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Symptoms Of Frozen Brake?


J Trials 31

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Well I had my magura on my bike and I stripped the rear hub so the bike sat for a year and I didn't even touch it, it has a water bleed so I suspect it might have frozen. I've rebleed it twice and am still not getting any power out of it, so I'm worried it might have screwed up something, I sure hope not as it's got my uber nice RB lever on it. Also does anyone know if the entire cylinder thing in the middle of the RB is supposed to move? I can move the entire thing all the around?!?

I've also tried 3 different pad setups so I don't think that's it. I did just get new wheels in from Tart with a fresh grind put on them by them as well.

Edited by J Trials 31
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If it's frozen it'll be a lot more sluggish to pull the brake/for the pistons to return and they may lock on.

Basically, as you should be able to work out, a frozen brake just has water that's turned/turning into ice. Ice is less dense and more viscous than water in liquid form, so the pistons come out and everything slows down.

I've not played with the RB levers so I'm not sure if they're meant to have any real movement in them, but it sounds like your problem is anything but frozen lines. Dodgy lever/seals/slaves/grind/poor rim/shit bleed could all play a part.

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No it would no longer be frozen, if it would have froze it would have last winter, and it has been inside for that entire time, but it's been in the basement where it's not climate controlled.

Your right it could be anything at this point. The pistons definitely aren't moving as much as they should, I hate that this happened as it was working perfect before I parked it.

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RB's are sensitive at the best of times, through in water freezing in the lines - expanding and pushing on the seals probably is a recipe for disaster, normally if your brake freezes the "easiest" thing for the brake to do is to push your callipers our as it will offer the least resistance, if the pistons are set up too close or whatever then it can split your hose or f**k your seals.

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RB's are sensitive at the best of times, through in water freezing in the lines - expanding and pushing on the seals probably is a recipe for disaster, normally if your brake freezes the "easiest" thing for the brake to do is to push your callipers our as it will offer the least resistance, if the pistons are set up too close or whatever then it can split your hose or f**k your seals.

Well that's not it then I guess, I don't see any leaking and it definitely didn't slit the hose either, it seems very weak. It's not like it's slowly going out, it's just weak. The pads that I've tried won't even hold. I've tried my Tryall Croco reds, Plazmatic Crm's and Tango 44's. Given though, all these pads are quite worn as well and I have to set them up pretty close to the rim as well. I'm looking around for some TNN clamps and booster as well because I'm running no booster and the old style Echo clamps

Edited by J Trials 31
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If you can bleed it, it's NOT frozen...

Come on Dave! He said in the thread it wasn't frozen now, just that it was sat still during the last winter and now it's fooked. He's wondering if that could have caused the problems he's experiencing now.

I'd say give it a damn good bleed, check that the lever isn't bottoming out before the pads have a chance to lock the rim. You also mentioned that the whole "cylinder thing was moving", did you mean the master cylinder in the lever was moving? In what way is it moving?

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Come on Dave! He said in the thread it wasn't frozen now, just that it was sat still during the last winter and now it's fooked.

That was more at Jamie_Trials telling him to bleed with warm water just to double check.

Best bet is to give the whole brake a once over, lubricating what you can and releasing pistons if they've seized. Then give it a good bleed and see where you're at.

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You also mentioned that the whole "cylinder thing was moving", did you mean the master cylinder in the lever was moving? In what way is it moving?

He means this bit here can be turned around

post-24247-0-97035200-1323165185_thumb.j

Mine did the same, I don't think that's the problem it sounds more like a bad bleed or the piston/seal in the levers fooked.

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I use an RB lever and recently suddenly lost all hold, it was as if the TPA was wound right in and the piston was bottoming out in the master cylinder. Turns out that the TPA adjuster had cracked almost all the way through (the thumbwheel on the end of the adjuster clashes with the lever and flexes the threaded rod causing fatigue) and was flexing enough to stop the brake holding. Replaced it with an M3 screw and all sorted :)

If it isn't leaking then you must have air in there, did you rotate the cylinder (the bit you said turns) so the bleed screw is at the highest point in the brake system? The cylinder shouldn't turn when the lever is tightened onto the bars, if it is you have something wrong. Also you have got the ball bearing behind the bleed screw haven't you? It is required to seal the lever.

Failing all of that working, strip the lever down, clean and inspect it. They're very simple, nothing really to go wrong in there.

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Come on Dave! He said in the thread it wasn't frozen now, just that it was sat still during the last winter and now it's fooked. He's wondering if that could have caused the problems he's experiencing now.

I'd say give it a damn good bleed, check that the lever isn't bottoming out before the pads have a chance to lock the rim. You also mentioned that the whole "cylinder thing was moving", did you mean the master cylinder in the lever was moving? In what way is it moving?

It does seem to be bottoming out before the pads hit the rim if I have it barely screwed in, but I haven't given a full lookover yet. Does anyone know if it makes a difference when you bleed it if it's screwed out where it's not even in there or if it's just screwed in a little ways? Also what do you mean by having the bleed screw at the highest point? Yes, it's not clamped down to the bar because I had to loosen it to bleed it, I have been bleeding it with blood, but I may take it off and give a good bath bleed, was just using the blood because it's starting to get cold here and you know what that means.

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What would happen if the brake pads were really close to the rim though. Sure the pads would hit the rim then the frozen water would have to be forced somewhere...

Yeah, at the worst it would pop the master piston out. Mine froze once and locked on... I took it off and rode home without. Didn't break it.

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