cwtrials

Anyone have a good solution for a M6 booster for the echo / gu frames with M6 brake mounts? All in all I really like the M6 setup. While m5 has always worked on my other bikes, I do like the extra stiffness and durability. But, I'm wanting to put a booster on. Drilling out a booster and getting longer bolts is fairly straightforward. But anyone have a good solution for spacers? Last time I had a gu frame with this setup I just had a giant stack of spacers, which was kinda clumsy.

Dude, this bike looks so amazing! For anyone who has seen Robbie ride, this bike is perfect, he's got a really smooth old / mid school style, and is also pretty tall. Can't wait to see it in action!!

Yeah, the MTB industry is very different than road, which has big organized teams. It's important to understand the difference between being a sponsored rider and a part of an actual time like in road. While many MTB sponsors may use the phrase "team", they're really not as their riders are not employed but rather promote their product for a certain level of perks (with a few exceptions of course). So in the MTB industry, you couldn't even enforce a minimum wage, because there is no one responsible. Industry wide it means that MTB racing, even at a high level is much more accessible to privateers and such. You can't make it to the podium in road without a team. But a good rider with a good bike can do well in mtb riding, even if you have to foot the bill. This isn't just a financial situation, but is reflected by the crazy team strategies needed in road, in road even the best rider in the world can't make it to the podium without a team. Switching to high level salary, contracted teams like road would be good for a few high end riders, but I don't think the industry would really be able to financially support it.

Snail cams seem to work for people under like 185 lbs. Heavier people universally hate them. (Or at least I do) I've sold frames I loved the geo on just to get something without snail cams.

That's just awesome!

You can still get 36 hole alex DX32's. It's not quite as side as modern rims, but they're strong and work nice

Remember the plazmatic rim coatings? Ha, that article is an awesome read I always wanted to grind a rim and then have it re-annodized. Since the anodize is so hard it should make it last a lot longer, but I don't think it's thick enough to round to edges significantly. Any engineery thoughts?

Nothing special, but not getting kicked out of this campus was reason enough to celebrate. https://www.instagram.com/p/CNBbaflJkZs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link edit: what's with embedding instagram videos. Didn't that use to work?

Awesome riding! I'm not really active on social media, so it's nice to see.

I tried it years ago, but on a +45 or something. It'd be interesting to try on a high bb modern bike, as the geo wouldn't be fighting the gearing nearly as much. It would take some retraining on anything with precise rotation timing, which was the thing I remember being the most difficult to get used to.

6 months and already dropping 4+ feet? That's pretty good man! It sounds like you just need to give it time. Just keep on riding and eventually the mental block will at least move to a higher level. Big drops are cool, but can legit mess you up if you get caught on the edge, as you continue to ride and develop extremely consistent drops you'll feel better about it.

If you get flats all the time, horizontal is the worst. Also, heavier riders (i.e. me) tend to complain about wheels moving about with quite a few of the horizontal tensioning options. With horizontal dropouts, no matter what style of tensioner I was adjusting the rear wheel a few times an hour to keep it centered. That being said, before the crewkerz style tensioner, vertical dropout tensioning systems all had something working against them

I'm actually US based . So that works nicely

So, I know one of the new fancy pants cranksets would be super awesome, but I bought this trialtech sport lite splined crankset when they were first released, and it's been real good to me. My only complaint is the bashrings. I've broken one, and the other has bent back and forth a few times. Occassionally I've bent it too much to ride and need to go home and straighten it out. But lucky for me I've had a Trialtech Ti half bashring in my parts bin forever. (actually it was one of the whole double sided ti ones, but I chopped off one side). So with a dremel, a file, and wayyyy more time than it should've taken I notched in some splines so it would fit on the crankset. Looks pretty sharp too!

Bumping this thread. I've had three Marino's built in the past, and still have one. I'm looking to have a new frame made up. In the past it took about 3-7 months to get a frame from Marino and communication was dreadful. I've actually tried emailing, but am yet to get a response. Looking to have a steel pure trials frame made up. I'm a bit nervous to use a builder that hasn't made a trials frame before. Any new recommendations on builders? This is going to be a pretty drastic change in geo, so I'm not wanting to spend a ton of money on what could be a gamble.

I hated those freewheels. When I first got into trials I couldn't afford a chris king hub and front freewheel wasn't really accessible. I used to buy shimano deore hubs for like $12 each online, and break one every month or so. The axles tended to break. Learned to build wheels fast. The old freehubs has problems with the axles, but newer ones are pretty beefed up. That being said. I think a quality freehub like a Hope or I9 and also decent freewheels are going to be pretty dependable, so breaking one for most people is either going to be hypothetical or one of the those weird rare things. Freewheels are a bit more cost effective. I'm 230 lbs and ride like a sack of bricks and can't remember the last time I broke a freewheel or freehub.

ha, well that just makes sense!

A few weeks ago I was having a really good day and managed to consistently tap something a wall that was about the highest I've ever got up, a few inches above bar height, and even managed to get in a messy but legit hook. It felt awesome. Next ride was more normal and I couldn't tap much of anything. Honestly, I don't think I'm putting enough time on the bike these days to really learn new things.

The combination of unbelievable riding and crazy scenery is surreal.

That's a really good looking bike!

I messaged Aurelien and asked, he said his highest tap was on Koxx a super long time ago about 155cm edit: But no video, so didn't happen?

That's just ridiculous. This thread is pretty much the best.

Hey guys, I'm not normally too into doing drills or special training techniques. Normally I just ride. But I'm really wanting to improve my front wheel use and I know I'm going to need to spend some time working on it specifically. I know taps and up to fronts are different, but I feel generally getting the front wheel to hit exactly where you want on the wall is kind of similar. However I may be completely mistaken, so feel free to correct me. On taps, I can on good days do them consistently, but never on anything higher than a normal up to rear. Typically however, I tend to pull up too much and avoid the wall entirely or just barely touch it. Similarly on ups to front I tend to way over shoot, instead of hitting it like I should. Anyone have any drills / techniques / or ways of rethinking things that helped them? For sake of conversation, it doesn't need to be specifically for my skill level, since I'm sure other people need to work on this too. -Cheers

I was never really a fan of Onza, but they did a good job of producing gateway bikes at a decent price range.

at 11 seconds. Drew Fortner's curb frontflip. He used the curb slamming into the back tire to initiate the rotation. Besides being a cool dude, I'm not sure I've ever heard of anyone else doing this in trials or bmx.