RobinJI

A grind is when a grinder is rubbed against the surface of the rim to give a rough finish to it, letting the pads bite better. I would'nt say you nesicarily need a new front break, as said above, a maggie should be easily powerful enough for the front. If you really do want a disc, then fair enough, the hopes are great after they've had some time to bed in. I wouldn't say you will need a 180mm rotor on a mod really, got for a 160mm, you'll have slightly less chance of hitting it on things. The hope hubs are great, If you want to save some money then a Hope XC would do the job easily well enough, it just weighs a few grams more. As for the wheel, if you look at you're spokes on your front wheel you can see that they don't cross over at all, this type of spoking can not be used with a disc break, so you will need to get different length spokes as well, although these would have been needed anyway, due to the change in hub. Once you have paid for a hub, spokes, and building the wheel separately, you probably aren't far off the price of a full new wheel, due to the discount most shops give for buying the whole wheel. The 'trick' bike that koxx make does look quite similar to yours, I'd jut say that yours isn't the current model. It is a nice bike to start on, they ride really nicely, don't put it down too much just because of what people say on here, problems with products often get exaggerated on here, people sometimes don't seem to understand that when thousands of a product are sold, some of them are going to break. it's not a big deal. Welcome to the trials word, keep up the iding and have fun Its what it all about.

Jokes on you, were not the ones that use the word 'innit' randomly to make us feel big.

Haha nice one John.

Ah, OK, sorry, from one of your other posts I thought you were riding a 24seven for trials, as you're riding a Giant with that hub, then sorry, but that looks like its a 135mm spaced 9speed hub. I know what you mean about horizontals being much nicer and neeter, I'm getting my Iolo with horizontals on it soon for exactly the same reason.

Kind of. A 'normal' trials bike will have 10mm hollow axles, with M6 bolts screwed into these with a large washer, so the part of the wheel that you are referring to is normally an M6 bolt on a 'normal' trials bike. But the Actual axle of the bike that all the force of landings etc goes through is actually the 10mm axle that sits in the dropouts. Some wheels on more budget mods use 14mm BMX hubs, which are strong, but arguably unnecessary. A quick release would replace the M6 bolts with a solid rod about 4mm diameter, which wont reduce the strength of the wheel/axle at all, but because of using the action of a quick release instead of screwing in the bolts, you can't clamp the wheel in place as tightly, which is fine for front wheels, but with a mod having horizontal dropouts the wheel would slip a lot with just a quick release holding it in place.

Gotta say 24" it's just so much fun and so versatile.

I normaly wear my Dr Martins for riding, used to wear my animal jeans all the time on a bike, but there aincient now and I need a new pair. Genraly any skate make knows how to fit em, as they have the some interests as us, not looking stupid, but not getting in the way.

Haha, yeah, the clue as to weather the film it's self is real is the way that in the credits there are things like 'producer' But weather its based of real events or not doen't mean that is actual footage and stuff. The one thing that springs to mind when saying 'based on true events' is, how did they know it happened? I havent seen it in like 6 years, but didn't they all die in the film? so who told them about it?

I know there's a carbonique booster knockign around between my mates, Either alan or Bo has it, and I know neither is using it, Could probably arnage something if you wanna PM me. Also The booster that WeeBryan has used on the Vee mounts is indeed a tectro (sorry, not sure if he was saying it 'is' or he thinks it is similar) but I've got a gold one im my shed if you wanted that.

Amen Yeah, I did make that sound easy but in reality its a bitch to get off, but that's the method, the problem comes with the amount of force you have to put into it! Anyway, it sounds like you're chainring is warn so you're chain doesn't match it (not its width, the spacing between the teeth) so a new chainring would be best really. The reason that the shimano 3/32th chain worked is that it was probably a little stretched too, so was warn to match your warn chainring.

Ah, yeah, the XT you had uses a hollow axle rather than the solid one in the UN53. I've always used UN53s on square taper, and haven't had a problem with one yet. I snapped an ancient UN52, but it was about 3 years old. Edit: I'm sure the hollow axle wouldn't really make much of a difference, but in theory it must make some.

The holroyd gets alot of people saying there really heavy feeling, I tryed riding one a bit ago and it felt fine really. I think alot of the problem is that it comes with a 18-12t gearing, when most people would rather run something like 18-15t. Also they come with a Huge rear rim on the front of them for some reason, like larger than I'd like to have on the back. The one I rode had had the gearing changed to a 15t i think, and it felt ok.

Best budget BB you can get in alot of people's opinion: Shimano UN53, £14 from CRC, There tough and the bearing last years. Echo external BB, for ISIS cranks. As far as I know no one makes a Hollowtech 2/X-type crankset in either screw on or 5 arm compact, so trials riders haven't been drawn into them, due to them not being able to go any smaller then 22t chainrings, also the limited chainline can be a problem when running a granny ring. Echo make there external ISIS BB which solves these problems.

You just wrap a chain whip around the chainring and unscrew it with that.

My mate just e-mailed them: They say you can order direct from there website though.

Yeah, its hard to get get hold of them cagged, but there 1/4inch which is the standard size for hubs like Deores, so just get some of those and run em loose

Hey, from the diagram I'm guessing you've got a pig. If so then You have probably just shagged the lower bearings, just find some at you're local bike shop. Or if you want a quick fix then pop the remaining balls out of the cage, and just put them in loose, just stick them to the cup with some thick greese while you put it back together, if you dont think that leaves enough bearings then just nab some 1/4 inch bearings out of anything else, like an old loose ball hub so that the bottom cup if full of bearings. Although fiddily, its actualy stonger than having the cage in!

Echo Control short or Ashton both ride amazingly in my opinion. Obiosly depends what kind of style you ride with, and whether you like short(ish) bikes.

Yeah, again, if you sidehop properly then the bike will be at an angle, so the tyre will hit before the disc. Should be alright, I've cocked around doing trials moves on dual disc Jump bikes loads and never bent a disc, despite coming short loads.

All coming from my mate who works in a car audio shop. He says you measure the actual speeker so there 13cm's, and to go for some Alpines, Componants if you can afford them and they'll fit, full range if not. His alpine full range's were 39.99 and they fitted perfectly, also 13cm's, and they sound really nice.

Yeah, you are right, there the same all accross the range, any 2004/5 DJ or dropoff ones would work.

Looks like thats what you get with them, assuming there the right pads.

If its the one that I'm thinking of with the 28.6mm bar diamiter, then it uses one pinch bolt for the bars like a monty stem, and 2 for the steerer tube.

Sram by far, but as others have said, no point spending alot, you're just gunna trash it. what about one of these? one came on my freeride bike and it's a hell of alot better than you'd expect, shifts as nicely as my old XT and has taken a load of abuse.

The inside diameter should be 34mm. You will want to leave enough material for it to be strong, Id go with something like 5mm wall thickness for the top 15mm and the bottom 20-25mm, and 3 for the rest.