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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Just got home from an epic day of clearing out shit, picking up shit and getting deafened by Motorhead.

As for the engine, it's currently sat in the unit with diesel in the bores - apparently the answer to my question of 'does it turn over?' should have been no, but that's a chance you take buying stuff unseen. Still, a few squirts of WD40 saw the cam followers out with no wear, cam is nice and fairly fresh, so i've got hope for the rest. I already have new rings, so even if it comes to some hot oil it should be ok. Most importantly though, the heads are good. And I got a box of goodies, some EBAY RARE stuff and a remote oil cooler.

Was an odd collection though - ended up in some arse-end of nowhere industrial estate in Newhaven before putting two and two together. Who races Essex V6s? Banger boys. Their yard was insane, had a troop of kids race-prepping something in the back, endless dead things, a Datsun 180b/ 1200 estate (couldn't quite tell) due to be raced that made me want to cry, yanks, Merc estates due to go to Belgium for a series.. Mad. Good blokes though.

Apparently this engine used to be raced in a Mk1 Capri Super Rod, before ending its life in a Toyota Starlet (!) until the guy quit racing. Bizarre.

Either way, i'm looking forward to making it work. Project 200bhp Essex on a budget is go.

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Yeah I was going to add the vents once I've printed it, that way I can find the perfect place for them although i'm pretty sure at the bottom would be best (obviously fill it up upside down). Jardo, isn't that 85 shore stuff going to be fairly stiff? It needs to be very flexible and squishy so it can fit into the hatch lock aperture. What would be a suitable release agent? The 3d printer leaves a texture so i'm figuring it will be a bitch to remove :(

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I can if I make the mould thin walled and nearly hollow inside I guess, it's not like it costs much to print anyway but they will probably take the best part of a day to print out. If they work then I know a few club members will want them as the seals are new £100+, secondhand £50+.....

I'll try cheap silicone first, pretty sure i've got a tube in the shed that i've not used :)

Edited by CurtisRider
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Oh and use beeswax to prime the mould, just get it rubbed into all surfaces and it should release ok :)

Most pourable silicones have a release agent built in, pretty expensive though but if you can sell them for more than 5 quid a pop you're profiting massively. Google 2 part pourable casting silicone.

Edited by forteh
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I'd use PVA as a release agent, it works well and if you get the thickness right it should smooth out the mould surface quite well too. A quick squirt of a silicone based 'back to black' type product will probably help too. Silicone isn't tooo sticky anyway, it'll certainly be a lot easier to get out than polyurethane. A soft material will always be easier to release without hurting the mould than a hard one anyway as you don't have to release it all at once.

Edit: Or yeah, wax would work nicely too, it'll just be trickier to get into the sharper corners properly.

Edited by RobinJI
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Things that I did today include fitting spacers and fitting polyurethane filled engine mounts.
10644923_1558412551040587_39311903477702
Take that engine mount.
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Gearbox mount. Nice and wonkey ;)
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Spacers.
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20mm rear.
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Camber innit.
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15mm front.
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Arch gap of champions.
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Inside innit.
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The new engine mounts make my face ache. I like them though.
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No Tom.

I wear so many different types of footwear, the driving position changes daily.

And do I want to be hunched up on the steering wheel like I'm on track when I'm just cruising to work? No. It might offend you but I like it.

No, the toe on my rear wheels is absolutely f**king perfect. Your eyes are telling you fibs.

And in your fury at my wonky exhaust you didn't even mention my wonky number plate. See it works.

Tom should be fixing his Mini, Rich should be pouring pints, I should be posting pictures, belittling others and buying aftershave. That's the way of the world.

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