CurtisRider Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Are you sure you cleaned them well enough? There may have been contaminants on the surface you painted, paint doesn't need much of an excuse to come off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 The primer has stuck just fine though - it's the paint chipping / flaking off the primer. Which makes me think I let the primer dry too much, so the paint couldn't stick properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Mapping booked for 2nd October...eek! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 The £250 MX-5 is in for MOT... fingers crossed... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 The primer has stuck just fine though - it's the paint chipping / flaking off the primer. Which makes me think I let the primer dry too much, so the paint couldn't stick properly. What did you sand the primer with before colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Well, there's my answer... lol, oops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Binnnggoooo. Anything around 600-800 by hand on primer is the perfect key for base and lacquer. On solid colours you can go down lower to 400/500, but there ain't really no need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 The £250 MX-5 is in for MOT... fingers crossed... Boo, needs a brake hose changing and a bit of welding doing. Not bad though... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Binnnggoooo. Anything around 600-800 by hand on primer is the perfect key for base and lacquer. On solid colours you can go down lower to 400/500, but there ain't really no need. Awesome, cheers. How long do I need to leave the primer before giving it the hand job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Boo, needs a brake hose changing and a bit of welding doing. Not bad though...Define 'bit' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I can get my hand in the hole Need to get it in the air to have a good look... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Bit lol. Big gaping hole more like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I can get my hand in the hole Need to get it in the air to have a good look... Wasn't that a Dann∞ quote from the Tindr thread? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Was thinking that as I wrote it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Awesome, cheers. How long do I need to leave the primer before giving it the hand job? Depends on quite a bit, how thick your primer is, conditions, what primer. Doing what your doing thou I'd prime them then leave 3/4 hours if your using aerosol grey primer. No megascience too it, just till it's dry enough in all the nooks and crannies to flat back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Wife's car shat itself on the way home today... Got there to find no coolant in it and a puddle underneath. Towed it home in the sketchyest fashion ever and topped it up with boiling water and it seems to start and idle ok but definitely a leaking rad at the very least. Going to give it a run and see if it drives ok and all being well will get it booked in for a new rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Manifold and ecu won't be happening until at least next week now so I've had a play with the ITBs as from the reading ive been doing it should run pretty smoothly on the basemap. The map works off the TPS sensor as against the original map sensor it uses with a oe manifold. Traced the wiring back and found a dodgy earth, 1 issue resolved. Disconnected the battery and rotated the TPS sensor clockwise a few degrees to see if it made a difference. Started the car, left it to idle. It instantly sounded healthier, and I've just been for a little drive and gone the whole way with no misfires, no clouds of unburnt fuel and a lovely fast smooth response wherever my foot is on the loud pedal. ITBs may be staying... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hopped in the truck today to go town, clutch barely works, right front wheel isn't very attached, bulkhead seems to have moved forward so the passenger door won't shut right and everything smells like burning gear oil. What the f**k has happened. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Driven nearly 5000miles in the last 3-4 weeks, car now has an increasingly worse rattle coming from the inlet area (suspect dicky injector/seal or pump), is less and less keen to start (needs glow plugs, a new set of boost hoses and a damn good clean out at the very least) but I'm dead pleased that we should be reaching our intended destination today all being well! Driving pretty well the entire continent in a figure of 8 and only needing a couple of minor repairs is amazing going for a 1992 Toyota that's probably never seen an MOT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 So after my concerns about my radiator fan not working on the Astra, it turns out my thermostat is stuck open and has failed as the car sits at 60 degrees most of the time (they don't have temp gauges, I found out you can access the temp via a menu hidden on the radio settings). Easy enough job, I had read of people spending over 4 hours to do this...took me 30 mins. Annoyingly VX decided to make a housing that couldn't be taken apart to just change the thermostat, so this aftermarket Circoli unit costs £35 vs £5 for a normal stat! Now to get my air conditioning charged and maybe i'll have a car that works properly again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Just went round to my pal from Burton to pick up some valve stem seals, got chatting and he was taking the piss out of me for not 'at least putting rings in it' with my rebuild, to which I pointed out that it's impossible to get standard rings for an Essex anymore. "Yeah, that's because the only set in the world are on my desk - i've hidden them away for years. Andy burton's in tomorrow, i'll ask if you can have 'em" The b*****d. Looks like we're going all the way with it, big end bearings will be the only original part left and there's bugger all reason to leave them alone if the rest has been done. £££. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I must ask how it really constitutes a rebuild if you weren't going to be changing the rings or big ends? Haha. Surely that's just a strip down and reassemble of old parts Good work on finding the rare rings though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 So I bought a new Relentless manifold for the hybrid turbo, they sent the wrong one and I ended up with a nice shiny ceramic model instead of the uncoated one I ordered. No biggy, free upgrades are all good etc. Turns out my name was put into a draw to win their money back and I won, so I've ended up with it for free. Sweet shit. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I must ask how it really constitutes a rebuild if you weren't going to be changing the rings or big ends? Haha. Surely that's just a strip down and reassemble of old parts Good work on finding the rare rings though! The shells are fine and have loads of life left in them and rings for a standard engine are non-existent, so it's got everything else it could have had. It's a top end rebuild out of necessity, really - had new cam bearings, fast road cam, followers, springs, valve guides, stem seals, re-done the valve seats, skimmed the heads, new/ rebuilt pumps, recon distributor, leads, plugs, recon starter, rebuilt carb, flowed the inlet, steel timing gear, all core plugs, new spigot bearing and decent gaskets throughout so not quite just a strip, check and reassemble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Phoned H-Tune today to ask about some of the details regarding the basemap my chips running in my ECU. They said at idle the TPS signal should read 0.4v. The ecu uses a 5v reference to see where the throttle is and fuels the engine accordingly. I tested mine at idle and was sending a reference of nearly 1.5v which meant the fueling was going to be well out. After some playing about i managed to get it to 0.4v at idle as told by H-Tune. Different car, so much smoother, uses nowhere near as much fuel. Just driven the same journey I did on Tuesday morning and it's used less than a quarter of a tank. Winninnnn I want it mapped, soon 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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