craigjames

For 26" that's pretty much your standard gearing with 175mm cranks. Mod 18:12 with 165-170mm cranks, although I personally just run the 175mm cranks i had on my stock. What bike do you have?

Could it be the fork mount is welded incorrectly? Had a few forks like when I used to run a disc, Joe McGrew's Bonz post mount forks needed modding to get his post mount Hope to fit and to allow the rotor bolts to clear.

Not exactly big by Joe's standards, but i liked it none the less. Apologies used my camera phone, so not the best quality! Photoshopped sequence courtesy of Matthew_Gibson Cheers dude!

Get on Brown Bear, you're riding has improved so much in the last year; nice to see progression throughout the vid When you coming to these southern climes?

I kinda agree, overall i really enjoyed it, but some bits did seem to drag...

Watched all of breaking bad in a week, really enjoyed it. Started The Walking Dead last weekend and got hooked so now i'm halfway through season 4. Started this a few weeks ago and gonna watch the latest episode tonight, it's brilliant; really enjoy it. Brutal fight scenes, well written and acted, some funny bits and really quite interesting (historically wise). Just not sure how long they can keep it going with a varied and interesting storyline.

If you're concerned about the TT sl forks, even though it's the 4 bolt versions that seem to be snapping (It's all the bigger riders tend to use), then email or call Tarty and ask about the disk version? Comparing disc with 4 bolt forks isn't really fair.

Plus they're snapping on the 4 bolt mounts.... not on the disc version.

As said you won't be able to as they are made by CK/for CK to their own specs. Brought in by Evolution imports, King prices seem to be pretty fixed, so i very much doubt you'll find it cheaper anywhere and if so not by very much.

Twitchy, but at least it sounds good

It's awesome stuff, we use it at work, frees up bolts that have been submerged in salt water for the best part of ten years no problems.

Because like most reporters they didn't really look into things properly and get their facts straight Was Andrei Burton and Joe Seddon, I think the free runners we're mistakenly named in the article as the two we know about.

Torque Tube i think he said earlier.

Such a good stage, looked like the old man was pinning it!Nice to see some spectators on the stage, i've not been up for years!

Regulation 54(2) of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 as amended: 'Every exhaust system and silencer shall be maintained in good and efficient working order and shall not be altered to increase the noise made by the escape of exhaust gases. And as of Feb this year it's also a failure if they find you've done a DPF delete.

I was having a conversation with one of the blokes at work about cars and he was going on about his old Capris, how they were always such a handful and how sandbags were the only solution... just made me laugh. Sorry if i poked a nerve, was only in jest.

Surely all you need is a couple of sandbags over the rear axle Matt?

Shimano Saint, Zee or SLX cranks will be up to the job.

Maybe they got someone from Monty to design them

Wow.

To be honest, with an inspired it's probably ok, they're pretty damn strong frames and it's all relative to the increase in stiffness. BUt if you start increasing stiffness it transfers the force that would be absorbed by the inherent flex in the frame, those forces have to go somewhere and can lead to cracking etc. But I don't think it's really something you'll have to worry about too much. Pro2 hubs with a bolted axle are pretty damn stiff and lots of people run those without an issue. What are you considering? A 10 or 12mm x135 QR axle? Don't think you'd make it any stiffer without having the axle screwing in the dropout like the newer Fourplay frames.

2. Stiffer rear end, although if the frame isn't designed to have such a stiffness it can cause issues. 3. Doubt anyone has, welding up most aluminium frames without being able to carry out post weld heat treatment will cause a weakening in the weld area due to the HAZ. Hence why re-welded frames tend not to last too long. That and most of the time the crack isn't arrested properly and the weld merely covers it; allowing the crack to propagate. What ideas have you got? Feel free to share, sure lots of people on here would be able to help you out and give you some advice

This one??: Similar front end, probably from the same factory.

But Alex that's because you're running a relatively unusual gearing, the frame isn't designed to run it. Check the holy gear ratio chart. I know chainstay length is dictated by gearing, chain and tension; but 16:14 is a bit of an odd combo now a days. In fact i'd be surprised if it worked perfectly with any modern trials frame.

Ran mine with 18:15, KMC610HX, echo SL or TryAll mounts and no tensioner blocks with no issues at all. In fact I know probably 10 other people using this frame a 18:15 ratio and various 4 bolt mounts with no issues, never heard of anyone having an issue until now