dezmtber

2nd that mr fox i am gonna skid the hell out of my rear holyroller so i can have one of these tyres for tartydays

Reba or revelations would suit the job. You can always internaly travel adjust longer revelations down to the travel you need. i would prefer you go for revelations they will be stiffer and you can always up the travel later if you get a longer travel frame.

I used to use an identiti rebate fork on my earlier builds they weren't too bad weigh 1410g and are 425mm long only 15mm longer than an element fork. And super strong.

45 hours a week bicycle mechanic

Zoot bars ?

the bike industry is quickly moving toward 29er for all bikes 650/27.5 for dh, enduro, ect... (all heavy use bikes) 26 still for trials and dirtjump for now.

A good long cable/hose will give you 3-5 turns of the bar. Unless your some kind of barspin or tailwhip genius you wont need a gyro.

My missus said if she has long hair get the wide plates if she's got short hair the standard plates. if she may change to short hair at sime time just get standard plated ones. best advice thou go to the ghd site and get the latest model in standard plates is always a winner.

A disc hose will fit if you use say hope or goodridge kits, but i don't know if the hose material for dot fluid works with mineral oil though i cant see why not.

Chop the fitting end off an bmx stunt peg a basic steel one the remaining part can be used as a headset crown setter. if the crown still is way too tight, cut a slot into the crown race with a hacksaw so it expands over the fork. basicly convert your unslotted crown race into a slotted one much like hope use.

Stoke ish well Congleton. Not too far away

Dual disc definitly my mates got a element and he hates the rear vee for manuals and in the wet.

I used to know a guy back in my day, who rode a dmr sidekick frame for trials it was rather nice

Its definitly earlier than 1999. 1996 sounds pretty close

Is one of the pads draging or are both the the pads touching the rotor when the brake is off

Does it still have the same power? mine sqeak from time to time without loss of power. if its a really loud honk with no power its possibly oil on the pads/rotor or glazed pads/rotor issues

In my experience of hope pro 2 hubs i have only ever seen the newer pro 2 evo hubs for gears snap the alloy freehub body's in half due the the axle getting bigger so thinner freehubs ( the trial/ss doesn't suffer this) the axle snapping on pro 2 hubs using maxle light 142/135x12 through axles. the pawl springs break after years of misuse and no servicing. the centre hub shell bearing seems to take a lot of the load in trials whenever i service mine that bearing always has indents in the bearing races, i can only assume from drops and heavy loads. hope are currently replacing the freehub body's and axles under warranty free of charge. i have been running my pro 2 evo trials hub for coming close to a year and replaced a bearing because it didn't feel new, cleaned and regreaced it once. honestly its the best hub i have ever used for trials or anything else. previously used, Shimano, halo 3 pawl xcx and 6 pawl xcs, goldtec Draco, funn, tensile 60 ffw, tensile 96 ffw, echo 108 ffw. Dicta ffw, Shimano ffw, acs claws ect...... Tried out quite a lot of stuff over the years, but i am no pro rider just your average novice/inter rider.

Pro 2 or nothing for me.

Better off using a 14" xs mountain bike for trials Or jump bike

I have got both hope f20 and burgtec mk4. i had nuke proofs before, the hopes are solid and look quality the burgtecs grip like no other pedal and the platform is massive feels much nicer if your running quite a soft sole shoe, and they do custom etched. my old nukeproofs lasted years and i still have them. Love the grip and the weight

Loved that vid Andrew, inspired me

i use fenwicks fs1, seems to do the same job mucoff does dut costs 1/10th of the price.

^new pads and good compresionless cable. if doesn't help then tar.

http://www.ashbrookroofing.co.uk/easymelt-95-25-grade-bonding-bitumen-blocks-bitumen-kegs-10kg

Top up the resevoir and check the clearance between the pads and rotor (check it doesn't rub, or bent rotor) then either straighten the rotor or adjust the caliper. if that fails then try a full bleed and clean up the pistons and a good bit of silicon lube on the seals.