craigjames

Bloody hell, fair shouts indeed sir!

As provided to us by the ever helpful revolver:

Sweet ass kick stand

Give it a fresh bleed and see if that improves things.

Plazmatic yellows on a smooth rim were awesome, but they still squeak, not a lot you can go to get away from that apart from run black pads as Luke has suggested.

It's also a trials bike and as such has very little in the way of second hand value, 500-600 is about right for it. You'd be very lucky to get more.

I honeslty don't know as they don't have a working website i can find. Most likely 7005 or 6061 Aluminium.

That's because they're designed to brazed on a steel frame.... they won't work with alu.

Does sound like you've got a sticky piston, but it doesn't explain the clicking feeling your lever gave. Hold the working piston in, whilst pulling the lever, this should push the sticky piston out. Give it a thorough clean a tiny bit of oil or silicone lube and cycle it in and out for a bit. Should free it up. If a sticky piston is your problem that is...

Awesome, glad something good finally came of this. Nice to know scummy lil bastards can't get away with it! Did you get anything back?

Don't think you can buy them from anywhere new, get a 6" steel rule, cut it to length and drill holes in each end to fit. Stronger, cheaper, sorted.

It should bleed well, if it's not then either the seals are screwed or you aren't bleeding it right. They can be a pain. But spacing the calliper over because you've got the wrong rear hub really isn't ideal in the slightest! A hope wont feel as good as it can until you face the mounts on your frame, bleed it correctly and have it mounted so the rotor sits central in the calliper; without using a shed load of washers to space it over!

Well done mate, stick with it! But as has been said try going the other way, it might not make any difference yet but it will later on

It might be ok, but you'd pull the brake mount (calliper) even further out of alignment with the disc. Are you sure the monty disc hub is 110mm, as both the monty rear disc hubs on Tarty are 106mm.

Hahaha you do realise these people that produce the online vids for Dirt and the Atherton project for example, receive money for their time and services, they don't just do it because they can! Pretty stupid thing to say.

Even if they do establish a new leader. Osama was well educated, well linked, extremely rich and charismatic. I don't think they have anyone to fill the position in the way he did. Al Qaeda certainly won't disappear, I think it won't continue to be the threat it was over the long term though.

Really? 5 minutes out of a lunch break? If you don't get a lunch break or breaks, then give them an email and contact your local citizen's advice bureau...

Trials has never been cool.

That was really really nice, sweet lil edit, some cool lines and a chilled vibe. Likey

If you don't feel comfortable doing that ring up hope, explain the issue and send it back. They'll probably charge you pittance to sort it and get it done in a few days; they're pretty damn good like that.

Yeah it's just the outer black lock ring that needs the loctite on it. Should be able to undo it with any normal pin spanner or a punch and hammer. It's just where they're designed to go on the front the lock ring would be butted up against the crank arm and held in place. I ran one like this for the best part of a year and was fine.

The lock ring will unscrew itself unless you loctite it.

Was at Botter rock, run by Phil Tupman. Don't know what's happening at the moment, was talking to Joe Seddon about it all; maybe sorting something. But it's a big maybe.

Mine was awful for holding a grind too. Harsh or light, with heatsink yellows, cousts or koxx browns it would last a day or two riding.

I found that getting the brake mounts on the forks faced and setting up the calliper so the disc sits central improved the feel of the brake tremendously. So i'd definitely recommend getting that done, most decent bike shops should have the kit.