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Rear hub questions

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So I'm having issues with the latest Hope Evo 4 hubs and this issue has cost Hope 4 hubs and me 5 wheel builds and it's getting pretty annoying now. 

I wondered if there was an option available where you can buy a fixed 135 splined disc hub and a 16t splined freewheel. Essentially meaning if you had an issue with the freewheel on this it's an easy agro free replacement and this would also for those of you who can work it out totally takes away the issue that myself and others I'm told are having with the Hopes. 

Hopefully something is available? 

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Why not a screw on freewheel? 

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Are the Pro4s that bad? Not heard great things.

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bite the bullet get a chris king new or seccond hand all agro gone lol happy days

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1 hour ago, isitafox said:

Why not a screw on freewheel? 

He said he wants to remove it in case of problem.I think he ment to remove it in one piece :-)

One trick I used was to put a metal spacer (from a cassette) between the freewheel and the hub. Then you can file it and remove the screwed freewheel (or sprocket) easily. The drawback is, that the chainline is even worse.

Splined freewheel are such an improvement, but I never saw a fixed rear hub with splined (maybe effigear has something ... )

 

Ali C. is riding i9 industries hubs and he said he is satisfied with.

 

Like Leon, I would like to know, what is the recurrent problem with your hope hub.

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Keen also to know! Been running mine for 18 months without issues. Would like to be confident it isn’t going to explode on me! 

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50 minutes ago, La Bourde said:

Ali C. is riding i9 industries hubs and he said he is satisfied with.

Is Ali not using Chris King hubs?

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I've heard several times that the ratchet ring threads go on pro 4s. Something about them being thinner then the pro 2s and stripping under the loads of trials riding.

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3 hours ago, Dazza1414 said:

Is Ali not using Chris King hubs?

You are right, he is riding them again. I missed that!

Around 2017 he tested some hubs for I9 (a freecoaster hub for example).

He came back to CK in 2019:

 

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There are definitely other worthy freehub options out there (Industry 9, Chris King, Profile etc) but Hope is by far the cheapest. Crewkerz make a splined disc, but it's 12mm through axle. Echo and Zhi make 135 fixed splined disc hubs too, but you'd have to use Echo freewheel and I'm not sure it they make a 16t. Looks like screw on or a $400 hub is in your future. Also, looks like TMS makes a trials specific 72 click single speed freehub that is 10mm bolt on and only 169 euros, but I don't know anything about it. Good luck!

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Didn't know that TMS produces this hub, looks good!

 

I found some Novatech hubs. Here the catalog.

Novatech produces for several brands and their products are good and pricey.

  • XD262SB-A6A (6 pawls)
  • D252SB-BO-AA (4 pawls)
  • D252SBT (4 pawls)
  • D256SBT (4 pawls)

Only the first one has 6 pawls..Not sure how many clicks they have.They are designed for DJ, so they shall be strong enough.

 

 

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13 hours ago, La Bourde said:

Ali C. is riding i9 industries hubs and he said he is satisfied with.

Ali isn't, but Danny MacAskill, Duncan Shaw, John Langlois, Ben Travis and a few other riders are. Seem to be holding up for all of them really well. They are super expensive though.

There aren't any splined freewheels that are compatible with any of the currently-available splined fixed hubs so that's a non-starter. I don't think using a screw-on freewheel is the end of the world though. They're pretty easy to remove if you need to - bolt the tool to the hub/freewheel, put that in a vice, grab the wheel then just turn it off. Even easier if you actually use a decent amount of some decent grease too.

About those catalogue hubs: no thanks. I've got what I believe is a Novatec rear hub on my MTB and when it's not munching through bearings it's skipping away. With Luke's track record for breaking Hopes, I don't think a generic catalogue hub either from a dirt/MTB brand or with a trials logo on it (if they've even bothered branding them) is necessarily the way to go.

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16 hours ago, isitafox said:

Why not a screw on freewheel? 

 

13 hours ago, Mikee said:

I've heard several times that the ratchet ring threads go on pro 4s. Something about them being thinner then the pro 2s and stripping under the loads of trials riding.

What I'm trying to avoid is having a threaded rear hub on 26" 

The Hope setup is shocking right now. 

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4 hours ago, La Bourde said:

Didn't know that TMS produces this hub, looks good!

 

I found some Novatech hubs. Here the catalog.

Novatech produces for several brands and their products are good and pricey.

  • XD262SB-A6A (6 pawls)
  • D252SB-BO-AA (4 pawls)
  • D252SBT (4 pawls)
  • D256SBT (4 pawls)

Only the first one has 6 pawls..Not sure how many clicks they have.They are designed for DJ, so they shall be strong enough.

 

 

Power put through a DJ drivetrain is nothing like the power put through a trials drivetrain, especially for a big chunk of sexiness like Luke

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4 hours ago, Mark W said:

Ali isn't, but Danny MacAskill, Duncan Shaw, John Langlois, Ben Travis and a few other riders are. Seem to be holding up for all of them really well. They are super expensive though.

I'm running an i9 Hydra as well, since June last year. So far it's been holding up perfectly, even under a hack like me :P Had issues with the Hope Pro 4 too, bearing housing way out of tolerance, it ate bearings for breakfast and ran like crap. Hope initially served me off with some BS, but eventually I got my money back and figured I'd do it right this time around and invest in some proper quality. No regrets; yes, it's 2/3 more expensive than Hope, but the machining is on another level, and that instant engagement, wow!

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5 hours ago, isitafox said:

Power put through a DJ drivetrain is nothing like the power put through a trials drivetrain, especially for a big chunk of sexiness like Luke

Depends if the rider is riding some street ... I bought a pro 4s from a dj/street rider and even the steel freewheel body had some deep scratches, so that I had to file them to put a cog on.

Guess when one is doing 180 halfcab with 30km/h (with a bitch crank) you have almost the same torque there.

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You will get the sprockets digging in from riding XC too, that is completely normal.

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I agree with you if you use thin sprockets (and it will be even worse with an alloy body). But the scratches are wide (5-6mm) on this hub and it is a steel body, as I mentioned.

I have another Pro 4s, that I use now for 2-3 years for trial and the scratches are not so bad. Before I had a pro II ss and the scratches weren't that bad too.

Maybe this is due to the kinetic energy, that can be much important riding street.

The chain/cogs on a dj/street bike are typically 1/8"  wide.

 

 

 

IMG_0229.JPG

IMG_0230.JPG

Edited by La Bourde

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15 hours ago, La Bourde said:

I agree with you if you use thin sprockets (and it will be even worse with an alloy body). But the scratches are wide (5-6mm) on this hub and it is a steel body, as I mentioned.

I have another Pro 4s, that I use now for 2-3 years for trial and the scratches are not so bad. Before I had a pro II ss and the scratches weren't that bad too.

Maybe this is due to the kinetic energy, that can be much important riding street.

The chain/cogs on a dj/street bike are typically 1/8"  wide.

 

 

 

IMG_0229.JPG

IMG_0230.JPG

I have a pro 4 hub that is currently been okay since 2017. 

 

I got a new hope pro 4 2020 and that's been my issue. Without me having the same failure in the first (2017) hub I can't find out if the threads are different or not. 

My current hub Hope didn't use locktite but a bonding to try avoid this happening but I can't see it working. 

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