SamKidney Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 5 hours ago, dann2707 said: Honda could have had more finesse when writing the model number on it though Oi, my writing Tested the ecu on the car this afternoon. Plugged in nicely and even started the 1.4, albeit lumpy as its fueling for a DOHC 1.6. Means the deimmoblising has worked which should make the b16 plug and play once it's been dropped in! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Got home from work, cleaned my old sump out. Would make sense to baffle it whilst it's off the engine really, need to get the cardboard out and make some templates up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 2 hours ago, SamKidney said: Oi, my writing f**k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I went and saw the 924 club chairman tonight to collect some parts and for him to tweak my fuelling, finally my car runs without lumping all the bloody time! I got myself a front turbo valance (fibreglass but a good fit apparently), a spare dash which I can refurbish and fit when I have mine out to do the steering column bearings, some doors seals and an indicator housing that actually has its mountings on still...although the insides contained polythene and duct tape to hold the bulb in and 'reflect' light, so i'll rebuild it with one of my spare broken indicator housings. The indicator stuff is now in the dishwasher, ready to put together tomorrow when I get a moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 What did he tweak on the fuel system? I'm on good old K-jet just now, but it needs some cleaning/tweaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Just the fuel, he has a gas tester so we just kept upping the fuel until it stopped being so lumpy and it was only at 2.5, started at 2.1 which was pretty good for a guess using my nose at the exhaust as a my way of testing before It's amazing how such tiny adjustments makes such a difference to it all! I have rebuilt my entire K jet system, so if you need any help then let me know, it can be a swine at first but once you get your head around it then it can work very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 TTtdi Update: Just finished the pinout of the Golf's ecu and connectors (200+ pins!): However, the car is a PD115 engine, the guy I'm building the car for wants to temporarily put a PD130 turbo on to get it up and running until he saves for a big turbo. The PD115 ecu's aren't very mappable, so he wants to fit a PD130 ecu. Annoyingly, having compared the pinouts between the 2 ecu's, the PD130 has a few extra sensors, and several wires are in different places (the PD130 ecu is a lot more intelligent, and has a lot more map areas, so is more tuneable). The PD115 engine obviously doesn't have these additional sensors, and the PD130 ecu will be looking for them, so a PD130 engine needs to be fitted to get them talking to each other properly. That pretty much means I have wasted the last 3 nights doing a pin out on the PD115 ecu I am trying to convince him to just stick with the PD115 engine and ecu with the PD130 turbo for the short term (the PD115 ecu can be mapped for the PD130 turbo, but not really any higher). Its either that, or he needs to get a complete PD130 engine and loom, which is about £300 ish. Slightly annoying really, we both assumed they were the same engine, just with different turbos and injectors. It's not until you look into it further that these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Are pin outs not readily available for vag stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Going away with the Mrs this weekend for our 5th anniversary, which means I can't fit my new parts I've got a new ball joint to fit and new inner rods, which I'm hoping will solve my steering problems - I'm eager to get them fitted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 34 minutes ago, Danny said: Are pin outs not readily available for vag stuff? They are, but they are on wiring diagrams, so you have to transpose them onto a list like I have done. Bit of a ballache, but saves looking through pages of diagrams when you're sat trying to put pins in plugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Add it to his tab. Just another 3 crates he owes you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 2 hours ago, MadManMike said: Going away with the Mrs this weekend for our 5th anniversary, which means I can't fit my new parts I've got a new ball joint to fit and new inner rods, which I'm hoping will solve my steering problems - I'm eager to get them fitted! As if its been 5 years! I remember when you got together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 3 hours ago, Luke Rainbird said: Add it to his tab. Just another 3 crates he owes you. Already wangled some coilovers out of him, haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Good man! I'm doing somewhat random timed shifts at work this week, so just pulled the crank out from my block in the garage. All looks pretty tidy though I've not measured journals etc yet. Some very light wear on a couple of the main bearings but I don't think that's anything to be too concerned about after over 100k miles really. Once I've got new bearings sorted I will plastigauge everything anyway to make sure things are about right. Annoyingly though, when pulling out the last few bits to leave a completely bare block, it seems one of the oil squirter banjo bolts has been done up very tight and is slightly rounded (presumably when being overtightened on installation). Typically the last bolt to come out before I can take the block for a dip in the tank somewhere. Tried the old trick of knocking a slightly larger torx bit in but it's too shallow a head to get enough purchase on there, so going to have to hope some extractors/easy-outs will do the trick. Have PlusGassed it and will try to pick some up before I go to work this afternoon. Bah! Here's hoping it all goes back together a little more smoothly (jinxed it now, haven't I!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Is it aluminium or iron block? Lots of heat is your friend but then you knew that already. Chances are they would have been thread locked in and you need to break the glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 1 hour ago, dann2707 said: As if its been 5 years! I remember when you got together! I know, crazy shit! It's flown past, that's for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Engine is now shiny and only awaiting parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 2 hours ago, forteh said: Is it aluminium or iron block? Lots of heat is your friend but then you knew that already. Chances are they would have been thread locked in and you need to break the glue. Iron block, so heat will help. Need to find a spare bolt to replace it but the dealer wants £20 (they'll only sell it with the squirter) so will be trawling forums for a spare from a dead engine or similar. If it comes to it I'll make one. I'd expect thread lock, though none visible on the others. Only meant to be done to 27Nm so this one's definitely been overdone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Full copypasta: After finding the oil pump drive gear missing a tooth I started to look around the net to hunt down a replacement. I'd found one post on ASN a couple of years ago where someone had replaced the part, and a couple more from people who'd swapped one for the stock sprocket on a TFSI crank when building a stroker block up so I knew the part must be available however other than a couple of places that offered an aftermarket part for silly money I couldn't find one online. Gave VW a call, listing the part number on the sprocket (06A 105 209) however they couldn't find anything on the system other than a complete crankshaft with the cog on for ~£900. Clearly I wasn't going to pay that, so I called around a few other places (Seat and Skoda included) but had no joy at all. Eventually I got in touch with a place in the states who had the best price, though obviously that wasn't ideal. Before shipping, impor duty and VAT they were after around $40 or so. With that, an email from Audi came through telling me they'd had a message from VW asking them to look into it and get in touch with me if they could help. BINGO! Stock part for £18.80, result! I'll have to heat the old one up and get some pullers on there to remove, then similarly heat the new one before pressing it on. Fun times all round! Fast forward a little bit and I'd removed the main caps from the block so as to get to the crankshaft. Pleasantly surprised to see that the bearings were in pretty decent shape despite over 100k miles on them. I'll obviously be checking the crank for wear etc so ensure everything's within tolerance but I'm fairly confident things should be in order. With that out the way, the last thing to do was to pull out the oil squirters to leave a bare block to strip, paint and hone. Typically right before I finished up I found one more bolt that had been overtightened and mostly rounded off, this time the banjo that holds in #2 squirter. I'll have to get some easy outs on there and get rid of the bloomin' thing before I can progress any further. Need to track down another, but VW wanted £15 each which I'd rather not pay so if anyone out there has stripped a block and would be able to hook me up it'd be massively appreciated so please let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Generally as a rule of thumb if the crank looks in good shape with no obvious signs of wear it will be in tolerance. I ordered standard size bearings for my B16 before I'd measured the crank, and when I did the wear was very very minimal, almost non existent, which is as it should be considering in theory the two surfaces never touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Yeah visually it's in great shape, but as ever it's nice to check it all out properly. Would be silly not to really for the time and effort it takes; I'm in no mad rush to get it done quickly, just to get it done right. In unrelated news, I got home early from work and figured I'd sort out a little niggly issue. When I gave the front suspension an overhaul a few months back (coils, bushes, ball joints, sensors etc) I accidentally split the pad wear sensor wires. As a result, the ECU sees an open circuit and figures the pads have worn past their warning limit. Nice simple little system when it works but given the pads were fairly recent, I wasn't going to go switching them for fresh ones just to clear a light on the dash. Still, if all it entails is joining the wires again there's no major snag. Unfortunately my initial plan to simply crimp connect the remaining ends of the sensor wiring were scuppered when I took a closer look, as the wire had actually fractured inside the plastic connector. The fact this was flush with the plastic meant I couldn't even add a length of wire very easily as I'd have liked, which would have meant I could keep the stock connector and it'd have looked pretty inconspicuous. So, rather than removing the pins, having to drill out the set wires etc to replace with new I just hit the thing with a mallet to split the core out and was left with this. Stuck a length more wire in. Sealed it all up* and it's now back on the car, no light, no worries. Happy days, nice little 10 minute fix *Yeah, I'm aware it looks gash with the duck tape - will replace with some nicer heatshrink down the line but didn't have any the right size at home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Crimping/soldering obviously isn't your forte 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Ha, indeed. Closed off the tangs more before wrapping it up, but no soldering iron to play with. There's plenty of metal to metal contact so it'll do the job just fine until the proper replacement parts arrive for me to make a blanking plug. How goes the TTtdi engine dilemma? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 One mainly for @Adam@TartyBikes mainly - Daytona in the wet doing it's best "Rockingham in the wet" impression: Related, and almost pretty "Me at Cadwell-y" at 1:45: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 hi @tomturd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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