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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Just on a bin related note, in New Zealand we have a normal bin and a recycling bin, heaven forbid you should ever put food waste in the recycling..! They like to mix it all together themselves later on when the whole lot goes to landfill.

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My car failed it's MOT, but when being repaired for the failure faults at another garage, some major rust around the rear seat belt mounts and a broken spring was discovered (neither were found on the MOT). Where do I stand with the test station? The car hasn't passed an MOT, but dangerous faults were missed.

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Bit of advice please. My 54 Fabian rear passenger door won’t open, the central locking isn’t working on that door. It’s annoying but also not so safe for taking a baby in and out (I have to do it on the road side now). Any good ideas on how to fix, or do I just have do dismantle the door  card/fixtures from the inside? 

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If it's anything like the Golfs/Leons/etc of the same vintage, then locking modules tend to fail on them. You can pull them apart to replace the microswitch and/or brittle solder which fails, but it's easier/more convenient to just pick up a replacement (eBay ones are typically just as good as OEM) and swap them over. I've one a couple on Leons over the years and it's usually a case of door card off, inner door card off and you have access.

For reference, here's a post shamelessly half-inched from the Briskoda forum:

"The two microswitches just above my index finger sense the key being twisted one way or t'other; the two in the middle of the pic feed back the motor's effect on the mechanism, and the one out of shot on the ends of the red and blue wires senses whether the door is open or closed."

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Hardest bit is getting the door open so you can get in there and replace the module. May have to try and dismantle door card if you can't access all the usual screws in the lower edge/similar.

Worth a read of some of the threads on that forum (such as this one: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/193291-remove-and-repair-deadlocked-rear-door/ ) to help diagnose the cause a little more accurately before pulling it apart (Y) 

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Inlet Manifold got treated to a few coats of VHT Paint

 

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Gave the rotors a quick wire brush and hammerited the centres.

 

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Started to do some body repair on the mk2.5 NBFL bumper

 

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Sideskirts also needed some TLC

 

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Decided to get the engine bay sprayed first so got everything masked off , 320 grit wet and dried the whole lot with some small rotary wire brushes for the awkward areas then put down some MIPA Etch Primer for the bare metal parts.

 

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Posted Today, 11:17 PM

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The old gearbox had a tendency to jump out of first, unfortunately the new box that was purchased had suffered from water ingress.

 

Pulled the new box apart to figure out how it all worked, then tackled the second. Turned out the synchro for first gear had loads of instant gasket sealant stuck in it preventing it from fully engaging, Hopefully this will remedy the issue.

 

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Posted Today, 11:28 PM

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A few parts back from sandblasting.

 

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Engine mounts

 

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Also started stripping the calipers apart for a set of new seals. Drilled and tapped the banjo bolt out at M6 to suit a grease nipple, used a spacer to block the banjo holes and a grease gun to force the seized pistons out from their bores.

 

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Rear piston in need of some scotchbrite 

 

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Also managed to get all the exhaust manifold nuts removed, copper greased and replaced.

 

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Civic. 

Cusco rear wing, cut rear bumper (race car yo), front lip, front splitter, K Tuned billet shifter. 

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The shifter is possibly my single favorite addition on the whole car. Just a properly nice bit of kit that feels fantastic. 

Cadwell (again) in just under two weeks away, before which I’m hoping I can find time to fit my new 5.3 final drive and a lighter flywheel. Also need two tyres. 

Expensive hobby this. 

Edited by SamKidney
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