SamKidney Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Cambelt and water pump on. Two weeks and counting... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 The Mk3 video looks a lot smoother towards the end. I know nothing about racing but it looks like its a bit 'snatchy' at the end of a slide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Yeah, that last lap I was trying to actually put a clean one together rather than be a hooligan You are right, it does seem to come out of a slide in quite a snappy way yep, I think I need to increase the damping at the rear a little (meant to do it for the second session, but forgot!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Made that crank bolt my bitch. Eventually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I just found my paperwork from FCM and they've written in tiny text: "Front inner rods need replacing". Nice of them to tell me that... My fault for not properly reading the paperwork though I guess - that answers my question then! I'll replace them and see if that sorts the clunky, loose steering. Fingers crossed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Pretty poor IMO that they went ahead and did the geo anyway, it won't be right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 He did point out that he couldn't quite hit the geo I'd asked for and they charged me £50 instead of the £120 I was quoted. He also asked me beforehand whether I wanted to go for it because the parts were old etc... I was warned that it wouldn't be spot on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Well, at least you didn't get those other bits and blow a load of money not solving the issue and creating more down the line I guess Fingers crossed it sorts it out for you (which it sounds like it should). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 So I had the day off today (before starting a new posting tomorrow) and decided to use some of it to try and tackle this damn crank bolt. I'd previously had the block in the stand with a 3' breaker bar on there and it'd got me absolutely nowhere. Soaked the bolt in PlusGas a few times a day for a week, still no joy. Had tried all the usual tricks of giving the bolt a knock to try and release it etc with no success. On the plus side, I got the new engine into my car today. On the downside, it was only for transportation purposes! Headed over to visit my grandad as he's got a relatively well kitted out garage. Unfortunately when they moved a few years ago he got rid of a lot of tools as he went from a huge (triple/more) garage to a double and simply didn't have the room nor the requirement for half the kit he used to be using regularly on cars/boats/etc. After giving things another whirl with breaker bars and assorted extensions, we dug out an old air driven impact gun and fired up the compressor; No joy. Suspecting that the small compressor simply didn't have the capacity to store enough energy, we added another bottle into the mix to see if it made a difference. It didn't, but the ghetto setup was fairly amusing! Engine back in the car, I figured I'd call in to a friend's garage and see if he had anything that might do the trick. Again, we tried assorted breaker bars with no luck. Then he pulled out a battery impact gun that seemed fairly meaty; Still nothing. Another compressor driven air gun failed once more to move the thing at all. Eventually, with a 4ft, 3/4" drive breaker bar on the bolt and a 5ft long, 2" thick crowbar to counter on the block with 4 of us hanging off it we managed to finally get that bloody bolt to undo. SUCCESS AT LAST! Back in the car, I got the engine home and returned it to the stand in the garage. Pulled off the front flange to reveal the whole reason I had to pull this in the first place - the singe 10mm bolt to remove the plastic chain tensioner. So much effort for such a trivial component! You can see here why I did it though - last thing I want happening is for the engine to suffer as a result of not replacing this cheap part. Gave things a wipe down, but will give them a more thorough going over before I start putting parts back in. Given that I've not had to pull the entire crankshaft out I'm not 100% sure if I'll do the main bearings as well, though I'm very tempted since I've got this far. I know most people seem to leave it in place when fitting rods despite having to re-hone the cylinders, though I'm not a big fan of this method as you need to be far more careful of debris damaging the crank journals and also run the risk of knocking the oil squirters. Lots to go wrong. Will price it all up and see how it looks. It'd be nice to have the peace of mind but I can't go throwing crazy money at this so we shall see. One thing was apparent when I had this lot off - there was a tooth missing from the oil pump drive sprocket. Found the tooth inside the front housing. This'll need replacing before everything goes back together so need to get my hands on a new one - not the end of the world, as with anything chain driven the sprocket has signs of light wear so replacing it won't hurt at all. In other news: Visiting grandparents resulted in a few bonus goodies. These'll be very handy when checking everything's within tolerance prior to reassembly. Also: This lovely lot is now on the way to its new home. Didn't even get bolted up to my car in the end! Full turbo back 3" Cobra exhaust, spanking new Relentless Pro 4 ceramic coated manifold, hybrid K04-023 turbo and associated gaskets, seals and fittings. Slight shame that I didn't ever get to see what they'd do on this car, but look forward to seeing how the new owner gets on with them and they clear space/funds to put towards the evolution of mine so all is not lost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I've become lost over time, what is it you're actually doing Luke? Engine conversion? Uprated engine? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I'm going to be fitting a different turbo at some point in the nearish future (potentially a similar K04-064 to Prawn's), so this is the same (near enough) 1.8t as standard but I'm fitting forged rods as the stock ones have a tendency to bend around 300lbft. While I'm at it I'm replacing a load of other bits to refresh things as much as possible, so most seals/gaskets, bearings, oil pump/pickup/tensioner and so on are all being swapped out for new parts. As much as I'd love to convert to an over bored stroker that's more money than I want to be putting into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I've been chatting to my dad about consuming a few bays of one of our buildings so I have a fresh workshop space as mine is beyond bothering to save and I really need to be moving all my workshop stuff back to the farm soon. I have done a quick Sketchup layout but realised 3 bays won't be enough, I think I will need 4 as apart from the stuff in the images I need to be able to squeeze in another lathe, swager, floor standing polisher, brake press, other welders, and a space for a long term project to sit in a rotisserie/become a spray booth when needed. It'll have an extraction system seeing as I already have a nice set up waiting, and plenty of strip lighting. I'm trying to think of a way that everything is accessible easily but equipment that is less used is tucked away. Seeing as this is part of a larger building, I will have a nice open section in front that is covered so I can do larger metalwork projects outside the workshop. I want to leave space so a ramp can be installed later but my drive on hydraulic ramps will suffice for now. A separate building will be used for storing cars, parts and materials. And once that is done I need to home all my woodwork equipment, that's an even larger collection 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Luke, do the main caps too. You'd be a fool not too at this stage. Get the block honed, then get it hot tanked. Start the upgrade with a totally clean base. From experience I wouldn't ever re-fit standard size pistons into an old engine again. I did that, and although the piston rings were on the "loose end of acceptable", I ended up with piston slap, which sounded shite when cold. I'd go for 82mm or 83mm, that way you ensure you have a fresh bore that is perfectly round and within tolerances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 It's going to have to be a fairly thorough rebuild as that oil drive gear that's missing a tooth only comes as part of a complete crankshaft from VW/TPS. There are one or two places that will sell you an aftermarket one for a fortune but that's not ideal so I'm hoping to track one down elsewhere if possible. Either way, I'm likely to be pulling the crank to replace it so if I'm going to that extent I'm almost just as well picking up another crank to put in. Scrub that, may have found a supplier. Going to measure the shit out of everything later on today with a bit of luck, so will see where the number lie and take it from there. As nice as it'd be to stroke and bore it out to a 2.1l monster, I need to draw the line somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Well dang, found a couple of places that could hook me up but they each wanted in the region of £75 or so plus combinations of VAT, shipping, Import Duty etc. Was looking like my only realistic option, given that Seat couldn't supply it, VW couldn't supply it, Skoda couldn't supply it and I was pretty disappointed since I'd seen old forum posts from one or two people who'd managed it years ago. Then I finally got an email from Audi, who apparently can. Slightly confusing, particularly since it was the chap from VW who contacted them and passed on my details just on the offchance. £18.80 including VAT, dropped to my door because the chap at the dealer lives down the road. Bingo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Bit of bedtime reading for the TTtdi. Each booklet has 15+ pages of wiring diagrams. Going to be dreaming pinouts! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't envy you on that front, George! Electrical stuff is still very much a dark art to me really. Just took some initial measurements of the bores on my block. Unfortunately I only have digital verniers and they're on the blink so didn't manage to get further than the first cylinder What I did find, however, was that at least one cylinder in this engine is well within spec. Once I've pulled the crank out I'll give the block a hone and remeasure to see where I stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I wouldn't trust very near calipers to measure the bores, get a decent calibrated internal micrometer and check them properly :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 You really want a proper bore gauge, and to measure at the top, middle and bottom, because the wear will probably be different at each point. Then draw a table and note down all the figures. Then repeat to make sure it's accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I using an internal bore gauge, top middle and bottom, then the vernier to read the measurement. Didn't make that very clear, my bad. As much as I'd like to use a bore micrometer I don't have one at home, so for a rough check at this stage the kit is fine. Once I've got things fully apart I'll be taking the block into the workshops at work to give everything a proper going over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 More track action from yesterday... This car is bloody impressive. Leather heated seats on, radio on, and still faster than the race cars, despite 4 year old tyres and smelly / overheated brake pads 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrayvon Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Love that you used your heated seats and radio! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I'm itching to get on track asap. Step closer today, my ecu has finally arrived after 5 weeks in waiting. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Honda could have had more finesse when writing the model number on it though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I very nearly bought an Audi RS2 today, that had been rear ended and written off, that was in New Zealand, that I would probably never have seen until I got back to the UK where I would have been shipping it to. I'm going to kick myself forever for not buying that, there will never be a cheaper one in any kind of fixable state anywhere in the world ever again http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/listing.aspx?id=1020871108&/listing?rfm=1 Make Richi Cry. How's that for a first world problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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