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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Having been back and forth again with work not being able to make their mind up as to where I should be, I grabbed half an hour on the world's slowest engine work today. What should realistically be a long weekend's work is taking forever haha!

Block has been sat a few weeks, so first thing to do was to clean up the section I was working with:

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Grabbed a water pump to fill the hole:

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Pulled the studs out of the exhaust side of the head:

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Had a very quick/crude look to get an idea how much room I'll have for the adapter etc. Shouldn't need anything toooooooo thick:

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Touch tight at the intake but once there's an adapter in the mix that'll be fine:

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Cleaned up another sump - this one has an oil level sensor fitting which the original AYP doesn't. Picked it up cheap locally but it was a state so it's been scrubbed, carb-cleanered and now "degreased". Unfortunately I got caught in the act this time and had a bit of a telling off!

Gave the rocker cover and oil filter housing a quick once over while I was at it. All looking much better now.

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Have been working on a few little bits in the background too. All slow but steady progress. CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) becomes CAD (Computer Aided Design).

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I have a 3" flange K04 flange if you want it? Or are you planning to go 3.5"?

You can clock the compressor housing a touch to gain a bit of room to the inlet, but don't go too far, because it will then hit the bulkhead. You'll also need a "strategic dent" around the steering column knuckle bulge in the bulkhead (Y)

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1 hour ago, george_seamons said:

I have a 3" flange K04 flange if you want it? Or are you planning to go 3.5"?

You can clock the compressor housing a touch to gain a bit of room to the inlet, but don't go too far, because it will then hit the bulkhead. You'll also need a "strategic dent" around the steering column knuckle bulge in the bulkhead (Y)

Cheers for the offer/info dude. I'm hoping to go 3.5" DP into a 3" cat back system so will turn down the kind offer though. Strategic dent I can deal with, and by the time there's ~20mm of adapter in there I think there should be room for intake pipework but if needs be it can be clocked as you say. 

Not one to worry about now, but it's there much to be said for the compressor silencer delete kits etc that are available? Hopefully have workshop access again soon and wouldn't be hard to knock something up. 

 

Another quick moment grabbed this morning. I'm going away again for a couple of weeks so wanted to get a tad more done before heading off but got cut a little shorter than I'd have liked.

Had a sheared bolt in the crank pulley. Removed it, fitted pulley with new crank bolt.

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Stuck the (now cleaner) sump on to keep things a little more protected. Not sealed up as I suspect I'll be pulling this again before I'm done.

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Reason for using this one rather than the other:

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Killed another 1/2-3/8" adapter. Really should just grab a few new metric 1/2" sockets haha.

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In vaguely related news.

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Noticed that one of the rear wheel bearings of my Mondeo MK3 (2002) is messed up. Got myself a very good deal on SKF ones for 50€ each. At 176.000km I might as well change both sides. Since I have to take off the brakes, I decided to change the discs and pads as well as they have worn down considerably. ATE discs and pads for the rear axle for only 100€. I should write in the "happy thread" with this. Will swap the parts on the next weekend.

I love my Mondeo. Its a 2.5L V6 170hp fueled by LPG gas (KME Nevo) so it's very cheap and durable. Parts don't cost too much either (as the example from above shows).

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Food for thought and opinions, switching to coilovers today on the renault 5, they are from a vw lupo(nearly the same as mk1, just a touch wider so will need to be washer'd. But! the suspension on these pretty much goes
top hat
rubber donut
huge looseball bearing(mine are obliterated)
spring top plate
.... and so on
My thought, is how much of a necessity is the bearing, for me, i feel it has little function, as im driving with both blown apart with little to no affect?
 

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I'm going to pretend I didn't read that lol This is why non car people shouldn't try and mod their car. Ring your insurance and ask how they're cool with that. Oh and also ask physics whilst you're there haha.

 

I'm doing this in August with some car mates, properly can't wait and it's spread out over 5 days :D

 

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Edited by dann2707
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Have you got a closer view of the Wales bit?  Just want to make sure you're not f**king that up 'cos at the moment it looks like you're missing out on some really f**king good roads in lieu of driving down a pretty boring stretch of the A483?  Similarly, on your way to the Evo triangle from Anglesey it looks like you're just taking the A5, whereas if you drop down a bit onto the A4086 you'll get to do stuff like this, rather than sitting behind some pensioners doddering around on some fairly standard A-roads:

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Similarly, when you're heading from the Triangle towards Mid Wales, if you double back on yourself a bit and head to Ffestiniog then take the B4391, you'll get about 40 miles of this*:

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...and this:

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This is the map of when I was driving those roads:

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If you took that A4086 road I mentioned up there, you'd be coming in from the top left of that map through Llanberis, and getting to the end of that A4086 road where the "A498" dot is.  Then you'd just cut up there to the A5, go along, do the Evo Triangle, then you can either cut through on this little B-road that goes from the end of the triangle down towards Snowdonia again, or take the A5 back towards the start of the Triangle at Pentrefoelas.  This then allows you to connect up to the B4391 road I showed you up there pretty much between the two blobs just above the 'Snowdonia National Park' label.  You can then stick a left and follow the B4391 down past the "9 Station Rd" blob, and on and on down to the bottom right of the map where you'd re-join the A483 you'd originally planned to go down.  When you get to Newtown, if you turn off and head towards Llandrindod Wells rather than going to Llanidloes and Rhayader you'll drive a f**king awesome 23 mile stretch, which then links in to even more fun roads that would continue on down to S. Wales.

Unless you specifically need to go to Swansea you can also do some diagonal roads that would join you back up nearer Cardiff/Newport way on some nice twisty A-roads over the tops.

#justsaying

 

*This bit of road had a really good mix of stuff on it, I just grabbed a photo 'cos it's picturesque as f**k.  Visibility is really good everywhere, so even if you found someone else there overtaking is easy.  I saw 2 other cars in 60 miles around that area though so it's no biggie.  Also, no police cars, speed cameras or anything like that along there too.

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Turns out that the coilovers run fine, changed the spring to the up spring ratio for more lows and better ride, but now it needs notching.

No bearings in use whatsoever. Steering feels fine, no creaks, bangs, knocks and so on.

I asked physics and i broke them.

Coilovers had to be reamed out to fit
No standard spring top plate(just the coilover one obviously) 

No bearings, and not that the bearings has any affect on the car before i did this, i must of found 2 ball  bearings in total, with the cups bent to f**kery.

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Now im home i can sort of explain i guess...

The bearing on the standard strut is a bigger diameter than the coil top cap retainer thing, so using the same r5 bearing is not an option.

The standard style vw bearing that sits ontop of the shock, wont do a single thing, as these arent designed for this type of topmount..... so nor is that a viable option.
 

The spring now is going to want to 'jump' as this is twisting, so self centring will be more aggressive if i let go of the wheel, but i have gotten used to this, driving the car with blown bearings nonetheless.
I think if i buy a adjustable topmount, this will sort it out? as far as i am aware they have bearings in the assembly. Because the renault ones are rare as rocking horse shit, im going to either have to use a clio set, or look at getting the main plate cnc'd to fit the 5, and use the rest of a adjustable topmount assembly to sort it out.

 

EDIT: strike all that, i think i have been a wizard and thought of a solution! 
Ill tinker tomorrow!

Edited by TROYston
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Those adjustable top mounts do tend to have bearings in them but not the same kind as what normal types have and will be more susceptible to wear unless covered/maintained regularly. .

I went to Porsche 92Forty yesterday (Celebration of the 40th anniversary of the 924)and it was really good. For some reason Ronan Keating was there and he parked his Mercedes in the middle of the display cars, his car was promptly moved on! My car and I enjoyed 60mins around some bits of Silverstone, it responded well to it all which made me feel quite happy that all the work I have put into it isn't a waste! The instructors commented that my engine was more perky than the others and they were surprised my self built suspension was so good compared to stock. My brakes were a bit smokey after each 20min session though, but i'm assuming that is fairly normal as they were getting used rather heavily. It did give me the bug to go again, although more ooomph is needed!

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Also just because I'm not sure where else to post this (and it's going to be used for car stuff) I thought I'd show one of my bits of bodge tool making that i'm working on. For some reason I wanted a knife grinder, It might be because they look a bit mad but otherwise i'm not entirely sure why as I don't make knives... I do however want a belt grinder for smoothing edges of steel, profiling tubes, etc. A normal belt sander is usually too wide and a linisher tends to have short belts that get very hot too quickly then snap, so I wanted something a little better and for little to no money as it's not really an essential tool right now. Typically these knife grinders seem to be available in the states and the belts aren't really available over here so I found the closest I could that was readily available off the shelf. I recycled most of the stuff on this so far, the motor is from a water pump from the bath that came with my house, the alloy pulley is from a very decrepit belt sander i was given years ago that was totally worn out, the frame materials are all reclaimed from old desks that i've pulled apart, the longboard wheels were £10 and the belts were £1 each! 

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The front can be adjusted to different angles, and also extended forwards if longer belts are to be used. I now need to make the main frame secure to the motor mounting frame, fit a tensioning spring (I think I have something suitable somewhere), I have a damper from my old Saabs auxiliary belt tensioner with will smooth everything out. I also need to incorporate some sort of alignment so that the belt can be adjusted side to side, as well as a bed on the tilting head so that the belt has something to rest against when something is pressed against it. Finally a switch will be added with possibly a work light too just because I have one handy.

I've also been making a disc sander for the wood workshop but I'm having issues getting the disc to run true so I'll need to find a new pulley and try again! Fortunately I haven't finished fitting the table yet so I can work around that.

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Thought i'd update with a few little things i'm working on at the moment. 
 
I'm planning on polybushing the anti roll bar drop links on the rear whiteline one with these. They're pretty damn solid compared to the rubber ones you get with the RARB. My only gripe is that they're for M8 threaded rod whereas my drop links are M10. 
 
I tried drilling them out today and not a chance! They just conform to the shape of the drill. Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve it? Thinking maybe melting it bigger or simply taking the droplink off and threading it on as it probably would go on.
 
27104063772_05c4c28de8_b.jpg20160523_203054 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
 
Secondly, I received some centre caps (£4.99 delivered) for the team dynamics. They look absolutely garbage on as seen but i'm thinking of fitting these to it   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Renault-emblem-60mm-wheel-center-cap-sticker-logo-badge-wheel-trims-Carbon-/191874408802?hash=item2cac9b2162:g:3l4AAOSwo6lWGX1n
 
What do people think?
 
27131189771_d4eae7f6b5_b.jpg20160522_180049 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
27131196231_a12ca2aaa5_b.jpg20160523_203126 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
 
Next! I removed the runners on my seats a few months back and it's made the seats absolutely solid. There's no sideway flex at all now which is awesome. As a result though i'm low as f**k. Really really low. So my Dad got me some alu from work and I drilled new holes in it today for the seat sidemounts to sit on to raise me. I've got 4 of those so I can raise myself 20mm in total which should be ideal.
 
26925354180_569e809c4c_b.jpg20160523_203317 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
 
Finally, I had a thought last week that i'd like to extend the gearstick below the pivot point to shorten the throw. The BMS shifter does this by cutting it in half and welding some tube on and bending the stick but I want something that I don't have to get welded or bending the stick. I wanted to create something so you can fine tune the throw of the gearstick, along with the angle of it.
 
The idea is pretty simple, it involves some stainless tubing and a bit of measuring.
 
 
OD = 18mm
ID = 12mm (original dia rod is 11.95mm)
Wall thickness = 3mm 
 
26925353270_f335deb641_b.jpg20160523_203245 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
 
This is the idea, it will shorten the throw and also bring the gearstick closer to the driver, the standard position is WAY too close to the radio. The original gearstick will be cut in half.
 
26925335290_90c6ea600d_b.jpg20160519_164626 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
The rod will have 4 x M5 tapped threads, with grub screws and locking nyloc nuts to hold the two parts of the rod
 
27166536046_78f5413d79_b.jpg20160523_203235 by dann2707, on Flickr
 
 
With the grub screws being held in by nylocs it shouldn't be an issue. 
 
If anyone can see any problems that might arise, would be great if you could shout. Thanks :)
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1 hour ago, dann2707 said:
Stuff and things

I don't really have any input for that, but just wanted to see if you'd seen my post about your route through Wales?  No worries if you have and you're not interested, just didn't know if you'd missed it (Y)

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5 minutes ago, Mark W said:

I don't really have any input for that, but just wanted to see if you'd seen my post about your route through Wales?  No worries if you have and you're not interested, just didn't know if you'd missed it (Y)

Hey man yes I did see that but I was at a party Saturday and didn't get chance to read it properly! I didn't mean to ignore you sorry haha. I will reply properly tomorrow when I'm on the computer. Cheers mate

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Civic is still running. Definitely using a tad too much fuel but that's being sorted. Engine seems really healthy otherwise. I dropped the 5w30s id been running it on at Curborough and replaced it with fully synth 10w40 and it's much happier. Zero oil consumption now. 5w30 just gets too thin for these engines when it's given some grief. 

I had a play with a Megane Sport on the way home tonight, I won. Stopped and had a chat with him as we both ended up at Tesco Express and he was really sound. He seemed very surprised that my engine is only a 1.6! 

His car was ridiculously clean, like OCD levels of clean. Makes me want to get mine in for paint asap 

Edited by SamKidney
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