Prawny Baby Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I'm looking at Building my own exhaust for the A3, has anyone else ever done anything similar and can share advice? I want a 3'' cat back system, and sadly none of the custom exhaust places can do over 2.5'', which I already have. The plan is to fab up a twin box system using a fairly long (18-24'') 5'' round silencer in the centre section, and then a largeish back box, (something like 5x7x24). Joints will all be on V-bands. I'm perfectly happy fabricating the system, and tacking it together to get the shape, but I'm unsure about welding it up properly, could something like that be migged with stainless wire? or should it go somewhere proper to be tig'd? Does anyone have ANY idea on how you would go about designing a system to come in under a certain noise level? I need it to come in under 95dBa to make sure it's compliant at all trackdays Current system is 2.5'' from the cat back, with a large single rear silencer and twin 2.5'' tail pipes, and records 86dBa on most trackdays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 ^Mmmmmm series 3! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) What do people think of the new mot rules for pre 1960 cars? I really think it is a daft idea. I don't think so! You still won't be allowed to drive an un-roadworthy car, just the responsibility of keeping it in check is solely the responsibility of the owner (who with pre-60 cars would probably be keeping it well up to scratch anyway) Old commercial stuff's been MOT exempt since the 80's with no issues. I'll probably still stick mine through an MOT once a year or so just to check everything's in order, anyway. Edited May 23, 2012 by Skoze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 What is this new rule? No MOT's for pre-65 cars? Does it apply to bikes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I think it is an excellent idea, however you will find a lot of classic cars having the registration numbers removed and sold unless they regulate that a bit better. It is the same policy they have in America, the cars still need to be roadworthy and comply to UK road laws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Pre '60. No idea about bikes but I think it's rediculous. No one asked for it, no one wanted it, and when polls were done the vast majority of people said they were against it. So much for a democracy then. It's just yet another example of the EU sticking there nose into legislation where it's not welcome. The main problem most people have with it is that it's likely just the first step towards restricted use for historic vehicles like some European countries already have. As long as historic vehicles are subject to mostly the same laws and rules, they can't really restrict their use, but the more exemptions they give, the more likely they are to go 'well you don't pay tax or have an MOT, so it's not really acceptable for it to be every day transport'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 That will never happen IMO. And if it did they would have to kill me to part with my Pop, so it wouldn't bother me anyway haha! I think it will show a large rise in chassis swapping and ringing too, which probably isn't a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Still no key. Been waiting on the dealer since Thursday. ANNOYING!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 making your own system wont really be that hard if your not doing a manifold. i wouldn't mig it, you could do. stainless wire and a 5%argon co2 mix gas i think it is. if you mig it you'll have a hell of a lot of sanding to do to get it nice and it would be a ball ache in the corners to sand with the right tools. tig will give a pritty weld if done right that you could just leave. also for the price of wire it would be just as cheap to get local fabies to weld it with tig. you can usually even by tubes with bends in it now for stuff like this off ebay ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 With MIG on stainless you should really by using pure Argon. As basher says, it shouldn't be too hard to knock it up, see my post further up for the downpipe I made for the Scirocco when I fitted the 1.6td, that probably took about 30 minutes to make. I know it's not the prettiest, but it was cobbled together on the cheep with random bits of pipe. There's no reason MIG welds can't look half decent. That's MIG on stainless, although using mild steel wire, and I wouldn't have said it looks bad at all. (Ignore the lower weld and splodges to the right where I was filling gaps! haha.) In your position Nick, I'd probably tack it together then take it down to a local place all cleaned up and ready to be TIG'd, it'd likely barely cost any more than a bottle of Argon and a roll of stainless wire. I can't say I know what you should be doing box wise, but I think you'd be safe with most two box systems on a 1.8t, especially if you're not using a bad-boy fart-cannon exit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uldis Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) I like that red b 4 avant, it's nice Edited May 23, 2012 by uldis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Im looking at removing my silencer shit from my two boxes at the back of my car. Would it be simply removing the exhaust, cutting the box in half and removing the crap inside and getting someone to weld it back up? Im wanting as little restrictions as possible in the exhaust and ive been told that this would be the cause after the decat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 It is nice, it's now re-shelled into a white diesel. The same chap's got a rather interesting selection of cars: mk4/5 cortina on Hydraulics: Manta sporting a supercharged V8: Benz drift car, completely stripped (cut back loom, plastic windows ect..) with a 3.4 24v straight 6: There's also a mk1 Fiesta and a mk2 Escort roadster in his fleet too, but I can't be arsed to find pictures. haha. Im looking at removing my silencer shit from my two boxes at the back of my car. Would it be simply removing the exhaust, cutting the box in half and removing the crap inside and getting someone to weld it back up? Im wanting as little restrictions as possible in the exhaust and ive been told that this would be the cause after the decat. It'd be much easier and less restrictive to weld straight pipe in instead of messing with the boxes, but yeah, that's essentially all there is too it, although some of the boxes aren't direct, so you'd want to cut out the baffles and place straight pipe in to remove the restriction as well as the silencing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Manta sporting a supercharged V8: Yes please. More please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Just spent a couple of hours hoovering out my car, front and back was easy but the boot is an absolute twat and is going to take at least another couple of hours to get anywhere near clean. Usually I wouldn't complain about having redheads in my boot (oooh errrr haha) but the previous owner must have had a ginger dog and the boot is covered in hair which is a nightmare to clean out. I am using a hair removal brush, the hoover and also plucking some of the hairs out with my fingers I will be happy once this job is finished! Next job on the list is to clean up the exhaust tips with some Autosol, I hope this is a much easier task!The past couple of nights I spent just over 4 hours cleaning the dog hair out of the boot and am finally happy. It turns out the best way to remove dog hairs from car upholstery is by using a rubber glove and rubbing it over the carpet to pull the hairs out before hoovering them up! Autosol is awesome stuff, the tail pipes polished up nicely. They wouldn't win any competitions for being perfect but are MUCH cleaner than they were! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Bonjour ladies, I need some opinions. As you know, I'm now the proud owner of a French tin can (106 Zest 2, 2000, 1.1). The radiator "weeps" (To quote my MOT advisory) and as such I've had to keep filling it up. The temperature warning light still keeps coming on after about 5-10 minutes of driving, so I have done some research online and narrowed it down to: 1) Airlock - this makes sense, as I guess the weeping rad would let air in through it's leak? Is it worth trying RadWeld and then bleeding the system and re-filling? 2) The heaters in the car don't work so it could be the thermostat. Any thoughts? To add further detail, the fan kicks in very quickly and stays on for a minute or so when the car is turned off. Even after short journeys. So, any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uldis Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Bonjour ladies, I need some opinions. As you know, I'm now the proud owner of a French tin can (106 Zest 2, 2000, 1.1). The radiator "weeps" (To quote my MOT advisory) and as such I've had to keep filling it up. The temperature warning light still keeps coming on after about 5-10 minutes of driving, so I have done some research online and narrowed it down to: 1) Airlock - this makes sense, as I guess the weeping rad would let air in through it's leak? Is it worth trying RadWeld and then bleeding the system and re-filling? 2) The heaters in the car don't work so it could be the thermostat. Any thoughts? To add further detail, the fan kicks in very quickly and stays on for a minute or so when the car is turned off. Even after short journeys. So, any ideas?? heaters don't work because of leaking radiator. no coolant = no heat. thermostat should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) Sounds like an air lock rather than stat, if the stat was stuck then I wouldn't expect the fan to kick in early, because its sensor (which is in the rad) wouldn't be getting hot. Plus no heat from the blower is a classic air-lock symptom. Try bleeding it first off, and see if it helps things. Edited May 24, 2012 by RobinJI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 As Robin says. Give all the hoses (mainly the one coming from the bottom of the rad is the main one I think?) a good squeeze and try to 'burp' the air out. A glove is a good idea or you'll get pretty warm hands pretty quickly If you do have a small leak, Radweld should work fine, have used it a couple of times in the past (once in my 106 actually!). K-Seal seems to get slightly better reviews though: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a738e427f - used this in my MX-5 and it's held up to a track day and a drift day without any issues so far Don't think it's ideal on newer vehicles though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I used Wynn's in the end, same idea though. I have bled the system a few times (Every time I refilled it!) I drove home and did a couple of extra miles, so far so good - no lights on and heat from the heaters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Awesome - sounds like it's done the trick then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Wooo I got this thread going again Just look at it now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Won't that still rub? been driving ti since sunday like that and even with the bike rack, 2 DH bikes, 2 people and a load of tools n kit in the boot i get a very slight bit of contact between the arch and the very edge of the rim. home made bump stops will be in the pipe line before VW fest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Cleaned out the idle control valve on my focus today, typical ford problem. It's quite difficult to get it out but I'm glad it's done. I've noticed the engine warms up really quick too, not sure what to think about it. Probably needs new coolant anyway. Also found window tint for £6 so I thought I might as well try my hand at applying it. It'll be fun, even if it goes terribly wrong. Dann2707, or other focus owners, how do I determine the exact paint code? Ford seem to be very awkward with their paint codes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I have no idea mate. I still don't know mine haha. Get yourself on Focusownersclub its a mint forum and its free to be a member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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