AdamR28 Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 'Almost scraped'. We would need to know exactly how much clearance there was to make a full judgement here... My point is that Mike's car is too low IMO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 2 hours ago, Danny said: You might wanna flush all the radweld junk before you put the new radiator in Yeah I have some flush stuff here, fortunately most of it seems to have fallen out of the radiator holes along with the coolant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 8 hours ago, CurtisRider said: Aren't they copper? The one I had a go at was ally and I blew a hole in it faster than you can say 'shiii...'. I had already bought and fitted a replacement so that was just playing to see what would happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 This weekend is gonna be mega. Finally going to see everything come together! Collect the Coupe tomorrow night, picking up a rear bumper and smooth (no spoiler) boot lid en route from Castleford. Saturday I'm collecting a facelift bonnet, front bumper and headlights. Sunday will allow me to get all the panels on temporarily, and to get the engine in now that I have a clutch sorted. Once I'm back from Dublin I can wire it all up and fingers crossed, start it up. If all that goes well its only a clutch line, top radiator hose and a radiator to complete it. Then paint! And fit BGW.... any tips on making some kid of subtle yet mildly effective front splitter? If I can find my camera I'll get photos, Ive given up even trying with my phone now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Some pics of the M3 from last week. The chassis appears to be in better condition than we all expected. Still going to be a shitload of work... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Looking good, Alex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 I think perhaps I caused some confusion. Yes, the Eunos was too low to get in to the garage. The Golf had the Eunos wheels in the boot and almost scraped, but didn't. The entrance to the garage wasn't really my beef anyway, it was more to do with the "computer says no" attitude of the people in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 I have the coupe. Few hours sleep here at the Fathers then back on the road early doors to beat the M62 rush hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) On 12/1/2016 at 8:02 AM, SamKidney said: If I can find my camera I'll get photos, Ive given up even trying with my phone now. Please find camera, it doesn't get much less interesting than a loose description of parts you're collecting for a Honda project Edited December 2, 2016 by Jolfa 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 One picture. I wont bore you all with every step photos because the quality really isnt worth wasting your eyesight on. K20 in its new home. Shift cables and shifter in, clutch in, B series outer CV joints on, shafts swapped side to side (change the inner CVs), Yellow Speeds on, Function 7 LCA's on, Hardrace rear camber arms on, Skunk2 front camber arms on, EK4 throttle cable, matrix hoses, bonnet, lights, bumper. Not much more now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 On 30/11/2016 at 7:56 PM, Greetings said: Some pics of the M3 from last week. The chassis appears to be in better condition than we all expected. Still going to be a shitload of work... Are you going to sort out the gear lever? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 I sure hope you all like my latest before and after. Cleaned my engine bay for the first time last night. To fill it with an engine nkwst Need To 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 8 hours ago, Pashley26 said: Are you going to sort out the gear lever? You've got a good memory The answer is YES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Took the crank pulley off the mx5 to track down the wobble. It looks like someone has been here before, though I can't tell exactly what they've used to bond/weld the gear to the crank. I couldn't get a puller behind the gear to confirm that the 'fix' was still solid, so I just put it all back together. (the cracked backing on the gear wasn't me) I'm kinda hoping that the slight wobble is due to the gear not being perfectly straight. I'll just run it, it may have been like this for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted December 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Went on a Christmas treasure hunt with the owners club today, lots of slippery country lanes and accidental sideways stuff... Great fun! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 6 hours ago, Pete.M said: Took the crank pulley off the mx5 to track down the wobble. It looks like someone has been here before, though I can't tell exactly what they've used to bond/weld the gear to the crank. I couldn't get a puller behind the gear to confirm that the 'fix' was still solid, so I just put it all back together. (the cracked backing on the gear wasn't me) I'm kinda hoping that the slight wobble is due to the gear not being perfectly straight. I'll just run it, it may have been like this for years. I would say that the gunk is just dried loctite. Easy to get the pulley off though, get a steel plate with two holes in to suit the diametrically opposite tapped holes, chuck a spacer into the pulley (a socket will do) and use a couple of set pins in the threaded holes to draw the pulley off the shaft; as it comes off, add washers between the spacer and the plate to take up the slack. If it were wobbling on a worn keyway / shaft / pulley I would expect it to be able to be pulled off by hand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 It looks pretty solid - the pulley itself might wobble a bit as it's rubber mounted, that's fine. The main thing to check is the keyway in the crank nose itself, as long as the key is tight into the slot and there's no evidence of flaring / cracking, it's fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Another piss poor photo.. We're getting there. I got given a Tegiwa S2000 alloy radiator with the engine back in October so Ive been looking at how it could work out. I think I can make it happen. The upper outlet meets the OEM K series hose perfectly, but the lower one is on the wrong side. A cut B series lower hose would do the job perfectly, BUT I think I'll be taking it across to the fabricators tomorrow and asking them to re-weld the outlet on the correct side and allow me to use the OEM K series lower rad hose too. Ive aimed for this build to be as OEM as I can to retain its Honda reliability. Got a clutch line made up (barely visable) using the original clutch line flexi pipe. Flexi out of the brakcet, flipped round the opposite way so it aims towards the gearbox side, new pipe from clutch master cylinder to flexi, new pipe from flexi to slave cylinder. The induction set up is made up of an AEM coupling, a butchered B series AEM long arm (given to me for nothing with the car, and already cut), the OEM rubber intake pipe and an old filter I had from my B swap. Fits nicely, serves a purpose and cost f**k all! IT MOVED UNDER ITS OWN POWER FOR THE FIRST TIME TONIGHT 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Is that not the same photo? This project is getting a bit Dann270779 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 I'm going to look at a Megane 225 tonight. So excited! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 I own a Peugeot 306 that cost me $300 because the brake servo was leaking and the garage quoted $2000+ to fix it. It was just the little boot on the pedal side was split, other than that it just needs some bulbs and maybe a rack end for MOT, once again total cost of repairs will be sub $100, love this town it looks almost identical to that, but it does have a badboy exhaust (that I kinda wanna put on the Audi ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 That one looks a bit more Australian. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Did some work on the shitcelica today. first job was to drill out the snapped arb mount bolt. Center punched it, then went through larger and larger drill bits. I center punched it slightly off, so when the drill hole got close to the threads, i tried to collapse the remains of the bolt. The first decent hit with a hammer tore all the tack welds off the nut. I ended up cutting the end of the mount off, which is big enough to get a 13mm nut in there. I decided to press the rear lower arm front bushes in. MK4 front caliper carriers were perfect shape as spacers! Things were going well, so i decided to look at why it's always been difficult to fill up the fuel tank. It felt like there was a blockage in the filler neck, so i took the rubber joining hose off from between the tank and the filler neck. That explains a lot! it looks like there was a plastic hose reducer/expander in the fuel line. (f**k knows how it got there!) Behind it is a plastic valve, which as far as i can tell it seems to work as an anti-siphon device and fuel baffle. Dropping off all the suspension bushes to @Alex Dark to get them machined down to work correctly, and picking up the new sub frame Friday. Finally some decent progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 A few guys came over to strip the car using dry ice. The result isn't perfect, the chap who's idea it was is now stuck with finishing the job using an angle grinder Carbon-kevlar roof should be arriving very soon, can't wait I'll post some pictures when it arrives, some of you guys might be interested in their products. They make CF or kevlar reinforced carbon parts for a variety of cars, they're cheap and so far the quality has been amazing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Oh Hi there my new purchase 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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