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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Made a ghetto gear linkage today. Managed to snap the old one, due to it being plastic, so i thought it couldnt be that hard to make my own, and reduce the amount of travel needed aswell.

The travel doesnt feel much shorter, but the gear change feels so much tighter than before.

The top half of the linkage i snapped:

post-36867-0-20225900-1414955758_thumb.j

Mocked it up against a bit of aluminuim:

post-36867-0-10371900-1414955781_thumb.j

Hole drilled and bolt in place:

post-36867-0-62080200-1414955807_thumb.j

Standard length:

post-36867-0-71044700-1414955831_thumb.j

the cat "Helping" me

post-36867-0-93697900-1414955856_thumb.j

Ballsed the first one up by drilling the preload bolt hole way too close, so attempt two!

post-36867-0-16972700-1414955882_thumb.j

got it right this time!:

post-36867-0-07705400-1414955929_thumb.j

3.5mm(ish) reduction, works out about 7% less travel.

post-36867-0-95681300-1414955950_thumb.j

some nylon spacers to hold the cable end in the correct place.

post-36867-0-23993500-1414955976_thumb.j

It all in place:

post-36867-0-82714700-1414956008_thumb.j

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You are starting from the correct corner right? IIRC if a car won't bleed properly it can be a master cylinder issue such as a flipped seal but I've never had that before so I don't know what its like

Absolutely.

I've bled the master cylinder too.

Oh well, I just booked a track day at Brands on the 5th of December (Mazda on track) so I'll HAVE to get it fixed and get the brake ducts fitted.

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Yeah I'm going to give that a go, but I need Prawn to give me a hand so he can pump the pedal.

It's just annoying me a little, the car drives totally fine, no worries driving it, the brakes work perfect and the pedal goes nice and solid. It's just got more travel than I would like :(

It'll be fine, just need to get Pdog involved so we can get two people on it :)

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Wasn't me in Truro, I don't get out much :P

I like K-Jet too, very little to go wrong, vacuum leak will mess up EVERYTHING, its very sensitive to mixture too which is also affected by the warm up regulator so it's worth having a look there... If it's backfiring though I'd be looking more at ignition timing or leads arcing and all other ignition bits...

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the brakes work perfect and the pedal goes nice and solid. It's just got more travel than I would like :(

Don't think you can do much about that... :( If there's no air in that's as little travel as you'll get without changing components.

As a note, I seem to remember Prawn once telling me NOT to bleed the VAG master cylinders with the 'push the pedal' method, due to flipping seals as Paul said.

Also, do you need to activate the ABS using VCDS or is that only for when the system has been completely emptied?

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Doesn't work like that unfortunately Tom, the plug colour is only indicative of the combustion state when the engine was stopped. In order to achieve this Paul would have to instantly kill the ignition, stop the engine and hold the throttle in exactly the same position when the misfire/problem happened, all whilst putting it into neutral and coming to a safe halt :D

If the problem is only at low revs but above idle then it would be very difficult to test it from a plug colour point of view.

It's a purely mechanical system, no sensors as such although the clost thing to your suggestion is the metering head and the flap moves freely! A common part to get sticky though.

Yeah checking plugs means very little as Ed says, I could use a colour tune although i'm not sure how good they really are?

Appologies if I've misread/misunderstood, but plug colour has always been a guideline I've used to dictate engine ignition / mixture positions for roughing. Too white - lean, black as fudge - rich, coke colour - good enough to get you going..

http://www.bikerenews.com/Stories_Archives/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs.html

I know it doesn't give a full dictation through the rev band, but it gives you a rough idea.

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ABS cycle through VCDS is what I'm doing tomorrow morning, if my cable decides to work.

Just like Prawn did the other week I just assumed that the eesibleed pick up pipe was connected when it wasn't and ran the master low, so chances are the ABS pump could be full of air.

The press method is ok, it's just the last inch of travel that can risk flipping the seals. Lots of people do it, it's just gash and antiquated. :P

Edited by Pashley26
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Appologies if I've misread/misunderstood, but plug colour has always been a guideline I've used to dictate engine ignition / mixture positions for roughing. Too white - lean, black as fudge - rich, coke colour - good enough to get you going..

http://www.bikerenews.com/Stories_Archives/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs.html

I know it doesn't give a full dictation through the rev band, but it gives you a rough idea.

Aye, you can use it for setting the initial carb jetting but I think Paul's issue is too fine to recognise by plug chops.

I used the method for jetting the supermoto, however I was working on full throttle openings so much simpler :)

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I don't want to race it haha, I wanted to spectate. A few friends of mine are racing in the Hero class in an old Alfa 75.

Hilariously I was offered a seat in one of the MX5's there being run by Mission Motorsport...Only catch was I didn't have £2000 or an ARDS license and they didn't realise I can't drive for toffee haha!

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