Pashley26 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Scrap it, buy a car that hasn't been off the road for years. There is a reason people park cars up. Sorry for sounding like a fanny. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I think the engine might just need another pot of £800 wax put inside it? Or direct my to working car for good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Jardo may spend more on wax than you do on cars, but both his cars and his waxes work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 This is truth. Jardo, I was looking into finance again, and I can get a car on lease through the Firestation (part of the council lease scheme) got any advice on cars or leasing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Fiesta, they are amazing. Thanks Luke, I lolled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Why are they amazing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Quigley Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 The rough idle and cutting out is probably the crank case breather being so clogged. It looks like a HG failure though. My car ,M52B28, kept cutting out at junctions and had a crap idle and I found kink in the crank case breather hose, sorted that and all is good. How does it run if you unplug the MAF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Sort out a compression test and/or gas test the header tank. Only real way to be sure. Just been told we're not allowed to film at the rally Shame, I was looking forward to having some good footage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Really excited about this years' BMW Challenge. A friend is preparing 6 identical lightweight 328is's for the Sprint class so him and his buddies are going to have an absolute blast competing against each other. I love his approach which is leave the engine stock but get the car as light as possible, buy proper Reiger or AST suspension and a proper motorsport diff. My class which is Open will have 3-4 new drivers one of whom is amazingly fast. My last run of the season when I was fighting for the championship (and lost by 0.23s) was nearly suicidal and he finished only 1 second behind me in a rented car. Now he's bought that car, converted half the body panels to kevlar reinforced CF and installed much better suspension. I honestly can't wait for the first round. I usually just drive ahead not trying too hard but the 2014 season is going to be properly tough. This means one of two things - I'll become a much quicker driver or crash the car Hope it's the former. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I don't believe it's a hg because it's not oil mustard on the dipstick, the waterloss ratio is only as bad as mu old e36 328 and I know that one ran perfect, even on lots of short trips, never foamed at the oil cap. I think the breather needs cleaning, and potentially a new pipe, but at the angle the car was earlier, I couldn't get the pipe off to check for cracks, or clean it. Atm I'm putting it down to: ICV CCV Old S.plugs And sump gasket. A chap at work said about getting the injectors atomized! O_O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godbarber Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I really need some help, I brokended my girlfriends mini and she's not happy! It's a Mini One 1.4 Petrol 2008 Just a little background, I serviced my partners car today (just new spark plugs and an oil change/filter change) and everything was working fine. I just went to pick her up from work in the car and the brake pedal went REALLY hard to press and struggles to apply the brakes at all. When I got back I opened the bonnet to see if anything was amiss and me being a moron looks like I snapped something (no idea what). I was just wondering if anybody could tell me what it is and better yet how to replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have to take it needs to be MOT'd tomorrow too Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 You've snapped the brake servo vacuum pipe. You might be able to glue it back together, but I personally wouldn't trust it...let alone on my girlfriends car. Something like that will be a BMW parts job, or a scrapyard, no way of repairing it other than gluing. Doubtful it will pass the MOT if you have to put as much pressure on the brakes as you describe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Just had a quick look on ebay, found this, which has the part you want on it, but its a lot more than I'm betting you're wanting to pay! There's no real need to buy the whole buy either I guess. It's an option though: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Cooper-One-06-13-1-4-petrol-vacuum-pump-263-/290976251807?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AMini&hash=item43bf893f9f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) I reckon you could make an effective repair on that, but it would need some careful prep and time spent on it; much simpler and potentially safer to replace with a new unit. To repair it you would need to initially glue it to hold the stub in place, then you would need to reinforce the joint. You could wrap it with several layers of fibreglass mat and resin or possibly epoxy resin and cloth to form a rigid shell. Getting it completely clean and keyed in order to get good adhesion with the resin would be imperative. It all depends on how skint you are and how confident you are on making the repair work. edit: looking at the photo again, you would need to get sufficient epoxy/glass structure onto the remaining base of the part as possible, getting a close tight laminate around the reinforcing ribs will help support the repair. It looks that the base can be removed from the housing, I wouldn't even attempt a repair with it in situ. Edited January 23, 2014 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I had to change the FSR (hedgehog) resistor in my car last night because the heating had packed up. I'm still traumatised by just how ridiculously difficult BMW decided to make that ultimately simple job Tonight, however, I finally get to route my aux cable to where I want it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godbarber Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 That pump on Ebay looks like it may be my best bet, If I don't get one second hand I am gonna' have to go through the dealer who will only sell the whole pump which is £340, I can't just buy the damn connector! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Just wondered how you were getting on with it, I have been looking about at cars and an S14 falls in my budget. I have always liked the look of them, and I have seen some great track builds and time attack builds. So I just wanted to know a bit more about them, from somebody who has had one but won't be overly biased about them. Basically what I want is a 3/4000 car, that will go well, handle well, easy to get bits for and work on and will be reasonable to drive daily. It has to be reliable, which I know is very car specific. But generally I believe the SR to be a good engine, but things like turbos are the weak link? How true is that? I know it is a bit of a pointless exercise because I probably won't buy one, but I would still like to know if you have the time Mine was a totally standard automatic with 100k miles on the clock with an extensive dealer service history. For the money i paid and the money I've spent I'm more than happy with it. Mines been completely reliable, not missed a beat in the 10k I've driven it. Feels to be a strong engine. I've helped with putting an SR into a e36 over last summer with a load of aftermarket bits and custom bits. Both engines have been good, I've been running mine at 13psi(standard is 9psi) for months and it seems to love it. I wouldn't say the t28 turbo is weak, but i have heard of a few t25 not lasting so long. the e36 now has a gt2871r, apexi ecu, apexi AVCr. FMIC, flywheel, tubular manifold 3" elbows down pipe and system. Coming from the Vauxhall and BMW worlds i was well happy with the amount of 2nd hand and off the shelf upgrades available. They are a great feeling car to drive. The seating position feels very sport and jap coupe. Obviously the room for rear seat passengers is minimal. Handling even with 15+yr old suspension was better than the E36. Brakes wouldn't tend to get hot when it was an auto and i was having winding back road fun, but seem to be better now its manual. For £3-4000 you should be able to get yourself a well looked after and clean standardish one, or a modified but slightly tatty one. They do suffer from rust unfortunately. I've had to replace both my rear inner arches and the sills will need doing after the next MOT. Going sideways in it feels so good in it. I prefer the 14a over the 14 but i am biased, just prefer the headlights, everything else is the same though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Mega excited! Today my inserts for my engine test for my dissertation were finally created! Been going back and forth to the uni workshop to make sure they're perfect. So each is going to be situated in the air intake just before the inlet manifold in 4 different tests. The three pictured along with the standard egr inlet passage. They're varying in size to see how a clogged egr + inlet manifold affects the running of a diesel engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 :bow: As if you managed to blag that as a dissertation subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 What do you mean Ads? It's quite in depth compared to some other topics we were given. I decided to make this one up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 so you're going to bolt those somewhere in the inlet tract, turn the key, then try and drive it and see what happens? that'll be interesting! My bets are it won't even run with the smallest hole, just looks FAR too small I'd have thought! it'll try and ingest the plate, then when it can't suck any more it'll collapse any non rigid hoses engine side of the plate. interesting subject for sure, looking forward to your results! how will be you be quantifying the running data in various states of restriction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 The engine is going to be rigged up to the dyno this week, which measures all the parameters such as fuel consumption, emissions, engine power as you'd expect etc and from there we can choose how much load we want to apply to the engine along with the engine speed! So its not actually going to be physically driven. I'm looking forward to the results so much, the best thing is.. the technician said to me "This engine is yours, do whatever you want to it, if it blows up it blows up" and when I said about the 5mm hole test is "going to be interesting" he just let out a massive evil laugh and said he can't wait. Absolutely love it! It's going to be placed here: Sorry it's just a screenshot, on the downstairs comp away from everything It might run when it's on the smallest hole as it will be using the egr gas too,hopefully it will as it will affect all of the said parameters and i'll get beautiful results I can talk about Better than "testing noise vibrations on a model railway train" that my friend is doing haha The weirdest thing is seeing this cad model knowing I made them and I can now physically touch them haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Looks like the changeable ends for one of those f**kable flash lights. If you ask me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) My prediction It just won't rev up (and maybe even start) with a 5mm hole if it has a maf, surely? What operates the egr, solenoid or vacuum? *hadnt read prawns post... that Edited January 23, 2014 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I'm looking forward to the results so much, the best thing is.. the technician said to me "This engine is yours, do whatever you want to it, if it blows up it blows up" and when I said about the 5mm hole test is "going to be interesting" he just let out a massive evil laugh and said he can't wait. Absolutely love it! . Film it just incase it does? Also, not a dodgy copy of windows you're running there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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