm more clearance, so the spacer and sprocket should do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Oops, my bad, sorry, thought it looked like an ENO :$ You only need 3-4mm more clearance, so the spacer and sprocket should do the trick Haha they all look a like to me. Here's a picture of the new distance It's still incredibly close. But using some zipties to prevent the chain from rubbing the frame makes me feel somewhat saver. Anyone has any bodges to replace the zip ties, or win over some more mm's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 From that pic, the clearance actually looks 'good' for such a tiny frame. Providing when you put the power down the chain isn't running against the tube, you can remove the zip ties. If it is, then the zip ties will be removed soon anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 From that pic, the clearance actually looks 'good' for such a tiny frame. Providing when you put the power down the chain isn't running against the tube, you can remove the zip ties. If it is, then the zip ties will be removed soon anyway Haha yeah, I had to replace the zipties every 5min on the ride where I noticed the damage (stopped riding after that to prevent any more damage). But the new zip ties all still here after 2 rides. I do see slight wear on them, so I will keep them just to be save. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weirdoku Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Anyone has any bodges to replace the zip ties, or win over some more mm's? Garden hose are tougher than zip ties. Similar problem I had when I had my lynx, chain cut straight into the frame on the first day. Think I was using a KHE something... the chain with a flat side on the links. Then I changed to some Taya halfords chain that was a bit thinner. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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