Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Yeah, need longer breakers as my current 1/2" one is only ~20" long. That said, if things are looked after they shouldn't need much more really. Shame they never are! Impact gun would be nice too. Typically it was lovely and dry/sunny yesterday, and now I have one remaining pain in the arse bolt it's pissing down today. Kinda negates all the penetrant I threw in there yesterday, last night and this morning! Heat is going to be the only other way as no room for grinder really, Ash. Else yeah, I'll have to get creative really. Subframe would let me fit the new ARB though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Alas I'm still too poor to afford decent mods but I did manage to sort the rear wiper problem......by removing it Is that one you bond in? Been looking to do it to mine, but was looking at one of the threaded/removable one, as i know what my MOT tester is like.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Someone bought a proper sheddy J reg Eunos to the meet last night, it's for sale. It's red, like mine, except it's not - it's pink and rather shit looking. Someone has clearly used different rattle cans on it and probably polished it using sand paper. Suspension knackered, LOADS of creaks. Interior is a mess, standard Daisy wheels with the worst black spray job ever. Open the bonnet, leaks galore - CAS O-Ring, Cam cover gasket both clearly gone. Quick test drive shows that the clutch / gearbox is on the way out - lots of squeaks and it's hard to get in gear. "So, how much are you looking for?" "£1,000" LOL. I paid £925 for mine, it's not perfect but it's a million times better than that. However, it does have a Mazdaspeed roll bar, so I said he should sell that to me for £100 and it won't affect the sale price on the car. He agrees. All being well, I should be picking up and fitting the roll bar in the next few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Impact, lubrication, heat and brute force. Welcome to Dating Tips with your host, Ash Kennard. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 So a metric f**kton of penetrant, blowtorch and a mains powered, 1000W impact gun have made precisely no difference. That thing is stuck in there tight.Question is, do I drop the subframe (new steering rack and ARB bushes en route...) or try and get in there with a grinder and cut through the existing bush ad bolt (tight on space, not sure there's enough room)? To me it seems the former makes the most logical sense, but I've never dropped a subframe before so not too sure how much I can cock it up. That said, I've never pulled all the suspension etc to bits before either. There's nothing like the deep end to teach you to swim, right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Impact driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.KYDD Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Car people. Your help is needed I'm very shortly going to have around £1500 (+/- £100) to spend on a diesel estate Thoughts on this? http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508115975096 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Tried a breaker bar, Luke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Impact driver. So a metric f**kton of penetrant, blowtorch and a mains powered, 1000W impact gun have made precisely no difference. Tried a breaker bar, Luke? Indeed - managed to get hold of 6ft of scaffold pole and gave it a whirl first thing. No joy, unfortunately. Cutting/grinding the bolt is going to be the only way to get it out of there now really. Extremely frustrating, especially since it's the last bloomin' bolt that needs to shift before I can rebush and reassemble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 there's nothing to dropping and/or putting it back Luke, ive done it when changing arb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Did you get the bolt really glowing? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Yeah? So 4 main subframe bolts, 4 on the steering rack and that's about all that I need to be conscious of when getting going? If I leave the track rods attached at the hubs can I undo the rack from the SF as I drop it (using trolley jack) to save having to reconfigure all that lot? Will be getting tracking done in the near future anyway so I guess it's not the end of the world to remove though. Edit; And droplinks, obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) yeah, just as you said. well, dogbone mount and exhaust mount aswell, but yeah. Edited August 13, 2015 by MartMini 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 That is impressive - I've never encountered a bolt so stuck before! Hope you can get it sorted the 'deep end' way...! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 If you can't get it off with a big bar, an impact driver won't do bugger all (especially a battery/electric one, judging by the 1000w). Dropping the subframe is easy enough (besides the fact its pretty weighty). Its much easier with the LCR's "under the shaft" setup, because on the "shaft loop" setups, the bar always gets caught up over the shaft, so needs to be wriggled about...not the easiest of things to do while wrestling a 30-40kg slab of metal about, whilst laying on your back! If you undo the 4 steering rack bolts, it will just hang there, held by the steering column joint and track rods. No need to undo anything other than that, steering wise. The only things you need to undo are the following: 4x 21mm subframe bolts 4x 13mm steering rack bolts 2x 13mm dogbone mount to subframe bolts 2x 16mm dogbone mount to gearbox bolts 2x 13mm exhaust hanger mount bolts 3x 13mm balljoint to hub nuts (per side) 1x 19mm droplink nut (per side) The whole subframe (with wishbones should then drop down, ready for swapping whatever you need to over. I'd certainly be doing that before attacking it with a grinder...make that your last ditch attempt! Also, use 6 point sockets if you can. Will get more far more grip than 12 points, which will just round the bolt if you aren't on it 100% square. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Spot on, thanks George. Looks like I'll be heading out into the pissing rain again shortly then Edit; TF sweepstake for how many of these bolts are seized too?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 One. The last one. Good luck! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 The 21mm subframe ones are f**king tight...good luck! Make sure you do them back up equally as tight, or you'll get clunking under braking/acceleration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Is that was it says in the manual? "Torque: f**king tight." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 After the one I've been trying for the past 24 hours they weren't too bad. I had been spraying them a fair bit too though for when I eventually got round to it.Anyway, subframe dropped:Other end of the offending bolt which will be ground off. I'll probably slice the head of the bolt now that there's room to pull the rest out of the top, as it's a touch more accessible.Original vs replacement ARB:Far easier than reading forums/my general impressions of the job had led me to believe - half an hour from being sat on the sofa reading up on how to do it to being sat back on the sofa posting this It's a shame I don't have another week or two really - could have got my hands on a cat back setup and put new turbo, mani and exhaust on while the subframe's out. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Wheyyy! Reminds me of when i first did my lower arms. This was an 'advisory' on the MOT when i got the car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Yikes, nasty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Is that one you bond in? Been looking to do it to mine, but was looking at one of the threaded/removable one, as i know what my MOT tester is like.. Yeah it's a glass bung, just glued it in with some sikaflex to keep it nice and watertight. Shouldn't make a difference on an mot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) New dash installed everything working as it should now at last. Need to have a play around with it but i think all need an extra harness for oil pressure ect displayed. Dyno run puts the car at 250bhp so happy with that also with a measly 170lbft. Excuse the messy pic need to get something made up to hold the dash in place and can rip out half the wiring for the old s2000 dash and convertor. Was hoping to make another track day this month but heading on holiday with the misus so think thatll be it for this year unless weather keeps up the sunshine. Still few parts at home to fit and oil change to do. Edited August 13, 2015 by greg1040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Don't stop just because it gets a bit miserable, winter track days are the best! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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