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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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And a stiff shit 3.0 which stiffens up the play in the gear changes. There is a rubber and plastic housing at the base of the gearstick that wears and in some cases (like mine) has completely broken so when i'm in gear I can move the gearstick absolutely loads as if it's in neutral. Not just sideways but also up and down. This completely eradicates this and you can adjust how stiff you actually want it which should make a massive improvement. Can't wait.

Get a shifter assembly from a Renault Scenic ~2001, it's a direct swap, will accept the SS3 and raises the lever position and the pivot, so the throw is barely any different.

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Get a shifter assembly from a Renault Scenic ~2001, it's a direct swap, will accept the SS3 and raises the lever position and the pivot, so the throw is barely any different.

I was wondering why people did this the other day, I was holding the gearstick and imagined it higher up and was like nope, definitely not for me! Doesn't feel comfortable for me.

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When I was younger the first thing I used to do was put the steering wheel down and as far in as it could go, because it felt 'sporty'

The same with cutting down gearlevers to give a shorter throw.

Fast forward a few years, and you'll find that having all the controls in the right position makes a real difference.

You're more in control with the steering wheel higher up and closer to you, and you want to keep your hands on the wheel as much as possible, so the closer the gear lever is to the wheel the better.

When it's high up and close, you don't move your arm so much, but just rotate your forearm and it's right there.

Higher gearlever is way way more comfy. I hate getting into cars now and finding I have to reach down for a gear lever

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I think I'd have to try hazs before I committed. Maybe I'll be sold :P track day would be perfect for that.

Welcome to if you weren't 200 miles away...

Seriously, it's ace. Do it, if you don't like it, you can change it back to the Clio shifter no problem.

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What Nick said, it's awesome having a higher shifter. When I did my engine swap I had to weld brackets into the shell to take the shifter that matched the engine/box and as I had free reign for it's positioning I put them up in the air and slightly offset to the drivers side. I can change between 4th and 5th with my little finger while my thumb's still on the steering wheel, and whenever I drive anything else the shifter feels miles away and horrid as a result.

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I did read as much as 50! Would there be many issues with doing that? Obviously I won't be going that far but i'm just trying to learn as much as possible before I go spending money

I'm potentially going to keep the stock bell housing and clutch setup by making a plate which is cheaper but won't handle much more power than a stage 1 remap as shown hear:

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The other option is the bell housing from a FWD box, but then that means using the hydraulic setup and seems to be far more involved...by the time I do all that i'd be wanting to upgrade the torque tube and gearbox which increases the price lots but it will allow for more power although i'm not sure i want to go that high.

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Paul, are you wanting the engine more or less slanted? If you're wanting to canter it over quite a bit then make sure you definitely use an AEB engine as they share their oil pump and sump fitment with the earlier engines meaning you can use a sump and pickup straight off a T25 to lean it right over. Can't say how the head will deal with the oil being over to one side but it seems to work in the T25s.

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